2011 ES350 with 51K - Rough idle while in R or D
02-12-18, 09:22 PM
#31
To the original poster.......are you sure nothing was done to this car between the test drive at the dealer and the idle issue beginning? Any "tinkering" at all? As long as the Check Engine light does not illuminate while driving (or it dies on you) just drive the car for several hundred miles. Do NOT disconnect the battery again.......do NOT clean the Throttle Body again.......do not clean the MAF again. Let us know how it goes.
Last edited by oldgrump; 02-12-18 at 09:26 PM.
02-12-18, 10:00 PM
#32
Rookie
Thread Starter
To the original poster.......are you sure nothing was done to this car between the test drive at the dealer and the idle issue beginning? Any "tinkering" at all? As long as the Check Engine light does not illuminate while driving (or it dies on you) just drive the car for several hundred miles. Do NOT disconnect the battery again.......do NOT clean the Throttle Body again.......do not clean the MAF again. Let us know how it goes.
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ESh (02-13-18)
02-13-18, 01:33 AM
#33
So the idle is good in neutral but it goes low in gear and the knock is 18,5 a it should be 21.
The alternator is 13,3 and that’s too low in my opinion.
Would you consider manually adjusting the throttle a bit?
02-15-18, 05:54 PM
#34
Rookie
Thread Starter
Is there any other thing I could be missing? I had a friend get in and he noticed it right away. It's terrible. It's seriously like a Ford freaking Pinto and it sucks mega.
02-15-18, 11:18 PM
#35
Firstly, if the engine is running and in gear but the car is not moving and you have the vibration, it's not a drive axle issue. What's missing here.......the car had only 51k on it when the OP bought it after a test drive where according to the OP it had no issues. Shortly afterwards the low idle and vibration issues started.
Where are you guys getting the idea to "clean" the TB, and the MAF?? Generally not recommended. This is now the fourth auto forum that I've participated in and in every forum where the cars have had electronic (fly by wire) TBs, and Mass Air Flow sensors, a fairly common complaint has been about performance issues immediately after the "cleaning" of one/both of these components with various spray/wet cleaners. Excess fluid can migrate from the throttle bore into the motor/electrical section of the TB. The other issue has been people manually attempting to open (forcibly) the throttle plate during the cleaning, which can damage the TB. If you insist on cleaning the TB, to open the throttle the Ignition is put in the "On mode" (engine not running) and the throttle pedal is used to open the throttle. MAFs can be damaged as well because the actual sensor wire (or film) is pretty delicate and should not be touched, or "blasted" with spray. Also, the Ignition must be OFF so there is no power to the MAF when "cleaning" the MAF with any fluids.
Basically.......with these cars, if the engine has no performance issues then cleaning the TB and MAF accomplishes nothing. With a properly installed OEM engine air filter the MAF should be subjected to very little contamination. The intake duct downstream of the crankcase vent tube connector, and the TB bore/throttle plate may have a visible film of oil but normally it should not cause a problem. If there is "excessive" oil in the intake it can be because the driver has a lead foot a lot of the time, or the PCV valve could be the cause.
With the cleaning of the TB and MAF obviously the intake ducting was disturbed.......are you sure that the duct is properly reinstalled and the clamps are snug? Are you absolutely sure that there are no vacuum leaks (no whistling noises that decrease with opening of the throttle)?. Can we assume the intake air cleaner is reasonably clean?
With the two cars above and because of the description of the low idle, and with what sounds like what could be a "miss", I'm wondering (even with no mention of the Check Engine Light ever being illuminated and with no related codes) could this be an ignition coil (or spark plug?) issue?
