igzy

Good morning fellow ES'ers! Thought to share my experience with the ES as our cars gracefully age. Over the past few months I spend quite a bit of time and $$ on keeping it on the road so here's what I went through with mine, the car is now at 120K+:

- Excessive vibration on hard acceleration: at first I thought it was the wheel balance, then engine mounts. After I replaced the winter tires with summer wheels and changed the front (active) engine mount, the problem remained. Then I noticed that the vibration was apparent during right hand turning while accelerating, e.g. merging hwy from a right hand ramp. This signaled CV, so I replaced the RH drive shaft and the shaft bearing which was seized. No more vibration

- Vibration while braking: after I replaced the front pads and rotors, vibration reduced, but not eliminated. I then went on to replace the rear set. problem eliminated! Want to note that I had already replaced the fronts a year before with "higher quality aftermarket" parts, but they lasted only a year of "normal" driving/commuting. This time I added a few $$ to get OEM parts

- The other drive shaft: while doing the brakes, I noted that the LH drive shaft inner boot was leaking at the engine side, looked like clamp let go, so had to replace that one too. Other than leak, there were no concerns with vibrations on that one

- Spark plugs: I replaced them at 120K exactly using OEM parts. Also replaced the PCV. The rear bank plugs by the firewall can be replaced without taking the surge tank off. It is easier to work on them without, but with long arms and right extensions can be done. Note here: all connector clips on the coils were brittle and they all broke, so I had to secure them all with zip ties, while I replaced some of them as well. So, be ready! I also broke a wire on the camshaft sensor, it broke while trying to disconnect it, it too was brittle. I had to replace that connector too as the wire broke going into it.

- Steering wheel audio controls: yup, mine peeled too. I bought a later model year used set of controls and replaced them that don't have the "skin". Later I found a seller on eBay who re-skins them for $50. Oh well

- Muffler heat shields: both rusted around the studs and were resting/rattling on the top of the mufflers. I secured them with lids of cans as large washers. Those lids are coated so they won't rust any time soon A cheap DIY

- TPMS: mine didn't work correctly from day I got the car, and with the second set of wheels for winter, I didn't want to get extra $ensors, so I disabled the TPMS to get rid of the nagging dash light. I posted how-to here in the forum

- Shifter console light: my next repair project. The light intermittently works, I bought a new bulb #74, will replace it over the next few days...

- HID, brake bulbs: also recently replaced...

Any questions on above or anything else, how-to on any of them, feel free to ask and happy motoring!

kodavis

Did you use aftermarket or OEM axles? I had the right axle shaft and oil seal replaced on my 2008 but went aftermarket because the OEM part price was crazy high... Like $500 or something like that.

I just learned my lesson regarding aftermarket vs. OEM brake parts. I'm using OEM parts from here on out, as long as I can afford to.

chuyrobles

We're approaching 210K on our ES350. Two weekends ago, I replaced the plugs for the second time, with NGK Iridiums. Even with the intake manifold off, I had a hard time replacing the rear plugs due to the wiring harness. At least I don't have to worry about that again as we plan on getting a new car in a couple of years, but may give the car to one of our nieces/nephews.

Replaced the OEM radiator at 133K. It had started to leak coolant at the top seal, engine side. Replaced with CSF aftermarket radiator.

Replaced OEM alternator at 155K with reman from O'Reillys - replaced at 178K under the lifetime warranty. The decoupler pulley in the OEM alternator froze and fried the alt. Gates sells replacement ADP kits and recommends replacing them at 100K - something you don't see mentioned in the car's maintenance schedule.

I need to start worrying about replacing the water pump as preventive maintenance. That doesn't look like an easy job. I may pay a mechanic to replace it.

igzy

The RH one was a CarQuest rebuilt one, the LH was a Cardone Select new shaft. Yeah, I was quoted $500 for a Toyota axle and $700 for a "Lexus" one :P
And yes, I also replaced the AT housing / axle seals at the same time as a preventative (experience from our RAV4 seal leaks at high mileage)

Agreed. I am too poor to buy cheap stuff when it comes to brakes
Over the years of DIY projects on the car, I've learnt that for some parts, like brakes, OEM last the longest. Other don't seem to matter or are even better than OEM, like for our Mazda3 with shocks and swaybar end-links...

igzy

The first time I did it, I did take off the intake / surge tank, but when I was troubleshooting the broken wiring and connectors issues, I could totally get in there without taking it off and remove the coils, plugs, etc. That time I only took off the strut bar and engine covers. Being tall helped in that situation

Due to pump's length, my understanding is that the engine needs to be pulled out for replacement of the WP. If any knows a way of doing it without taking the engine out please share!

I have no intentions of PMing this part. I will put it on my "if it ain't broke - don't fix" list

nevernu

There is a way of doing the water pump by simply lifting the engine a bit

igzy

Good to know for just in case Thank you!!