2007 ES 350 Axle issues
03-01-18, 01:32 PM
#17
Just got both axles (left and right) replaced. I'd love to have bought oem but the price difference was crazy. Bought both online for about $200 with extended warranty and shipping. Rides much better now. Smoother.
On another note, the guy who worked on my car (family friend who charged $200 labor) said one axle was pretty much dry and a bearing was noticeably bad. Both axles were in need of replacement. Disappointed that my local toyota dealer didn't recognize this when they replaced my steering rack and struts recently.
On another note, the guy who worked on my car (family friend who charged $200 labor) said one axle was pretty much dry and a bearing was noticeably bad. Both axles were in need of replacement. Disappointed that my local toyota dealer didn't recognize this when they replaced my steering rack and struts recently.
03-01-18, 03:16 PM
#18
Feq. Hard to say how they are holding up really. I’m still getting a vibration upon acceleration that I think is from the tranny mount so I couldn’t really report on the axles because of that.
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bucfan22 (03-01-18)
03-01-18, 08:32 PM
#19
My Indy offers same FEQ front set for $200 plus labor too, while others like Cardone select are about $130/set. Price wise for these aftermarket are compatible but the cost of labor is quite a lot, hope it will solve the problem
03-06-18, 11:49 AM
#20
well didn't have much lucky today about fixing the axles. Got a call from mechanic that they spend more than 3 hours trying to take the passenger axle out and it stuck at the axle carrier. They request cutting the carrier that i have to pay for it plus 3 additional hours on top of what estimate (instead of $500 now it almost $900) so i decided not to do it. Now the Driver axle is new and but passenger side is not.
04-20-18, 12:08 AM
#21
Wife's 07 ES350 started vibrating on acceleration a couple of months ago. I replaced the motor mounts - the center one, by the radiator, was broken, yet the vibrations got worse! Tonight, replaced the passenger side CV axle and no more vibrations. Paid $60 for Cardone # 66-5265 on Amazon, and $12 for the seal, Napa # 16194. I read horror stories about the carrier bearing freezing due to rust, but ours slid right out. The most difficult part was re-installing the C-clip. Lost a little bit of ATF when i removed the shaft but just a little and I added quarter quart. I also bought the driver-side shaft and seal but I'm in no hurry replacing it if the car remains vibration free.
04-20-18, 09:31 AM
#22
You must be lucky with that bearing thing. My indy gave up. i have to take the car home and do it myself after watching youtube. I cut the axle both side of the bearing to remove it from the car and it take awhile to hammer it out of the bearing. When i pull my axle out no transmission oil came out at all. And i didn't know about Seal. Was it to replace the one already inside transmission? I watched a few youtube but no one mention it so i didn't know. Wish i have known about it before hand. Now I have to go under the car next time changing oil to make sure no leaking oil. And yes reinstalling the C-clip is PIA especially for first timer and probably not correct tool.
04-20-18, 11:04 PM
#23
Could you have unbolted the carrier bearing bracket? I saw some videos where that was done.
Yes, there is a trany seal on each side of trany where axles slide in. Replacing it helps ensure no leaks after installing the new one. Hopefully, you got no leaks. I’ve had leaks before and its very demoralizing putting it all together and you get a leak. Driver-side was a little tricky as there is no backstop; if not careful, the new seal can get pushed into the trany.
I don't think you need a special tool for the C clip. I used channel lock pliers. I struggled setting the clip in the groove until the light bulb turned on and I used a screwdriver to guide the clip into place.
Yes, there is a trany seal on each side of trany where axles slide in. Replacing it helps ensure no leaks after installing the new one. Hopefully, you got no leaks. I’ve had leaks before and its very demoralizing putting it all together and you get a leak. Driver-side was a little tricky as there is no backstop; if not careful, the new seal can get pushed into the trany.
I don't think you need a special tool for the C clip. I used channel lock pliers. I struggled setting the clip in the groove until the light bulb turned on and I used a screwdriver to guide the clip into place.
