When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Most of the install is standard practice (power, ground, wire routing, etc.), but the challenge is where to pull the signal from. There are a couple of different options; you can remove the drivers seat and tap a full range signal right off the factory amp mounted underneath it or you can tap into the wires on the rear deck running to the sub. I took the quickest route and soldered to the leads right on the sub, underneath the deck. The ML sub is probably the same configuration.
Gotchya, thanks for the info. I'll poke around a bit. I'd ideally like to put some sort of level control in....would like the extra bass off when the two year old is in the car!
So in your config., your OEM sub and the new sub both thump, right?
Gotchya, thanks for the info. I'll poke around a bit. I'd ideally like to put some sort of level control in....would like the extra bass off when the two year old is in the car!
So in your config., your OEM sub and the new sub both thump, right?
A lot of powered subs I looked at have an included or optional remote. The RF one I have came with a remote, I just chose not to use it. I'm a set it and forget it type of person.
Yes, the OEM Sub is still connected. You need to make sure the polarity of the new sub matches the OEM one, otherwise they will cancel each other out. All the powered subs I looked at have a polarity switch to make it easy to adjust.
In thinking a little more about this setup, I may remove the rear deck to wire the sub to the insulated wires. If I do I may see what it sounds like removing the OEM sub and letting the RF sub feed through the old sub hole.
A lot of powered subs I looked at have an included or optional remote. The RF one I have came with a remote, I just chose not to use it. I'm a set it and forget it type of person.
Yes, the OEM Sub is still connected. You need to make sure the polarity of the new sub matches the OEM one, otherwise they will cancel each other out. All the powered subs I looked at have a polarity switch to make it easy to adjust.
In thinking a little more about this setup, I may remove the rear deck to wire the sub to the insulated wires. If I do I may see what it sounds like removing the OEM sub and letting the RF sub feed through the old sub hole.
Cool, keep us posted. I'm going to take a look at the manual for the RF you got and see details on the remote.
Also, when looking at your pics I was thinking about how we always use an enclosure for aftermarket subs. The stock subs in our cars just sort of sit open on the rear deck. So, I guess in essence the whole trunk is the enclosure. What if we added a smaller "box" around the back of the sub in the trunk, would that have a positive effect? I'm picturing a fitted box sort of hanging from around the sub...or would that have the opposite effect and reduce the bass?
Great now you can drive around with windows down and blast your rap music.
Yes... That's exactly why I did it. Cue the WuTang!
Seriously, if that was my goal, I would have put something much more substantial than a single 10". I'm just trying to improve where the system is lacking.
Could you show where exactly you came out of the firewall from the engine side.
Originally Posted by djdrew44
With the help of some advice from other members, I added a Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Sub to my non ML audio system. It adds just enough bass to fill in what was lacking from the factory.
Factory nut used to bold down the power wire directly to the battery
I pushed the power wire through the factory grommet to the right of the steering column
Side trim was easily removed to run power along the existing channel
Power wire runs behind the top of the back seat and through this opening
Used a spot behind the back seat for a ground
Soldered the speaker level lead directly to the leads of the sub. I did this to save the time and effort of removing the back seat to access the wiring on the rear deck
Could you show where exactly you came out of the firewall from the engine side.
With the help of some advice from other members, I added a Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Sub to my non ML audio system. It adds just enough bass to fill in what was lacking from the factory.
Factory nut used to bold down the power wire directly to the battery
I pushed the power wire through the factory grommet to the right of the steering column
Side trim was easily removed to run power along the existing channel
Power wire runs behind the top of the back seat and through this opening
Used a spot behind the back seat for a ground
Soldered the speaker level lead directly to the leads of the sub. I did this to save the time and effort of removing the back seat to access the wiring on the rear deck
Hey DJDrew -
Thanks so much for posting the pics and doing the install! Not sure I'm brave enough to do an aftermarket sub install, but your post certainly helps! I'm in the process of replacing my corner dash speakers and will post those soon. I agree - the bass is seriously lacking in our non-ML systems. FTR, I listen to everything, from classical to rap to country to talk to pop to rock and I find the stock system too thin and hollow. The front door speaker replacements helped, and I think the dash replacements will help a LOT more, but that OEM sub is definitely the weakest link.
Cheers!
Hey DJDrew -
Thanks so much for posting the pics and doing the install! Not sure I'm brave enough to do an aftermarket sub install, but your post certainly helps! I'm in the process of replacing my corner dash speakers and will post those soon. I agree - the bass is seriously lacking in our non-ML systems. FTR, I listen to everything, from classical to rap to country to talk to pop to rock and I find the stock system too thin and hollow. The front door speaker replacements helped, and I think the dash replacements will help a LOT more, but that OEM sub is definitely the weakest link.
Cheers!
Wow, I think the sub was nothing compared to taking off door and dash panels. Kudos to you! I used to do installs for a living years ago and disassembled many types of cars, but I feel like once they are taken apart, they are never the same. I would really be interested in seeing your install process for the doors and dash, that may be my next project and help me get over my apprehension of taking the doors apart.
Wow, I think the sub was nothing compared to taking off door and dash panels. Kudos to you! I used to do installs for a living years ago and disassembled many types of cars, but I feel like once they are taken apart, they are never the same. I would really be interested in seeing your install process for the doors and dash, that may be my next project and help me get over my apprehension of taking the doors apart.
I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how easy it is. As for the putting things back together process - I think it's a testament to the build quality (or at least the engineering) that everything buttons back up really cleanly. I've noticed no rattles or squeaks since the install. The dash speakers are super super easy to take out (those grills just pop right off), it's the custom wiring harness and slightly oversized mounting distance that's the issue. I think I finally have it solved (proof of concept this weekend) and will post when I finish it up. LMK if you have any questions.
Hi DJDREW44, great pics and better than replacing door speakers IMHO. Question about input wires from existing deck sub, did you attach them to +L and +R wires on the input? Then adjust the phase/polarity switch for best sound? Thanks David. 2016 ES 350 non ML. UPDATE: Today, I spoke with a tech at Rockford Fosgate about connecting the OEM deck speaker wires to the powered sub. He said to use the + and - input for either the Left or Right. As djdrew said, if polarity is wrong, just flip the switch on the subs control panel to get the best sound. Tech also said it's fine to leave the OEM speaker working in sync with the Rockford unit.
11-24-15, 03:15 AM
