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This front wheel bearing how-to leaves the knuckle in place, preserving wheel alignment specs but requiring the purchase of extra tools. I'll point out where to remove the knuckle and take it to a shop to replace the bearing for you. You'll have easy access to the lower ball joint; so, it may not be a bad idea to replace it also.
Parts (what I purchased, on Amazon): Dura International 29596059 Wheel Hub Kit - includes bearing, hub, axle nut (32mm, 6 point), and snap ring ($45) - no longer recommended.
Dorman 930-400 hub ($24; comes with OEM style axle nut);
Dorman retaining ring 933-457. ($5)
Timken bearing 510063 ($33)
Moog K500043 - lower ball joint passenger side ($28)
Moog K500044 - lower ball joint, driver side
Bolt 3/4" 4.5" length and matching nut - this will be your striking pin to punch out the hub
Threadlocker - medium strength, for BJ bolts and brake splash guard bolts.
1 Cotter Pin - for tie rod
Washers 25/32" ID, 1-5/8" OD, 5/32" thick - strongly recommend you buy at least 4 to augment the hub/bearing kit mentioned below. Don't get 3/4" washers as the hole is too large; the 25/32 ID is perfect for 3/4 bolts, including the one in the hub/bearing kit. Washers are 63 cents for 2 on Amazon. The description is:1010 Steel Flat.
or, if you prefer OEM (parts I didn't purchased):
90080-36193 Bearing (about $60)
43502-AA021 Hub (about $115)
90080-17238 Axle Nut (about $6)
90520-77001 Snap Ring (about $5)
43330-39845 Front Ball Joint Passenger, replaces 43330-39775
43340-39605 Front Ball Joint Driver, replaces 43340-39545
43246-28020 ABS Dust Deflector (about $13) - needed if yours is too rusty, or you damage it.
Tools:
Betooll HW0059 - to remove/install the bearing, and install, but not remove, the hub; appears identical to ATD 8625; ABN 23; 8Milelake 21pc; Arksen 23pc; and others.
Ratchet & Breaker Bar - half inch; I have a HF $13 25-inch breaker bar that stood up to the job
30mm Deep Socket 12 pt - axle nut
27mm Socket (or 1 1/16") 6pt - for the bolt in the hub/bearing kit
22mm Socket 6 pt - if removing struts
21mm Deep Socket 6pt - wheel lugs
19mm Socket - if removing lower ball joint
17mm Socket - tie rod; brake caliper bracket; and sway bar
14mm Socket - brake caliper bolts on bracket
14mm Open Wrench - to hold caliper sliding bolt nut
12mm Socket - bolt on knuckle holding brake hose and ABS sensor wire
10mm Socket - ABS sensor
3/8 Wrench - zerk fitting on Moog BJ
Torque Wrench
Crescent Wrench - that opens at least 1 1/4", for the nut in the hub/bearing kit
Bent Needle Nose Pliers - to remove bearing snap ring; pliers need to be strong
2-3' Pry Bar - to raise/lower the lower control arm (LCA) when separating from BJ; and locks wheel when removing axle nut
Sledgehammer - 5 to 7 lb works best, for removing hub
3/4" bolt, about 6 inches long, with 3/4 washers and a nut - this will be your striking pin to remove the hub from the knuckle
Long Screwdriver - for removing ABS dust deflector
Small Punch - to 'unstake' the axle nut, and to stake the new axle nut
Cords/bungee - to hold up axle shaft and brake caliper
3" Grinder - if re-using the hub; grinder needed to cut off bearing race (see 2nd video, below)
Misc - Penetrating Lubricant; Safety Glasses; Gloves; Rags; Brake Parts Cleaner; Anti-seize lubricant; Wire Brush; Band Aids;
Note regarding the bearing/hub tool set. The weak point of this tool set and others is the bolt. It's a 3/4-16 7.25" bolt with no markings as to the grade. The common complaint is stripped threads. It's difficult finding a fully threaded 3/4" grade 8 bolt - found one on Zoro, part# G2516090; it's a 3/4-10 9" grade 8 bolt ($18 and worth it). Or, for under $20 you can purchase two partially threaded grade 8 bolts: a 6.5" and an 8". Get Zoro's matching coupling nut, part# G3128045 ($8).
