GS2006

http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Por...pt#257,2,Slide 2

Check this out. Something very similar, except I would prefer a 1/8” flat steal plate welded to the pin with the hockey puck stuck to the steal plate with adhesive.
Grove is only for safety alignment and actually might be better if it is only 1/8” deep instead of ¼”. What do you think? What would the cost be to do something like this?

GUNRU-GS4

Something like this? I could whip one up for.............. lets say for 10 cents. My beefy plate with the wood block works great for me but if you really think this could help you out just give me the dimensions you want. Pin length and diameter, plate diameter?

GS2006

GUNRU-GS4,
Great diagram, you generated that fast. Those dimensions are close; may not be exact for the specific jacks I’m currently using. Do you use the wood cross grain?

I did some test with this old beat up hockey puck. As you can see, care must be taken to make sure it is centered and the contact point centered. The car lifted is a 10yr Honda. Funny how the pinch weld on this car it more solid than Lexus lol.

Anyway, with out the flat plate there is more stress put on the puck. Nut sure how much it can take before it splits.


For Cliff,, better

cliffud

iTrader: (3)

whoa- please resize that hockey puck image...

E-man, pm me your address. I think I have hockey pucks at home that I'm not using. If I can find them, I'll just ship them to ya. I'm worried about your safety man!

e-man

Man, this thread has generated a lot of interest/discussion (as I believe it should).

Cliff -- thanks for your concern and for the offer on the pucks. I'm not sure that's the best way to go because, if you look at the picture posted by GS2006, it looks like the weight of the car is causing the puck to lean over to the inside. I just don't believe that's the most stable way to jack up the car. If it were to lean any more, I'd be afraid it would slip off and the car would fall directly onto the jack.

B -- thanks for the drawings and for the offer to fabricate something. It seems like me and GS2006 have a difference of opinion as to the proper way to lift the car from the pinch weld. GS2006 believes that the point of contact should be the pinch weld itself and that the area on either side of the pinch weld should not be used to support the load (thus, the hockey puck idea or something with a very shallow groove). I, on the other hand, believe that you should have something with a deep groove (like a grooved piece of wood or one of those yellow pads) between the jack plate and the pinch weld to accommodate the pinch weld so that the weight is distributed on either side of the pinch weld but not by the pinch weld itself (which is how the stock scissors jack lifts the car).

Let me ask you this, Brian. When you lift your car and place the wood on your lift cup, does the wood extend over the edges of the cup? Mine does, both in width and length. Also, do you have a groove in your wood, or does the pinch weld just rest on top of the wood? If it just rests on top of the wood, then what's the point of the wood? Why not just lift the car directly on the pinch weld like Clifford did in the picture on the previous page?

By the way, I have the Craftsman 2 1/4 ton floor jack, but I don't think my lift cup is as large as yours.

GS2006

Concerning the picture:
No leaning or slipping going on in the picture. The weight of the load is pressing the puck down in the middle and the lip of the jack cup causes the puck to flex. The flex is the same amount on both sides of the pinch weld. The only concern is weather the puck can withstand the flex over a long haul. Oh, and make sure jack and puck are centered on the pinch weld.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

I didn't think my hockey puck idea was going to get this far.
And obviously you can't use the cheap Czech pucks, you need the Canadian ones...

Seriously though, I think that the best way to do this may be to cut out a large round piece of wood to fit over the jack, then attach the hockey puck (with slice removed) to the top of the wood.
The idea is to spread the load so that neither the wood nor the puck nor the pinch seam have point contacts anymore. The puck provides a base for the pinch seam, and the wood provides a base for the puck, preventing it from twisting/sagging.
The wood would also have to be supported underneath, in the center, if the top of your jack is dish-shaped, to prevent the wood from splitting. You can also attach metal or wood framing on the underside of the wood block to keep it on the jack head and prevent it from slipping off.

Jerry

GS2006

e-man,
Does not get much clearer than this:

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/wheels.html

IAGS400

I hope you can see this.

This is how to jack up both tires at the same time using the read differential.