ukcats
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It is not a problem. You just change the factory core into the metal cap. Easy, takes less than two minutes. Several videos on you YouTube to show you how.Originally Posted by tolian21
The metal style toyota canister does not have the same length for core pipe, its a bad idea, these parts are not interchangeable. You will have to go aftermarket. Listen to car care nut, he said he had seen zero issues with plastic and warned about replacing it with a metal one that does not have the same specs
ukcats
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Threads could be a problem. Anytime you let the dealership touch your car, it’s a crap shoot.Originally Posted by Denzlex
The only time there would be an issue is if it’s drastically overtightened. If you do your own oil changes, it can obviously be avoided. If someone else does your oil changes and you’re worried about them overtightening, wouldn’t you be concerned about the metal housing potentially damaging the threads of the oil pump housing? You can’t damage those threads with a plastic housing.
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if this produces the same specs, great. But if you DIY you have to ask yourself why you are doing this, if you do not over-tighten it, plastic one will work fine and will not fail. They now put plastic valve cover in some toyotas, and it worksOriginally Posted by ukcats
It is not a problem. You just change the factory core into the metal cap. Easy, takes less than two minutes. Several videos on you YouTube to show you how.
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Um, ok. I read that. Are you under the impression I was responding to you? And did I say something to dispute what you said? Originally Posted by zul8tr
Like I said in my post #7 the Lexus service dept excessively overtightened the filter I had to use a 3 ft breaker bar with about 50 lbs to get it loose. I bought a real good all steel tool (details available) not the junk cast aluminum to fit snug on all the filter flukes and luckily the plastic filter was not damaged and I reused it and back at 18 ft lbs.
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Absolutely not and I did not assume you were responding to me and no dispute was taken- all good here.😊 Just keeping the tread flow clear for other readers who just chimed in that sometimes read the latest post and need to go to older posts 😉. Just my engineering background on follow up with others still at work in my retirement .Originally Posted by Denzlex
Um, ok. I read that. Are you under the impression I was responding to you? And did I say something to dispute what you said?
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The only issue is metal cap ones aftermarket and the quality of those are questionable.
Genuine plastic ones are OK (although I prefer metal canister style ones). You just need to be extra gentle with those and use torque wrench.
Genuine plastic ones are OK (although I prefer metal canister style ones). You just need to be extra gentle with those and use torque wrench.
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Originally Posted by ukcats
It is not a problem. You just change the factory core into the metal cap. Easy, takes less than two minutes. Several videos on you YouTube to show you how.
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As I said before, I prefer metal.Originally Posted by tolian21
if this produces the same specs, great. But if you DIY you have to ask yourself why you are doing this, if you do not over-tighten it, plastic one will work fine and will not fail. They now put plastic valve cover in some toyotas, and it works
ukcats
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Genuine plastic ones are OK (although I prefer metal canister style ones). You just need to be extra gentle with those and use torque wrench.
I use the genuine Toyota cap, and always use factory torque specs.Originally Posted by es250fsport
The only issue is metal cap ones aftermarket and the quality of those are questionable.Genuine plastic ones are OK (although I prefer metal canister style ones). You just need to be extra gentle with those and use torque wrench.