Where are you guys getting the idea to "clean" the TB, and the MAF?? Generally not recommended. This is now the fourth auto forum that I've participated in and in every forum where the cars have had electronic (fly by wire) TBs, and Mass Air Flow sensors, a fairly common complaint has been about performance issues immediately after the "cleaning" of one/both of these components with various spray/wet cleaners. Excess fluid can migrate from the throttle bore into the motor/electrical section of the TB. The other issue has been people manually attempting to open (forcibly) the throttle plate during the cleaning, which can damage the TB. If you insist on cleaning the TB, to open the throttle the Ignition is put in the "On mode" (engine not running) and the throttle pedal is used to open the throttle. MAFs can be damaged as well because the actual sensor wire (or film) is pretty delicate and should not be touched, or "blasted" with spray. Also, the Ignition must be OFF so there is no power to the MAF when "cleaning" the MAF with any fluids.
Basically.......with these cars, if the engine has no performance issues then cleaning the TB and MAF accomplishes nothing. With a properly installed OEM engine air filter the MAF should be subjected to very little contamination. The intake duct downstream of the crankcase vent tube connector, and the TB bore/throttle plate may have a visible film of oil but normally it should not cause a problem. If there is "excessive" oil in the intake it can be because the driver has a lead foot a lot of the time, or the PCV valve could be the cause.
With the cleaning of the TB and MAF obviously the intake ducting was disturbed.......are you sure that the duct is properly reinstalled and the clamps are snug? Are you absolutely sure that there are no vacuum leaks (no whistling noises that decrease with opening of the throttle)?. Can we assume the intake air cleaner is reasonably clean?
With the two cars above and because of the description of the low idle, and with what sounds like what could be a "miss", I'm wondering (even with no mention of the Check Engine Light ever being illuminated and with no related codes) could this be an ignition coil (or spark plug?) issue?
Last edited by oldgrump; 02-15-18 at 11:23 PM.
02-16-18, 03:36 AM
#36
I guess so, but you're having the same problem, right? You've replaced everything except the whole car lol. It concerns me because when I turn on my AC, the idle is well above 600, and the roughness is still there when it's in gear. Plus, the fact that the roughness only exists when the powertrain is engaged, I think it's something more than just a low idle. Could it be an axle? I saw mention of a water pump somewhere? The dealership knew that it was driving me crazy, and knew I'd spend any reasonable amount of money to fix it - and the fact that they came up empty-handed concerns me, to be honest. Even the motor mounts were fine...
Is there any other thing I could be missing? I had a friend get in and he noticed it right away. It's terrible. It's seriously like a Ford freaking Pinto and it sucks mega.
Is there any other thing I could be missing? I had a friend get in and he noticed it right away. It's terrible. It's seriously like a Ford freaking Pinto and it sucks mega.
With the AC on mine works fine, and it also works OK if I slightly press the gas pedal. It works like a charm when the rpm is a little bit over 600 mark.
So, I think turning the glued screw a bit would make things better.
02-16-18, 06:42 AM
#37
Firstly, if the engine is running and in gear but the car is not moving and you have the vibration, it's not a drive axle issue. What's missing here.......the car had only 51k on it when the OP bought it after a test drive where according to the OP it had no issues. Shortly afterwards the low idle and vibration issues started.
Where are you guys getting the idea to "clean" the TB, and the MAF?? Generally not recommended. This is now the fourth auto forum that I've participated in and in every forum where the cars have had electronic (fly by wire) TBs, and Mass Air Flow sensors, a fairly common complaint has been about performance issues immediately after the "cleaning" of one/both of these components with various spray/wet cleaners. Excess fluid can migrate from the throttle bore into the motor/electrical section of the TB. The other issue has been people manually attempting to open (forcibly) the throttle plate during the cleaning, which can damage the TB. If you insist on cleaning the TB, to open the throttle the Ignition is put in the "On mode" (engine not running) and the throttle pedal is used to open the throttle. MAFs can be damaged as well because the actual sensor wire (or film) is pretty delicate and should not be touched, or "blasted" with spray. Also, the Ignition must be OFF so there is no power to the MAF when "cleaning" the MAF with any fluids.
Basically.......with these cars, if the engine has no performance issues then cleaning the TB and MAF accomplishes nothing. With a properly installed OEM engine air filter the MAF should be subjected to very little contamination. The intake duct downstream of the crankcase vent tube connector, and the TB bore/throttle plate may have a visible film of oil but normally it should not cause a problem. If there is "excessive" oil in the intake it can be because the driver has a lead foot a lot of the time, or the PCV valve could be the cause.
