Diemellz

i have no choice but to change it, that whole area, is wet/moist do to a bad gasket, also there 2 spark plugs i have to change in that spot... im still open to other options? like what? btw my radiator is new

link13

OP - the hose on the reservior connects on one end to the reservoir cap and the other end does not connect to anything. It is there to let any overflowing coolant drain out.

Diemellz - I feel or felt your pain. I have a '94 GS with 177K miles. At 170Kish, the head gasket let go. After a new radiator, the car seemed fine, but then developed a coolant leak near the firewall. I am not mechanically inclined, so my brother was nice enough to replace the coolant hoses near the firewall. After a while, I noticed the coolant reservior would be bone dry, but the radiator was full. I had it checked out by my service guy and he said the head gasket was leaking at the back of the block. I drove it like this for a while just adding coolant weekly, but on the Monday before Christmas, the headgasket failed completely and the car was burning coolant. 2 Supra-wizard friends of mine replaced the head gasket, timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires, and cap and rotor for me. The car is insanely smooth now and it's getting about 60 more miles to a tank of fuel. Wasn't cheap, though.

YupImJOee

ohh yeah Link13, your post reminds me of that damn hose near the firewall right behind the middle of the head. you cant miss it, maybe thats your problem too. it gets old and cracks. it points DOWN going into the head.

mbhandball

I'm having the exact same complication w/ my 1st Gen GS...overheating, bubbling in the expasion tank, etc.
Replaced R. cap and upper R. hose came off.
The cast flange the upper hose fits on has partially disintegrated! U.R. hose now held on with zip ties.
Is there a decent workaround (collar that fits over the partial flange) or am I replacing the radiator?
Didn't mean to hijack the thread!
mbhandball

kene

iTrader: (2)

recommend replacing the radiator...and checking to see if you head gasket is blown. If it is then my suggestion is that should be the first priority then on to the radiator.

-To test the head gasket you can try this:
With the engine cold(NOT hot, NOT even warm...COLD ONLY) take off the radiator cap and make sure the the coolant/water level is good and keep the cap off.
-Now start the car, and head back over the the engine bay.
-Now twist the throttle to rev the motor and watch the radiator coolant inlet.
-If the coolant/water is bubbling, pouring, gushing out then there is a very likely chance that you may have a bad head gasket, or worse(not likely) a cracked block or head.

mbhandball

Thanks Kene for the quik reply.
Zips still working. 1gen running great! Temp holding at normal mark (2nd line) at highway speed.
Any leads on radiator replacement? (Toyota Parts says none of theirs fit, OE huge $).

Re: Head gasket issue. NO bubbles in system. Oil clean of muck, no dreaded white smoke out of exhaust, coolant looks good, and no more bubbling in reservoir after shut off.
Thinking the system is tight again.

Still hoping to locate shop to weld new inlet neck on top of radiator.
Is there an optimum temp (or range) for these engines?
Are stock radiators steel or aluminum?
Any thoughts about best mix of H20/coolant for maximizing cooling
Thanks.
BTW 95 -GS300 Gran Touring pearl white over silver.

kene

iTrader: (2)

A mix of 70 percent coolant and 30 percent water usually yields the best rrsults for cooling.
If you check the back of the coolant bottles that ratio, puts you at about 254° or 273°{don't remember exactly** boiling point over the conventional 220° with water, and 234° with a 50/50 mix.

mccalj

Guys I read the quotes above and I'm going to try replacing the radiator cap first. The resevoir is leaking from the cap but no where else. I can smell the coolant inside and outside the car at times. I just changed the oil and it looks normal. I don't think it's a head gasket.

kene

iTrader: (2)

did you try the head gasket test(with engine cold) posted above?