So I'm here getting an alignment and the guy who moved my car said, "it feels like it's gonna die on me!" Uhhhhh yeah that's not good. So I'm just curious to know where the smart money gets spent trying to fix this thing! Longo wants $160 to even look at it. Should I start there?

 

 

The ES350 is a fly by wire throttle system. The throttle body has a throttle motor as well as it's IAC all in one assembly. There isn't parts available to do the rebuild by a DIY type but you can buy rebuilt throttle body assemblies. I have not seen the voltage requirements or a way to test the unit out . I suspect that a dealer would have this capability with their diagnostic system. If you look at the throttle body you will see a black plastic side cover that is screwed on to it. Inside is the throttle motor and the air valve. Also the accelerator peddle has the signal unit on it that signals the TB. This is another area that needs to be diagnosed which requires the knowledge of the voltages . So if it costs $150+/- to put it on the tester then you need to pay the freight or live with what you have.
https://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/...ic&pt_adgroup=[47-6]%20Throttle%20Body&msclkid=4941545205b5176dddc60e2efe04400f&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(ROI)%20Shopping%20-%20All%20MAPs%20-%20Year%20Specific&utm_term=4582695745696168&utm_content=%5B47-6%5D%20Throttle%20Body

 

Thanks so much for all the replies. So I did get the throttle body cleaned and the ECU subsequently reset afterward this afternoon. I'm going to say that I really don't notice much as far as an improvement. He mentioned that the computer is still learning, so it could theoretically improve as time goes on. He seemed to think that it's better, but I'm not seeing it .I don't feel like it was a complete waste of $114, but whatever. It's ruled out!

I think I'm going to invest the $160 for an hour's worth of Longo Lexus diagnosis time to see if they can find anything else. I just wish it felt more like my 2006 ES did! I LOVE this car, but this rough idle is really bugging me!

 

I'm experiencing a similar problem and I know I'm not going crazy because the car rode and idled differently prior of the same exact symptoms your explaining! My guess is its a busted motor mount, specifically the dog bone motor mount.

 

 

Does your idle kind of bounce around as you're coming to a stop? Mine almost gets forced down to about 550RPM - especially if I brake quickly. It kind of hovers around 1k, and then abruptly gets shoved down sub-600RPM when I reach 0MPH..I wish there was a little screw that we could turn half a turn and close the hood and be done with this!

 

If you look at the picture of the throttle body I posted above I see what looks like possibly an adjustment screw on the lower right corner of the photo. I don't know if it is but if anyone has removed their TB maybe they could chime in and tell us what is in the hole. It could be the base idle setting screw which would be sealed after adjustment. If it is it would be a mechanical stop which would allow for opening/closing the throttle plate to a fixed position. So if anyone has removed the TB what is this hole for.

 

I'm located in orange county near south coast plaza. Would like to see your car in person to see the similaraties in our symptoms!

 

 

Yeah mine does go up about 200 RPM and essentially eliminates the rough idle when I turn the wheel a bit. When I let go, and the power steering pump isn't bogging down the motor, the rough idle resumes. I can't believe there isn't a known fix to this.

I took the car to a dealer in Glendale to have it diagnosed for $181. Geez. I took the service advisor for a drive and he couldn't feel anything wrong. They're going to check it out tomorrow and I'll let you know of any findings. Damn I sure hope they find something - and I can't believe I'm saying that. More to follow!

 

 

Just like we thought, they found nothing. It's all operating within specifications. They did do a really thorough inspection and provided me a detailed printout of all the sensors and their readouts. There was a knock sensor percentage which appeared lower than the ideal percentage of like 21% - mine showed 18ish% - which is weird considering I though knocks were bad and the lower the better.

As far as gas, again, I'm just going to keep using Shell 91 and try and floor it a couple times a week to keep things blown out. I checked air filters and cleaned MAF sensors.

Case closed with no resolution...at least I got a car wash for my $181

Thanks for all the replies. I love this forum and I'm thankful for all the insight!

 

 

Absolutely. Sorry for the delay. I have attached a .pdf that has everything. Thanks again for everybody's input! Now back to driving the damn thing rather than worrying if something's wrong with her!