Wes45

The boots are shot, fluid is leaking and I've been delaying the repair for the past 6 months. Indy shop and dealer both quoting $1300 for replacement and I have a few questions:

1. The Lexus OEM assembly is $1400 retail, best price I can find online is around $1000. So obviously for $1300 neither shop is replacing the entire assembly with a new OEM one. I've found a local shop that rebuilds rack assemblies, plus I see you can buy refurbed ones so I assume the shops are doing that? Anyone know what they are doing for $1300? (I know, I'll ask them as well)

2. I watched a Youtube video with a Japanese guy changing one, looks like he swapped out the defective assembly with an OEM new assembly. It did not show much more detail other than his hands reaching up into the car and then the part coming out. I'm wondering if this would be a DIY'er job if I go to a place where you can rent a lift? If so, I could either replace it with the OEM part and save $300 or go find a rebuilt unit and save $1000 or so.

Any suggestions? I'm a bit more nervous with this than a strut replacement. I'm a DIY'er but feel more confident if a real mechanic is looking over my shoulder.
Thanks and Happy New Year!

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

No other company is making a R&P for this so it's either OEM new, remanufactured (meets oem new specs) or rebuilt (new seals, bushings, & tie rods)... Pricing is most expensive to least.

As for the job, its not that bad. Biggest mistake some make is spinning the steering wheel with rack out and recking the clock spring. Basically just before pulling the rack, center the wheel and run the seatbelt through it to secure it so the clock spring remain centered turns wise.

Drop the rack and accurately measure the total length from tie rod end to the other tie rod end jamb nut while placing the main mounting bolt of the rack at a fixed location. You'll want the rack centered for this and the tie rods straight. The use of carpenters squares comes to mind and mark up the floor. Move the old rack and put it back on the marks. REPEAT your measurements. If you can duplicate your measurements now its time to set up the new rack like the old one. Center it, and adjust total tie rod length to be like the old rack.

In short, when you put the new rack in and the total length from tie rod end to tie rod end is the same, the Toe will be what it was and it safe to drive but your wheel may be off center. Make sense?

If you've never done this, grab a service manual and read it. Double check everything you touch.

Wes45

I paid $20 for an on-line manual that basically is worthless, I'll invest in a real manual before attempting this. Thanks for the tips, I did see the Japanese guy doing something as you have described so it makes sense. I'll try to find out what exactly the indy shop and dealership would be using and try to go that route. The OEM new replacement seems to be a bit of overkill and would cost almost the same as having a shop do it.

nevernu

maybe something here is useful

k7q

iTrader: (37)

Rack & pinon job is pretty hard to do as a diy. You might spend a day on it, if it's your first time. First time I did it on a lift took me about 3-3.5 hours, now I got it down to 1 hour. Shop around on prices. They should be charging you to replace the rack and maybe alignment. I charge less that half that to replace a rack & pinion, but I'm in southern California.

How much are they selling rack in your area? I seen some remanufactured rack on n eBay for about $150-200, no core needed in return. You can check rockauto also if you plan on diy.

Wes45

I found this rack for $270, now just need to find a place to rent a lift for a day. There were 2 places in the DFW area that used to rent bays by the hour but it appears that they both went out of business.
http://shop.rackdoctor.net/2007-2009...6995-30200.htm

saadcee

The service manual posted states to remove the engine and trans. Is this necessary? When i did my IS i only had to take off the suspension brace.