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Question: i don't plan on sawing at all, so i went with 3.5" speakers with just 2 holes for bolts.
But what about middle dash speaker? did you have to saw the edges as well for the 4" speaker to fit? i'm planning to upgrade the center as well, but maybe if no sawing required, i'll try a 4" in center.
did you use the capacitors that came with the infinity speakers?
i'm going to install my speakers over the weekend, hopefuly i don't break anything (i usually break something when i do diy work).
does anyone know if the stock non ML audio system has crossover capacitors for the dash speakers?
Well, hard to say. I have one in my hand, and it has a plastic housing around the back of it, and it does not come off easily, so I can't see what is inside without destroying it, which I do not want to do at this time.
Having said that, the Infinity REF-4022cfx speakers that I put on do have a capacitor on them clearly visible, and they sound really good in the dash.
Question: i don't plan on sawing at all, so i went with 3.5" speakers with just 2 holes for bolts.
But what about middle dash speaker? did you have to saw the edges as well for the 4" speaker to fit? i'm planning to upgrade the center as well, but maybe if no sawing required, i'll try a 4" in center.
did you use the capacitors that came with the infinity speakers?
i'm going to install my speakers over the weekend, hopefuly i don't break anything (i usually break something when i do diy work).
Thanks. I hope it helps you this weekend. I just went ahead and sawed all 3 speakers, once I figured out that I needed to do that for the corners. After I mounted the center one, I was looking at it and thinking I probably could have just bent the 2 tabs down for that one.
I know you already have purchased your 3.5" ones, but let me highly recommend you use the 4" ones I bought. I think that mid and high tones go to the dash corners (by the amp), and I would think the 4" ones I used will do a better job with mid-range voices than those 3.5" ones.
Thanks. I hope it helps you this weekend. I just went ahead and sawed all 3 speakers, once I figured out that I needed to do that for the corners. After I mounted the center one, I was looking at it and thinking I probably could have just bent the 2 tabs down for that one.
I know you already have purchased your 3.5" ones, but let me highly recommend you use the 4" ones I bought. I think that mid and high tones go to the dash corners (by the amp), and I would think the 4" ones I used will do a better job with mid-range voices than those 3.5" ones.
this is why i purchased from amazon, i can return them with no drama.
are the tabs metal or plastic? in the 3.5" 3022cfx the tabs are metal, no way i'm drilling that. i just don't have thee tools.
Man, you got me thinking now. i really think i should do the 4" instead, and they are cheaper than the 3.5"!!!!!
Ok, a progress report. I have replaced the 3 dash speakers and the 2 rear door speakers. I am waiting for a part (the ring adapters) for the 2 front door speakers.
I gotta first say hats off to member notabot! You rock for posting instructions and pics from when you did your speaker upgrades. I followed his instructions for:
I ordered the following from Amazon:
$ 89.36 - 2 pair of Infinity REF-4022cfx 4" speakers
$ 72.00 - 1 pair of Infinity REF-9623ix 6x9" speakers, for front doors
$ 45.00 - 1 pair of Infinity REF-6522EX 6.5" speakers, for rear doors
$ 5.83 - Pry tool set
$ 8.99 - 2 pair of Metra 72-4568 wire adapters. These were used for the dash speakers.
$ 8.99 - 2 pair of Metra 72-8104 wire adapters. These were used for the front and rear speakers.
$ 15.36 - Metra 82-8148 speaker adapters for the rear speakers
Install notes, so far (additional comments and pics from notabot's instructions):
Front Dash Speakers
- It is kind of tight working on the dash speakers. The windscreen is constantly in the way, and visibility is marginal. I frequently got out of the car and looked through the windscreen to see what I was doing.
- I used the small splunger (in fact so far I have only used that one) in that pry tool set. First with curve down to get the edge up, and then flipped over with the curve up to get the panels up the rest of the way. Pretty easy actually to get the panels up.
- The existing wire connector to the speakers is hard to get off the first time. You hold a locking tab down and slide it out, but it took me awhile to do the first one.
- The speakers came with 4 lugs, but you only need 2. I tried to fold 2 of them over, but that did not work. I then tried to break them off, and that did not work. I then got out the hacksaw and sawed them off. That worked pretty good. I was leery of getting too close to the rubber with the saw, but somehow managed to not cut the rubber up.
- The Metra 72-4568 wire adapters are for GM cars, but with some modification, you can get them to work. See notabot's instructions.
- The + on the new speaker is the white wire, and the - is the black wire. On the car-attached connector, the + is the side with the little key slot, which is black. So, I had to non-intuitively attach the connectors so that the colors did not match, but + to +.
- The first dash speaker took me 1.5 hours. The 2nd and 3rd ones took 5-7 mins each.
Now some pics:
Splunger kit, with my hand as a reference. Only used the small one, so far.
Upper left is stock corner dash speaker. Upper right is stock center dash speaker. Infinity 4" speaker, and the GM wire adapters (before modification)
Same speakers flipped over
Dash speaker after using the hacksaw. I did not file them smooth, because why bother, and no extra metal shavings.
Another view after using the hacksaw
What I sawed off
The GM connector before and after clipping the plastic away with wire cutters. You really just want the two metal prongs to stick out by themselves.
Another view of the connector after surgery
Sawed speaker, with modified wire adapter, all ready to be mounted.
When you plug the adapters together, there will be a gap, but no big deal. I wrapped in electrical tape to hold it all together.
Rear Door Speakers
- Pretty much like notabot's instructions
- I used the hand cut-out area to grip the bottom of the door to pull it from the connectors.
- I used the small splunger for the little panels and such.