01-27-20, 02:12 PM
#25
Check the Leus part number for these front CV axles, now, check the part numbers for same year Camry (V6) and the Avalon. Same part number, from same bin in Toyota parts factory.
I've had front wheel drive cars since 1973, over 45 years, the technology is not new, nor is it "high-tech", steel shafts, gears, ball bearings, universal joints, rubber boots and grease. CV joints can run for a long long time, as long as the rubber boots hold up, and thus they maintain grease in the joint. When the boot fails, there's grease everywhere, failure is usually due to something hitting and tearing the boot, or old age at 15-20 years, you now need a new half-shaft.
I've successfully used new (*Not* rebuilt) aftermarket items from Rock Auto, Autozone, Advance, etc. For me, at around $250/side, they've held up for the 30-40,000 miles I've driven before I ended up replacing the car. I watched the mechanics replacing the passenger side on my old Avalon, actual labor involved for these guys -who knew exactly what they were doing- was under 1/2 hour per side, but call it an hour. $100 axle + $125 labor ... $250/side is a righteous price.
The $1,200 - $2,500 I've heard Lexus dealers have quoted, is for people with too much money, too little knowledge and too much fear about automobiles. These are ultimately MAINTENANCE items, like brake pads, batteries, water pumps, they will go out at some point.
I've had front wheel drive cars since 1973, over 45 years, the technology is not new, nor is it "high-tech", steel shafts, gears, ball bearings, universal joints, rubber boots and grease. CV joints can run for a long long time, as long as the rubber boots hold up, and thus they maintain grease in the joint. When the boot fails, there's grease everywhere, failure is usually due to something hitting and tearing the boot, or old age at 15-20 years, you now need a new half-shaft.
I've successfully used new (*Not* rebuilt) aftermarket items from Rock Auto, Autozone, Advance, etc. For me, at around $250/side, they've held up for the 30-40,000 miles I've driven before I ended up replacing the car. I watched the mechanics replacing the passenger side on my old Avalon, actual labor involved for these guys -who knew exactly what they were doing- was under 1/2 hour per side, but call it an hour. $100 axle + $125 labor ... $250/side is a righteous price.
The $1,200 - $2,500 I've heard Lexus dealers have quoted, is for people with too much money, too little knowledge and too much fear about automobiles. These are ultimately MAINTENANCE items, like brake pads, batteries, water pumps, they will go out at some point.
Last edited by Riick; 02-03-20 at 06:17 AM.
01-27-20, 03:52 PM
#26
yea i just picked up a higher mileage (150k) es that has a vibration issue going on. it may need cv axles. right now going to do tie rods inner and outer because they seemed shot. Im hoping this helps with my vibration issue. Thinking I may possibly have a bad mount that ill be checking tomortrow when i get to the tie rods because i have a slight vibration when in gear.
01-27-20, 06:32 PM
#28
Ya got quoted by local indy shop 250 each side, but said it could go up if the passenger is seized. I'll do the drivers side myself. While I'm under there doing tie rods I'm going to soak the mount for the passenger side in pb and do that periodically for as long as I can hold off in hopes that it let's it pop out. My father's a mechanic/body guy and said he has done a few where he had to use one of the body machines to rip the bearing out. Probably going to do the water pump soon because I don't know when it was replaced.
01-28-20, 04:50 PM
#29
Ya got quoted by local indy shop 250 each side, but said it could go up if the passenger is seized. I'll do the drivers side myself. While I'm under there doing tie rods I'm going to soak the mount for the passenger side in pb and do that periodically for as long as I can hold off in hopes that it let's it pop out. My father's a mechanic/body guy and said he has done a few where he had to use one of the body machines to rip the bearing out. Probably going to do the water pump soon because I don't know when it was replaced.
01-28-20, 04:51 PM
#30
I am just an average diy by watching a lot of youtube for anything i do on car and i did the passenger side by myself after my mechanic gave up trying to pull it out with all special tool they have. I did it by using jigsaw to cut both side of the carrier. Once outside it just takes few hammer to remove the axle part from the carrier. I used FEQ as well and it is holding up quite well. no more shaking. If you can do the driver side then i am sure you can do the passenger side.
