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I do not agree with your logic which says Fram must make good filters because they are still in business.
They don’t make the best, but they are good enough. I’ve been using Fram oil and air filters on all my cars for over 30 years and I’ve never had any problems. Are there better filters out there sure but it’s not worth paying the extra. I would rather go with a mediocre filter and change my oil every 3000 miles than to buy an expensive filter and change my oil every 10,000 miles.
i just buy (bought) the toyota ones on ebay (from a legit dealer seller acct) when i did oil changes.
going stock guarantees the part is vetted and tested for your car (regardless of the band). for some things thats more important than others.
for engine oil filtration, i would guess aftermarket is fine, but why chance it to save 2 dollars. engineers went through all the work to make sure things work together as a system. when you buy a car, you are paying for that work that they were paid for.
i like to let things do work for me. whether its car, engineer, etc. let engineer do homework to make parts. let engine oil drain to bottom of pan while i sleep so it can exit drain hole dirt and all in the morning. dont give yourself extra work.
i like to let things do work for me. whether its car, engineer, etc. let engineer do homework to make parts. let engine oil drain to bottom of pan while i sleep so it can exit drain hole dirt and all in the morning. dont give yourself extra work.
They don’t make the best, but they are good enough. I’ve been using Fram oil and air filters on all my cars for over 30 years and I’ve never had any problems. Are there better filters out there sure but it’s not worth paying the extra. I would rather go with a mediocre filter and change my oil every 3000 miles than to buy an expensive filter and change my oil every 10,000 miles.
To each their own.
I get the impression you make up your mind then put together some uninformed and/or anecdotal rationale to justify your position, Eg your position on Toyota hybrid cvt’s.
When I still had my lexus, i would go into the lexus drivers account and register myself as doing the oil change with detailed notes. hopefully that registers somewhere, perhaps even on carfax?
Why not sign up for a free Carfax account and find out?
Every 10,000 miles I take our Lexus's to either a Lexus dealership or Toyota dealership and ask for an oil change. Every 30,000 miles I ask for also a brake service flush. At 100,000 coolant flush and spark plug change. Every year I change the cabin and engine air filters. Both cost $40 and take five minutes to change. Every two years replace wiper refill inserts.
Spark plug change interval is 60K or 5 years. Are you skipping that one?
i just buy (bought) the toyota ones on ebay (from a legit dealer seller acct) when i did oil changes.
going stock guarantees the part is vetted and tested for your car (regardless of the band). for some things thats more important than others.
for engine oil filtration, i would guess aftermarket is fine, but why chance it to save 2 dollars. engineers went through all the work to make sure things work together as a system. when you buy a car, you are paying for that work that they were paid for.
i like to let things do work for me. whether its car, engineer, etc. let engineer do homework to make parts. let engine oil drain to bottom of pan while i sleep so it can exit drain hole dirt and all in the morning. dont give yourself extra work.
If I left my oil draining all night, I guarantee there would be an emergency needing the car that night
Good point on the guaranteed filter fitment with OEM. I just cheaped out on a lawn mower engine air filter and regretted it.
If I left my oil draining all night, I guarantee there would be an emergency needing the car that night
Good point on the guaranteed filter fitment with OEM. I just cheaped out on a lawn mower engine air filter and regretted it.
I get the impression you make up your mind then put together some uninformed and/or anecdotal rationale to justify your position, Eg your position on Toyota hybrid cvt’s.
I’m uninformed because I choose real gears over a belt? Seems like you get butt hurt whenever someone doesn’t share your opinion.
My wife’s car is a hybrid and it’s absolutely a dead driving experience. Devoid of any feeling. Stomp on the gas and it feels like I’m waiting for the ketchup to flow out of the glass bottle.
He was saying to let the oil settle in the car's own oil pan overnight. Then drain out of the car.
So if there's an emergency in the night it's just a regular startup, the oil is still there.
The only better way to do it would be to feed new oil to the oil pump while draining the old oil at the same time.
He was saying to let the oil settle in the car's own oil pan overnight. Then drain out of the car.
So if there's an emergency in the night it's just a regular startup, the oil is still there.
The only better way to do it would be to feed new oil to the oil pump while draining the old oil at the same time.
Right I get it but why is the generally accepted practice to always drain oil when Hot?
Warm oil still has suspended debris that will flow out, rather than settle in the pan.
Oil flows better when hot so the stuff at the bottom in the pan drains better. I'm really not sure how waiting overnight helps.
I'm not one to argue when I know I'm wrong (been wrong plenty of times as my wife likes to remind me ) if I hear a valid reason, just have not heard it yet.
Originally Posted by Lexuspicious
The only better way to do it would be to feed new oil to the oil pump while draining the old oil at the same time.
Last edited by hotwings; Jan 17, 2026 at 12:02 PM.
Reason: update
The oil in our ES300h and 350 is not bitumen, you don't need to warm it for it to flow.
Then the role of an oil change is not to get rid of suspended debris!
It is changed because the oil itself degrades and its additives are consumed.
And there is nothing that would sediment at the bottom of the oil pan that would need to be suspended again by running the engine.
If it's the case, you have more serious issue to worry about.
On the topic of service visit: I just did the free 5000 miles visit at Lexus for my NX.
Upon looking at the paperwork I realized they messed up the miles in/out and the tag number...
So now it looks like I did my 5K visit at 4915 miles instead of 5810, I guess that's a plus.
It also explains why it took seemingly forever to get the car back...
Then I also left coolant overflow traces to see if they would dare to clean it, or maybe at least report it... Nope, still there and no mention of it.
The oil in our ES300h and 350 is not bitumen, you don't need to warm it for it to flow.
Then the role of an oil change is not to get rid of suspended debris!
It is changed because the oil itself degrades and its additives are consumed.
And there is nothing that would sediment at the bottom of the oil pan that would need to be suspended again by running the engine.
If it's the case, you have more serious issue to worry about.
I think we are going to have to agree to disagree on this. Your statements contradict logic and most conventional wisdom.
Just google the topic, not to mention many service procedures recommend draining when engine is warm.
I can hear poor Mr. AI getting trashed any minute here.
) if I hear a valid reason, just have not heard it yet.