- But, it took an hour to get the 1st door back on. Wow, it was scary and extremely frustrating. The 2nd door took 5 mins to get back on. I think the trick was to rock it on the top from front to back, and to roll the window down, but I was sweating the 2nd one. I hope the front doors are easier!
Verdict so far:
- About as hard/easy as I thought it would be. Definitely doable, if you prepare, and use notabot's instructions. I hope my additions help someone.
- As for the sound, most of the sound comes through the front door speakers, so I have not really experienced the change yet. Having said that, I did one side of the dash, then did a comparison. The Infinity side definitely sounded brighter and clearer. Way different. I also did a comparison with the rear door speakers and heard a similar positive change.
Hopefully, I will get the front door adapters soon, so I can tackle them.
FYI, I updated post #15 with new information about the front door speaker mounts. I should have the new ones in a couple days, so I will report then how the front doors install went.
i think the hardest part is putting the door together. I fear it might never have the fit and finish of factory...
Yes, that is the hardest part. But, don't worry about it fitting like it originally did...it will. Because of how the lip is at the top, and all those (maybe 8) clips around the rest of the door work, once you have the top in place, the plastic clips have to line up, and therefore the panel will be in exactly the same place as it was when you started. The 3 screws also hold the panel tight to the door frame. So, the panel will be just as it was when you started.
Ok, I did the front door pair today, using the Metra 82-8149 adapter rings. Not much to add to notabot's instructions. It took 30 mins for one door, and 10 mins for the other. The reattachment of the door panel was still a pain, but way easier than the rear ones. I did the 2nd door in maybe two minutes.
The 3-way Infinity 6x9s I put in there have a switch on them, marked +0dB and +3dB. I read somewhere (there is nothing that came with the speaker) that this switch is for tweeter control, and the flattest response is actually at the +3dB setting, so I set them to that (switch pushed in). I put it all together, and I thought the sound was a bit harsh, so I detached just the bottom of the door panels and reached in and changed it to +0dB (switch pushed out). I tried to push the switch with a flashlight shinned into the speaker and using a straighten paperclip, but I just could not see it enough. No biggie to change it.
So, I am done with all 7 speakers. Final verdict: Well, the changing of the front door speakers added a little more bass. Honestly, I may have liked the overall sound a little better with the stock speakers in the front door, since the added bass is a little boomy. I'll play around with the settings some more. For sure, the big bang for the buck, and best sonic improvement, comes from changing the 3 dash speakers. It is ridiculous how much better the system sounds spending $90 and just changing those 3.
I have never heard a Mark Levinson system, and I bet the bass is deep and tight, and it sounds great at high volumes, BUT my ($264 added) system now sounds really, really good.
FM HD radio still stinks (with the HD in the name, you would think it would sound better), and CDs still sound the best.
Sounds like it's recommended to go with the Infinity REF-4022cfx over the Infinity Reference X REF-3002cfx, however I'm a bit hesitant to go with the 4" because of the need to modify/delete the additional speaker mounting tabs. Would something like this (Straight Cutting Aviation Snips) be able to cut through it? Debating whether to go with the 3002 and only hold it down primarily with the one bolt (second bolt/washer slightly holding it together) or doing it the right way and getting the larger 4022 and snipping off the taps? I'm thinking the 4022 is the better play here based on the two threads.
As long as you can get it to cut closely to the frame, then I think it would cut it. They are not terribly thick. You could always try it (wish I had, since I have some like that), and then use a file or Dremel if you can't get close enough. Let us know if you do.
I would say the 4022cfx is known to fit and work well...you just have to get the two tabs off. The 4" vs 3.5" probably gives you better mid-range voices.
Thinking about this a bit. One thing I did not try is bending the tabs UP. There might be enough clearance between the speaker and the grill to pull that off. I just used a pair of pliers to bend them.
As long as you can get it to cut closely to the frame, then I think it would cut it. They are not terribly thick. You could always try it (wish I had, since I have some like that), and then use a file or Dremel if you can't get close enough. Let us know if you do.
I would say the 4022cfx is known to fit and work well...you just have to get the two tabs off. The 4" vs 3.5" probably gives you better mid-range voices.
Thinking about this a bit. One thing I did not try is bending the tabs UP. There might be enough clearance between the speaker and the grill to pull that off. I just used a pair of pliers to bend them.
Thanks for the information! Sounds good, I'll stick with the 4022cfx. I'll try bending the tabs up first, otherwise I'll give it a go cutting the tabs off. Will keep everyone posted on how it goes, still need to order everything!
i installed all 3 dash speakers today.
the 2 corners are 3.5" 3022cfx, which will be replaced by 4022cfx once they arrive in the mail.
I did get 1 set of 4022 4" so i installed that in the center channel.
You can indeed install the center channel by bending the 2 tabs, very easy to do. they bend very easily. Make sure you BEND THEM DOWNWARDS. No problem with fitment.
Only 1 screw fits, but it's enough to keep the speakers in place.
They make a HUGE difference over stockl speakers. My god, the stock speakers are atrociously bad.
Anyhow, i think i'm getting sucked into the rabbit hole. Now i want to get the doors done too. Darn it, here goes my money.
Thanks Camfused, i followed your wiring for the speakers.
Also Huge thanks to Notabot, it was his idea originally.
After reading this thread I too am going to upgrade the speakers. I definitely agree the sound is below average especially for a luxury car, however no car is perfect. When compared to other cars like my 15' Hyundai Sonata (has the infinity sound) its miles ahead of the lexus, not even in the same league. Hopefully these speakers will make a decent improvement. I'm just gonna stick to the two dash corner and center channel speakers as I don't want to mess with taking off the doors (ordered the same ones as OP). I'll post back with my thoughts on how they sound.
03-21-19, 02:36 PM