With the cleaning of the TB and MAF obviously the intake ducting was disturbed.......are you sure that the duct is properly reinstalled and the clamps are snug? Are you absolutely sure that there are no vacuum leaks (no whistling noises that decrease with opening of the throttle)?. Can we assume the intake air cleaner is reasonably clean?
With the two cars above and because of the description of the low idle, and with what sounds like what could be a "miss", I'm wondering (even with no mention of the Check Engine Light ever being illuminated and with no related codes) could this be an ignition coil (or spark plug?) issue?
Where are you guys getting the idea to "clean" the TB, and the MAF?? Generally not recommended. This is now the fourth auto forum that I've participated in and in every forum where the cars have had electronic (fly by wire) TBs, and Mass Air Flow sensors, a fairly common complaint has been about performance issues immediately after the "cleaning" of one/both of these components with various spray/wet cleaners. Excess fluid can migrate from the throttle bore into the motor/electrical section of the TB. The other issue has been people manually attempting to open (forcibly) the throttle plate during the cleaning, which can damage the TB. If you insist on cleaning the TB, to open the throttle the Ignition is put in the "On mode" (engine not running) and the throttle pedal is used to open the throttle. MAFs can be damaged as well because the actual sensor wire (or film) is pretty delicate and should not be touched, or "blasted" with spray. Also, the Ignition must be OFF so there is no power to the MAF when "cleaning" the MAF with any fluids.
Basically.......with these cars, if the engine has no performance issues then cleaning the TB and MAF accomplishes nothing. With a properly installed OEM engine air filter the MAF should be subjected to very little contamination. The intake duct downstream of the crankcase vent tube connector, and the TB bore/throttle plate may have a visible film of oil but normally it should not cause a problem. If there is "excessive" oil in the intake it can be because the driver has a lead foot a lot of the time, or the PCV valve could be the cause.
With the cleaning of the TB and MAF obviously the intake ducting was disturbed.......are you sure that the duct is properly reinstalled and the clamps are snug? Are you absolutely sure that there are no vacuum leaks (no whistling noises that decrease with opening of the throttle)?. Can we assume the intake air cleaner is reasonably clean?
With the two cars above and because of the description of the low idle, and with what sounds like what could be a "miss", I'm wondering (even with no mention of the Check Engine Light ever being illuminated and with no related codes) could this be an ignition coil (or spark plug?) issue?
02-16-18, 10:53 AM
#38
Moderator
Is there a sensor to increase idle when the transmission is placed into gear? If so, is it external to the transmission such that it could be tested and maybe replaced?
02-16-18, 11:51 AM
#39
It should increase the idle like it increases when turn the steering wheel or when you turn the ac compressor on, but it’s not happening for some reason, and I think there’s no sensor for it.
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dmullen137 (02-18-18)
02-16-18, 04:22 PM
#40
I just did a quick check today when I had my 2010 out. At idle in park it is 650 rpm. When I move the selector to drive with my foot on the brake the idle drops to 605 rpm. Also my AUTO heat/AC system is always on. Readings were taken using my Torque Pro app from the OBDII port. This is ECM information. Oh water temp is at 197* F
02-17-18, 12:31 AM
#41
Any vibrations?
02-17-18, 04:30 AM
#42
02-17-18, 04:59 AM
#43
I mean, when I say “any vibrations”, can you feel the engine running on the steering wheel?
02-17-18, 06:00 AM
#44
If I squeeze it yes a little but nothing that would be noticeable . I don't think it feels any different than any other car I own except my 2016 chevy PU. The 5.3 V8 is not a smooth idling engine
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dmullen137 (02-18-18)
05-06-18, 09:30 AM
#45
I took my 09 ES350 to the dealer right before 50,000 miles for a rough idle, the service writer said all ES350 do that, nothing wrong with it. A year later I replace all the Diamond Coils with Denso coils packs and the rough idle all but went away. I am thinking the Diamond coil packs was the issue >