An alternative option if you don't want to mess around with fuses is this adapter that plugs into the OBD port. is no longer available but plenty of similar options.

 

So confused as to why everyone is playing the hardware install game for a dashcam.
Go get a Garmin dashcam and their ‘Constant Power Cable’ and connect directly to your cars OBD-II diagnostic port. You can select the time you want the dashcam to record after you exit your vehicle. I have this setup in all of my cars with the cameras recording when I am on the road and away from my vehicle for full protection. Zero issues and the total install time is less than 30 minutes, hiding all wiring.

Below is the link to my Garmin camera and the Constant Power Cable:

• https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/731445
• https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/735279

**SIDE NOTE - Why do Lexus owners who drop $50k plus on a car buy knockoff Amazon dashcams to protect their huge investment? Absolutely perplexing**

 

Maybe you should get a clue about dashcams before you shade on other people's choices. Garmin lol. I stopped using a Garmin when I got an iPhone like 17 years ago. Their gear is so out of date that it is shocking. 1080p? Really? And who buys a ****ing top-mount dashcam? If you get into a real accident, that camera is just going to flip up from it's own weight and record the sky. It's absolutely perplexing that you think you have enough clue to judge anyone.

Second, I prefer not to connect to an OBD2 port because I don't want to have to remember to unplug it when I bring it into the dealer, and I don't want some jackass tech pulling out my wiring job so they can get their tool in.

Third, it turns out that I don't even need to hardwire, since i was able to solve the power issue I was having with simply a better USB cable. I get my power from the auto dimming rear view mirror, so the wiring is far cleaner and shorter than an OBD run. I mostly use private parking, so I don't need the camera on when my car is off.

 

Damn, I must have hit a nerve, lol. I am not judging or ‘shading’ anyone. It’s confusing why people take the long road for install and purchase mediocre technology to protect such an expensive investment. I have seen this in hundred of vehicles. $50 dash-cam to protect a $60k car.

I have went the ODB route on multiple cars and had zero issues. Never a need to unplug them for the dealer. They pull it out, do their thing and plug it right back in. Using the ODB port is supported by nearly EVERY dash-cam vendor, not just Garmin. If you don’t need the camera on 24x7, just flip the switch on the connector and you can change the setting.
So for those who don’t want to be a YouTube dash-cam installer, and tear their car apart, there is an easier way. Like Dr. Phil, I am here to help.

 

For future reference, I stumbled across a VIOFO A229 Pro review video that includes amp and watt bench testing measurements of 1, 2, and 3 channel configurations in different operating modes. For continuous (i.e., "normal" driving) mode:

1 channel 0.359A 4.4W
2 channel 0.478A 5.9W
3 channel 0.628A 7.8W

For all the measurements (including the above ones), see the Safe Drive Solutions' Viofo A229 Pro 4k Dash Cam Review video starting at the 16:20 time mark:

 

This is really cool. Thank you grp52.