YouTube Videos - None exist for this exact procedure but here are some very helpful videos:
This comes the closest to this thread; it's for a Corolla; a slide hammer is used to remove the hub; knuckle stays on the car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IcUFGM0wWk
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On a Camry; removes hub and knuckle; uses 20-ton press to replace bearing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5N0RhO2uDo
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On a Sienna; removes hub and knuckle; don't know why he removes ABS wiring from engine wire harness. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NbcVKxhlTA
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. Steps:
1. Place front end on jacks, and remove wheels/tires - tires 3 inches from the ground is sufficient
2. Remove wheels calipers, rotor, and tire rod (in this order) - see videos for tips on removing tie rod.
3. Remove upper nut on the sway bar, and push out that part of the sway bar - will make it easier to separate LCA from BJ later on
4. Unstake the axle nut - you can see the indentation in pic; use thin screwdriver or chisel. Unstake it fully or you will damage the shaft threads.
5. Remove axle nut - if you have a helper, they can step on brakes while you remove the axle nut.
If you don't have a helper, install two lug nuts next to each other and use pry bar to keep axle from turning as you remove the axle nut. These lugs are from my Tacoma, but I used the Lexus lugs to install the nut - just to see if they had enough surface area, and they did.
6. Remove caliper, caliper bracket and rotor - hang caliper on strut coil with bungee or other strap/rope
7. Remove ABS sensor. The end is magnetic - clean the end as it may have ferrous dust. Hang sensor in the strut coil and out of the way.
8. With one hand on CV axle and thumb of other hand on the end of the axle shaft, gently push axle inward; it should slide abut 3 inches. If not tap gently with hammer.
9. Remove the bolt and nuts attaching BJ to LCA - not the castle nut.
10. Use pry bar to separate knuckle/BJ assembly from LCA. There is a notch on LCA you can insert the pry bar for leverage. It may help to rotate strut assembly
11. Once knuckle/BJ assembly is separated from LCA, you can move axle shaft from the assembly and hang it high out of the way.
Do 12a or 12b.
12a. At this point, if you don't want to remove the bearing yourself, or you will be using a press, remove the two strut bolts and pull off the knuckle/BJ assembly - see 2nd and 3rd videos.
12b. Re-attach knuckle/BJ assembly to the LCA and bolt it back up. This holds assembly in place when you hammer out the hub.
13. Remove ABS dust deflector. Insert screwdriver through ABS sensor opening and gently pry out.
14. Remove bearing lock ring. Wear gloves and eye protection as ring can pop out
15. Hammer out the hub using a 3/4" bolt as a striking pin. I added 2 washers and a nut to hold the bolt in place. Make sure the washers are not wider than 1 3/4" across. The pic in #17 shows how the knuckle was positioned when I started hammering. Strike the bolt progressively harder until you see the hub start to slide out. I used a 7lb old hammer and I didn't have to swing it by the handle; I grabbed one end of the hammer and used the handle to deliver accurate hits. Once I knew the amount of force it took to move the hub, it took about 5 hits for it to come out.
16. If re-using the hub, you'll need to cut off the race that remained on the hub. See videos for how-to
TIP: instead of one diagonal cut, do 2 or 3; this will lessen the tension and will likely loosen the race enough to slide it out by hand or screwdriver.
17. Press remaining bearing race out of the knuckle. From the front, knock out the rear bearing face if it hasn't fallen out - (1st pic below). Move this piece to the front (2nd pic) and press out the bearing using a 2.5" adapter at the front and the 3 5/8" cup and 4" adapter for the rear (3rd pic)
18.. Clean the knuckle bearing surface. Use a wire brush to clean off any rust; most will be at the rear where the ABS dust shield goes. Spray penetrating lube to prep bearing for installation.
