It's really hard for a DIY with newer cars like the '24 ES350 to support at the subframe since its mostly covered with rubber panels.
When you say "supporting by the very bottom of the rocker panel" are you referring to the same area I am showing in this picture where I point to the caulk?

 

When you say “… the very bottom of the rocker panel,” you’re referring to the pinch welds, correct?

 

I just asked the same question in post #31 so we are on the same page

I have personally bent pinch welds by using a floor jack improperly so am sensitive to this subject (I think LeX2K is correct). It's important the floor jack is perpendicular to the side of the car and the wheels can rotate freely so that no stress gets placed on the pinch weld. This would be much less of a problem if the correct adapter was used which did not put lateral force on that weld, but even then the wheels should roll easily perpendicular to the side of the car.

 

Yes the area you have arrows and the label pinch welds.

Reason I like scissor jacks is they have give, this is bad if you raise the car too high but overall I feel it is much safer. A scissor jack can be crooked and the car won't fall, only to an extent of course and try not to do this. Floor jack is a rigid device on wheels that's quite silly when you think about it.

Don't get under the car unless you have supplemental support no matter what kind of jack you are using.

 

Also, the pinch weld is actually an inverted triangle, hence once the U-shaped P2M pinch weld adapter is fastened, the U-shaped channel design cannot slide up to put pressure on the bottom end apex of the pinch weld - instead, the pressure is on the sides of the pinch weld and the base of the chassis.

Likewise, the twin-screw design will not allow the lateral screws to spontaneously slide out laterally so that the U-shaped channel can slide up to crush the pinch welds.

 

So Pete, You use a hex key to tighten the side screws onto the inverted triangle (pinch weld) when lifting the car and then it's safe to use a floor jack - with wheels chocked - to lift the car? And this can be used for front and rear... I actually prefer to do it this way instead of finding/using the designated lift points that Lexus recommends. Probably 90% of other vehicle manufacturers use the side lift points for lifting and I don't get it why Lexus designs it otherwise...

 

Ok you lost me a little here, maybe my brain needs more coffee.
Where exactly are you referring to "apex of triangle"? The only triangle I see in your picuture is one of the two reference marks cut into the sheet metal to define one side of where to place the scissor jack (see my picture below).

When you say "the U-shaped channel design cannot slide up to put pressure on the bottom end apex of the pinch weld - instead, the pressure is on the sides of the pinch weld and the base of the chassis" the adapter IS putting pressure on the bottom flat portion of the pinch weld area which I show in an arrow. There is no side pressure that I see. The screws are simply retaining the adapter to make it more convenient to hold it while getting a jack or jack stand up there. What side pressure are you referring to? I'm just not following this.

 

if you're careful and precise, you can trim that portion of the seam sealer off (the part that's hanging down). i would cut it level with the rest of the seam sealer bead.

As for adapters, for a flat pad jack, i'd just use a soft type jack pad adapter for pinch welds. it'll get all compressy with the other soft stuff and be fine.

for stands, they make soft rubbery type adapters as well that simply slot into place.

i have a whole set of old tools to get rid of. i'm going to donate to my friend's mechanics yard on the military base. he says they can use some spare stuff. i've got an entire bin of legacy stuff.

never get under a car solely supported by a jack though. and definitely don't use the scissor jack unless you absolutely have an emergency on the side of the road.

 

I would be very careful about getting under a car on the side of the road being held up by a scissor jack, emergency or not. Better to call professional help (tow truck) if you need to get under a car on the roadside. There are far too many variabless at play on the roadside to do almost anything other than change a flat tire.

 

I did not read the whole thread but you can see underneath the car the place where the jack should go, and if there is some kind of silicone you can remove it or you can put the jack and the jack will press it. If you have the alligator style jack then you can put it on the front underneath the engine, there is a spot for it. Actually it is the most rigid place to put a jack and and the safest.

 

I successfully used this toyota lexus pinchweld adapter along with a Daytona Aluminum 3T Jack Stand to lift my 2024 ES350 for an oil change.
The adapter perfectly contacted only the reinforced area intended by Lexus above the pincheweld (not on the knife edge of the pinchweld).
I'm very happy with this combination and felt secure under the car. I will use this when I do brake work.

 

Edge of the pinch weld is supposed to take the load not the upper area, going by your pictures that is what is happening. That jack stand looks like a tip hazard to me the base is so small.

 

You could not be more wrong.

The load DOES NOT belong on the knife edge. The adapter is shaped exactly like the factory scissor jack and supports above the pinchweld on a reinforced area of the floor.

Try your scissor jack and you will see what I mean. The stands are very solid on flat concrete floor.

 

Where does the factory jack contact?
I have 6 Toyota/Lexus they all have the primary point of contact on the lowest edge. Maybe Lexus doesn't do that anymore.

 

The adapter I show supports exactly like the factory scissor jack shown in this photo