2008 Lexus ES 350 won't start after dead battery replace
#16
Driver School Candidate
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Update to my original post. While attempting to locate and replace my transmission range sensor I came upon some interesting issues. The TRS is located on top of the transmission just under the air element box. You have to disconnect it and remove the box to have access to it.
Transmission Range Sensor (aka Neutral Safety Switch)
Transmission Range Sensor (aka Neutral Safety Switch)
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CamelKool (07-13-20)
#17
Driver School Candidate
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When I finally located it I noticed the wire for the harness connector was chewed into and the wire within the sleeve was frayed. So, the sensor is probably good the fault code is due to damaged wire. As I was inspecting other wires I noticed the engine coolant temperature sensor had no wire attached to the harness and a loose 4 inch piece of wire was sitting on top of the transmission below it.
#18
Driver School Candidate
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The wires were probably damaged by an animal while the car was stored for the winter. Does anyone have instructions on how to replace the ECT sensor wiring connector and the Transmission Range Sensor wiring harness?
#19
Driver School Candidate
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I have been having some trouble finding info on how to possibly replace my ECT sensor connector and transmission range sensor (neutral safety switch assembly) connector. Are all of the electrical connectors/harnesses and wires part of the negative battery cable assembly? Or can an individual wire and connector be replace if damaged?
#21
Driver School Candidate
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I just wanted to give an update to my original post. Since the damage was caused by an animal chewing the wire I found out it was covered under my comprehensive auto insurance policy. The insurance adjustor determined the entire negative battery cable "may" need to be replaced and gave an estimate cost of about 1700.00 for the cable and $700.00 labor (low end of labor required). The car was towed to my local Lexus dealer who determined the only damage done was to the two wires mentioned previous and suggested that the wires could be repaired by soldering. It would require 4 hours labor at a cost of 656.00. However, since the insurance company quoted and approved a replacement for the negative cable If I wanted I could do so. I was assured repairing it would be sufficient. So I just repaired the cable and the car is back to running again.
Thanks for all of your help.
Thanks for all of your help.
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