Tootsall

If by “cheap gas” you mean “low quality” rather than “low octane” or “regular”, or even “low price” then we agree.

Dampfwalze

Most definitely. Also, he mentioned in the video you shared that it would run better on higher octane if it has carbon build up, so more empirical evidence that it probably is a carbon build up problem.

rmak

2016 ES350

Just an update before I go further in my attempt to isolate this vibration. Mine is very minimal, but enough to issue myself a personal challenge as I have worked on cars and aircraft my whole life. Really a shame for this to put a dark cloud over an otherwise great car.

Car has 41k miles as of today.

1. I have used premium fuel only and Techron fuel products for the past 5k miles.
2. I have cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor, changed the pcv valve and air filter.
3. I have changed the oil with fresh Toyota 0-20 Synthetic.
4. I have run Techstream diagnostics and found zero codes for any type of malfunction.

My car still has the exact same vibration as when I started all of the above items. No change whatsoever.

My next steps after the Holidays will be a new front engine mount. Then possibly the other side engine mounts.

Could it possibly be the body bushings where the frame mounts to the body?

It does not bother me enough to worry about, just very weird. I have owned 4 cyl accords that felt better with 40k miles.

ESh

I have the same problem with my 2007 ES350. No way to find out the problem. I did everything:

spark plugs, coils, pcv, throttle body clean, all the filters including the fuel filter...I still feel slight vibrations on idle especially on D or R. Sometimes even the idle goes under 600 rpm. Techstream says all clean.

Dampfwalze

The last one I owned 2014 with 65k miles had very minimal vibration compared to others (test drives), which was the main reason I purchased it over others combined with the fact it always had 5k oil changes not the 10k. But while owning it for a month, the premium really did have an impact for me. I wouldn't say it was completely gone, but much less. While it may be designed for either fuels, I can't stand the vibration, so I always went back to premium most of the time. I would try regular after a couple tanks of premium and always the same result for me.
Considering I've seen/felt this on nearly every 2gr-fe engine with more than 65k miles in my case, I don't think it's the mounts etc unless they're all faulty and most people don't idle in drive enough to make Toyota ever address it, since it's mainly noticeable in drive at idle/stop.

I have a Highlander 2012 now, and the structure seems to reduce the vibrations - if any, that the driver feels. That being the case, I'm only using regular 87 fuel now.

Dampfwalze

Is that running on 5w-30? Curious because many Highlander users saying 0w-30 or 5w-30 quietes the engine. Thinking about using 0w-30. Checked the parts number for oil pump etc, same one going back to the 90s. I'm also in a very hot climate with mostly highway driving - Houston.

ESh

M1 5w30 ep.

camlex

2016 is electric power steering? or Hydraulic

ESh

350 has hidraulic, 300h has electric PS.

Mike728

This gen is all electric.

norakat

There are a few things that can be causing a rough idle..

My 2016 ES 350 is at 116,000 miles and my idle feels smooth and quiet and there is no vibration, from the steering wheel or anywhere else, though I have felt a rough idle in the past (which I resolved).

I think the most common cause for a rough idle is carbon buildup in the engine. This seems to happen very quickly if you use regular gas. I used to use regular but do not anymore. I use only super now. Not only do you have to use super with this car (to avoid fast carbon buildup), you have to buy gas from reputable gas stations (in my area they are Sunoco and Mobile) and not just any Sunoco or Mobile in my experience.

To remove the carbon buildup (I know many will object to this) I did multiple Seafoam treatments in the engine. And I mean the most dangerous treatment - applying to the engine either through the throttle body or a vacuum line such as the brake booster. I do not recommend this for inexperienced people, but anyone can learn how to do it. The key to a safe application is that you cannot apply too much at a time, and the car has to stay revved at a particular RPM noted in the instructions. You can use the spray can version to ensure a moderate stream. It is pretty scary to do because you can easily flood the cylinders and it might not start immediately on first start. Anyway do at your own risk and follow instructions on their website. I would not let it soak beyond the suggested time and I would do a little at a time, like not the entire can or maybe not even half the can. If doing through the brake booster vacuum line I would not pour it but use a plastic bottle w a narrow spout to apply into the vacuum line.

I had to do this pretty frequently while using regular gas in my area, however the problem has not returned ever since I switched to Super gasoline.

----

There are many other reasons you can be having a rough idle such as - dirty throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, dirty air filter, spark plugs past their life, etc. A ton of other things can cause a rough idle.

Mike728

Higher octane gas does not contain more detergents. Unless your vehicle is tuned for it, there is nothing to be gained by using premium, except a lighter wallet.

norakat

I'm telling you the experience with my car from first hand experience. The problem resolving doesn't necessarily have to be chalked up to the detergents in the gas (though it is my belief that it has better detergents and/or additives) but perhaps the quality of the gas they put into 'regular' grade holding tanks are worse. Perhaps this is a regional thing also..

Pkhentz

Has anyone else tried the Seafoam and high octane solution? I bought a 2013 with 100k on it. The engine vibrates too much at idle when in gear. It's worse when the AC is on and not present in park or neutral. I've cleaned the MAF, throttle body, changed trans. fluid. Seafoam sounds interesting: