GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

I give up (on trying to use a hydraulic jack) -- WITH PIX

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Old 12-01-06, 08:37 AM
  #16  
slickgt1
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If you can get a better pic right now, I can tell you where I put the jack. I have a huge craftsman shop jack, and never had a problem even remotely close to yours. You deffinatelly put the jack in the wrong place. If you can get me a pic from the bottom, so that I can see the back of your front tire, bottom of the side skirt, and the rails under the car. I can point it out to you. I don't use any of the gadgets shown above, just the jack, and it always works just fine. I do most of my maintenance and upgrades myself.
Old 12-01-06, 08:55 AM
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mikal
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Originally Posted by JeffTsai
Placing the jack under the crossmembers is a great idea, but for most of us here that have lowered the car it's not an option. I have a low profile 3" hydraulic jack that wont fit under my car be it the front or back. I usually jack the car up a bit with the stock scissor jack so that there is room to slide the hydraulic one under the crossmembers. After that, jack the car up and put it on jack stands. It's pretty troublesome but it's the only way to do it if your car is lowered. The only other easier way I can think of is to buy some ramps and jack up the car up from the crossmembers once you drive up on them.
Jeff, you should try to put some old rotors (or something similar with that thickness) infront of your front tires, drive up onto them then jack up your car from the crossmember.
Old 12-01-06, 09:06 AM
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ElitistK
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Originally Posted by mikal
Jeff, you should try to put some old rotors (or something similar with that thickness) infront of your front tires, drive up onto them then jack up your car from the crossmember.
werd. it's so much easier to find the cross membrane that way.
Old 12-01-06, 09:31 AM
  #19  
rominl
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Originally Posted by e-man
This might work too (from eastwoodco.com web site):
doesn't your craftman jack already has something like that? on mine (2 1/4 ton craftman) they already have those slots to fit on the car nice and jack it up
Old 12-01-06, 10:09 AM
  #20  
salimshah
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Originally Posted by e-man
Also, could someone please tell me where/what the cross member is? I assume it runs "across" the width of the car, as the name implies, but I've never had anyone point it out to me.

And one last thing. Is there anything wrong with using the stock scissors jack? I ended up using it last night and it worked just fine. Is it not safe?

e
Base of the scissors jack is roughly 3" wide in lateral diection. So in case of a "roll" a small movement will bring the center of gravity off the base. If the scissors base was desinged wider you would have storage problem as well as finding a wide enough flat spot by the road side.

Incidentally the cross dimension of the base is wider to accomodate lift arc as you raise the car and storage wise, it is not a non issue.

Salim
Old 12-01-06, 10:18 AM
  #21  
Stage3
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The easiest solution that I have ever come across for placement of jacks and jack stands is to use Hockey Pucks. No, you didn't read that wrong, Hockey Pucks. We used them to lift Porsche's when I used to work at the dealer, and I decided to keep them when I left. I use them to lift my GS and use the Jackstands in the notch that's available for them. I know it sounds silly, but it doesn't damage ANY part of the undercarriage of the GS. And considering that the GS is much less expensive than a $100k Porsche, I would assume that it is ok to do so.
Old 12-01-06, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by e-man
Thanks for all the replies, guys. Gillexus -- this could be the answer to my problems. Thanks for the link to protechproducts:

This should fit in the groove where the sideskirt is correct..? That pic looks like its in the wrong place?

T
Old 12-01-06, 10:56 AM
  #23  
e-man
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Originally Posted by rominl
doesn't your craftman jack already has something like that? on mine (2 1/4 ton craftman) they already have those slots to fit on the car nice and jack it up
Henry -- it does have a slot, but the slot is not nearly deep enough to accomodate the pinch weld.
Old 12-01-06, 10:59 AM
  #24  
e-man
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Originally Posted by Stage3
The easiest solution that I have ever come across for placement of jacks and jack stands is to use Hockey Pucks. No, you didn't read that wrong, Hockey Pucks. We used them to lift Porsche's when I used to work at the dealer, and I decided to keep them when I left. I use them to lift my GS and use the Jackstands in the notch that's available for them. I know it sounds silly, but it doesn't damage ANY part of the undercarriage of the GS. And considering that the GS is much less expensive than a $100k Porsche, I would assume that it is ok to do so.
But where do you position the hockey pucks? Won't they teeter on the pinch weld? I assume the pinch weld doesn't sink into them, right?

Also, as for the jack stands, it seems like the support surface of the jackstand is too wide to place on the pinch weld area. It looks like it would come in contact with the side skirt.
Old 12-01-06, 11:20 AM
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slickgt1
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You are deffinatelly putting it too close to the sideskirt. The better place is the rail that is deeper towards the center of the car. Just look how shops lift your car when on a lift. They don't put those arms under the pinch weld.
Old 12-01-06, 11:24 AM
  #26  
e-man
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Originally Posted by slickgt1
You are deffinatelly putting it too close to the sideskirt. The better place is the rail that is deeper towards the center of the car. Just look how shops lift your car when on a lift. They don't put those arms under the pinch weld.

Hey Slick. I know the rails you're talking about. There are two, and they run from just behind the front tires to just in front of the rear tires about 8-10 inches in from the side of the car. Here's the problem, though. If you look at the picture above, that's the rail that I smushed with the floor jack. The rail didn't bend when I lifted the front of the car, but when I went to lift the rear of the car on the same rail, it smushed right in.
Old 12-01-06, 11:29 AM
  #27  
slickgt1
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Oh, thats the rear that you are doing. There is a different place. Ok I am going to be doing my suspension on saturday (myself). I will snap some pics for you.
Old 12-01-06, 11:34 AM
  #28  
e-man
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Originally Posted by slickgt1
Oh, thats the rear that you are doing. There is a different place. Ok I am going to be doing my suspension on saturday (myself). I will snap some pics for you.
I actually lifted all 4 corners last night (on the OEM location). But when I smushed the metal a few months ago, it was on that rail that runs 8 inches in and from just behind the front wheel to just in front of the rear wheel. Thanks for taking the time to snap some pictures. I appreciate it.
Old 12-01-06, 01:00 PM
  #29  
slickgt1
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No problem. As long as the rain is not there, I am deffinatelly doing my L-tuned and billstein setup. I'll deff get some pics for you.
Old 12-01-06, 01:04 PM
  #30  
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I have low profile alumunum jacks that fit nicely under the notches under the body-even lowered. As often as I jack up the cars I have yet to have an issue. Now I have seen other Lexus's and can tell that the jacks were misplaced and resulted in damage as indicated above. Custom wood blocks work great as well if there is clearance.

Good topic OP.
Lee


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