hey CL peeps. i been having this big problem with my car.. when i start it in the morning. this happends.. the RPM would go up to 2000RPM and when it get down to 1000rpm.. the whole car shakes.. but when i press on the gas it smooths out. After around 10 or 15 minut of drive.. the car start to smooth out even more.. one of my friend said that i might have bad timing or maybe one of the coil is messup.(1)could a bad coil do that?. cuz i could feel the car is kinda misfiring.. (2) you know when your exhaust system has a crack or a leak.. and it makes this big sound whenever you press on the gas.. does that lower your Power(HP)? (3) anyone in NYC that can help me check this out for a small charge? i'm really broke right now.

 

I had a similar problem when it rained very hard. The dealer changed the ignition wires, rotor and cap to fix it.

 

thanks. i got rotor and cap ready.. i'll change it in a week and give you an update. .. i just recently change the plugs and wire.

 

I agree with changing the distributor cap. I highly doubt the igniter, or plug wires are bad.

Check the ignition timing also. It should be 10*btdc. If you want a little more throttle response, you can change it in the range of 14-17*btdc, You should continue to use regular 87 gas at 17*btdc without problems.


If you want a little more power. (when you get it running correctly)



Cut the top of your Air-Flow meter off.




Is the inside of it.

There is a cog that connects to a spring that puts tension on the flap of the AFM. The more air that enters, the more the flap is sucked open. The flap is connected to a pot, which gives a metered voltage to the ECU.
The ECU combines that, with the temperature sensor (IAT, also in the AFM) to figure out how much air is entering the engine, and how much fuel it needs to inject.







If you turn the clog clockwise, there is more spring tension - the flap opens less - the ECU injects less fuel
Vice- Versa for counter-clockwise.

PAINT the starting cog so you know where it was.








The stock engine runs very, very rich, and very under timed. By adding a small amount of base timing (the previous 4-7* of extra advance) you gain throttle response, and a small amount of power. By leaning the AFM cog out 3-5 clicks, the engine can pickup another 10hp.

Basically... You turn the 185hp 92-93 3vz-fe into the 200hp 94-97.5 3vz-fe used overseas....
Without adding a piggyback, or spending a cent.


*** Reset the ECU every time you change the cog setting (Pull the EFI fuse out, count to one, put it back)
*** When you are done playing, simply use some silicon and seal the plastic top back on so water doesn't eat away at the circuit board.

 

AS always Pheonix, Very HELPFUL and very techincal.. i'll have to look into it a little more before attempting it.. the plastic top already has silicon on it. so i'm assuming the guy i got it from.. he had someone mess with it.. how do i know if it's already been mess with, by checking the timing?

 

Na. It's factory sealant trust me. The AFM is bare electronics on the inside and must be sealed.

When the car is assembled, they spin the cog, and idle by-pass screw into their "correct" ranges close enough for the enigne to run. When the engine is broken in a few min later. (It takes no time, they idle is set, and the engines blast their happy rings in going down the assembly line), they give the final adjustment.


I over explain. All you really have to do is cut the silicon, pop the plastic off, and spin the cog the direction you want to go. Unless you have n2o, or a turbo installed, you want to lean it. The stock system will still be over-fueling on an intake, and a full exhaust, headers and all.

Be sure to pull the EFI fuse between changes.
Be sure you do your testing on the street... Not reving sitting still.



Speaking of the idle-bypass screw. Ever wonder how to control the idle speed, and the fuel mixture at idle without the ECU changing it back??? Well that's the topic of discussion for tomorrow LoL!

 

what a genius this guy is.....

 

Phoenix this is a great post. I see this alot in stock Harley Davidsons (rich down low and lean up top) when dynoing. It must have something to do with Cali emissions?

 

No, it has nothing to do with what emessions package the engine is for. Toyota programs the widely used engines notoriously rich at high engine loads.
It keeps combustion chamber temperatures down (tho EGT rises as the fuel will be burning in the manifold).

The lower combustion temp does two things for Toyota.

1 - it provides a huge increase in the survivability of the pistons, and rings in un-normally high temperatures. - Less rebuilds, and seemingly much longer lasting engines.
2 - it lowers power output, keeping lesser models competing with other models.


Tho none are performance cars, It wouldn't exactly look great if the entire Camry platform back in the day were as fast as the much more expensive 2jz-ge powered cars would it?

 

WOW.. so you're telling me if i do this thing.. i can shorten the life of my engine??.. dam. then i'll be happy with the way it is, 10 Horses lower..

 

What I'm telling you is that is that the pistons won't last indefinately if you drive at 5000+ rpm and have a weak fuel system.
They will still last indefiantely at 250hp+. The 3vz-fe is a highly detonation resistant engine to begin with.


That extra 10-15hp doesn't hurt the 94+ 3vz-fe's in Australia, and I'm sure their climate is much worse than yours.

 

Wow seems like I've got a lot to do this summer.
Keep the mods coming..

 

"this summer" ?

Ive got ish to do tonight. lol! as long as it doesnt rain on me.

 

LoL. Yeah man this summer which is in like this coming weekend. Tomorrow's my last exam and then graduation.

Tell us how the mods go.

 

hey bud.. after you're done with Phoniex Mod .. let me know if you feel any difference
sorry, don't want to be the first lab rat..