19. Press bearing into the knuckle from the rear. Bearing goes in either side; there is no front or rear face. Press it in until it stops; you will feel it hitting the lip. Use 4" adapter at the front over the knuckle opening. For the rear, I first used the 3 5/16" adapter, then when the bearing was sticking out about a quarter inch, I switched to the smaller 3 1/4" adapter. This is because the race's outer face is very thin and the larger adapter makes sure you have full contact for the bearing to be pressed in straight, I also didn't want to risk pressing the adapter into the knuckle as it is almost identical in size to the bearing race. Note: Don't install the bearing in the hub first, and then attempt to install the hub into the knuckle. If you do, you will be pushing the bearing into the knuckle with pressure on the center of the bearing which will likely cause bearing/race separation.
20. Insert bearing lock ring. Once the bearing is pressed into the knuckle, insert the lock ring.
21. Press hub into the bearing. In front I pushed bolt through with two washers; you can use an adapter over the knuckle flange if you want. In the rear use 2.5" adapter with flush side on the inside (so hub doesn't make contact with protrusion side of the adapter). The point is to use the center portion of the bearing on the back. In first video, see min 20:00 to 20:30.
22. Loosen bottom BJ nuts/bolt and separate knuckle/BJ assembly from LCA. BJ can be replaced a this point. Removing brake dust shield may help to remove the BJ - make sure to use threadlocker when re-tightening the bolts. Castle nut torque on the BJ is 91 ft/lbs then keep tightening as needed until cotter pin holes line up (specs from Moog instructions).
23. Prep ABS dust shield and insert into place. Make sure to align the hole in the shield to the ABS sensor hole in the knuckle. I used a bearing adapter to gently tap the shield into place with a small hammer. 'Dry fit' the ABS sensor to make sure it fits through properly.
24, Insert axle shaft into knuckle while simultaneously attaching knuckle/BJ assembly into the LCA. This can be a bit tricky and may require sliding the axle shaft in and out. Use pry pry to lower LCA. Lower nuts/bolt torque is 66 ft/lbs - use threadlocker on the threads.
25. Bolt the ABS sensor into the knuckle.
26. Attach tie rod. Torque is 36 ft/lbs then continue tightening until cotter pin holes line up.
27. Attach sway bar nut. I didn't find torque rating; I went with 40 ft/lbs.
28. Attach axle nut. Torque is 217 ft/lbs. My wrench does not go that high; I used best judgment. Don't forget to stake the nut with a punch.
29. Attach rotor, caliper brake bracket, and caliper. Caliper bracket bolt torque is about 75 ft/lbs; sliding caliper bolt torque is 25 ft/lbs.
30. Attach brake line and speed sensor wire to knuckle.
31. Install tire and go for a test drive.
Last edited by chuyrobles; 05-28-17 at 09:46 PM.
Reason: updating
Very nice write up. This is a tough job. I'm absolutely shocked that a car of this year and caliber doesn't just have hub assemblies. Three bolts in and out...
Wheel bearing in front goes into knuckle. Only rear has hub+bearing assembly. Bearing brands Koyo (OEM), SKF, NTN, Timken (you may get NTN in the box) are recommended. Moog, NAPA, etc are good too.
I don't notice any. The wife drives it 98% and she hasn't commented, and she notices any little thing. They were an experiment purchase - MaxBrakes, Canadian made. Very affordable but I had to get them re-surfaced after a few K miles. Will not get them again.
Cool. You may be out of luck. I put drilled rotors on corolla (still in use) and slotted in honda (replaced). I hear some air woosh sound on corolla and there was a little bit on the slotted ones also but not as much as drilled.
I needed to get the slotted ones resurfaced on the honda. Pepboys said no resurface for drilled or slotted. Only special places might have that equipment for them other than normal shops. After that I just replaced with Centric premium blanks.
I replaced the CV axle shaft assembly and there is a grinding sound similar to when the brakes take hold of the rotor. It gets louder at higher speeds. It's not the brakes holding on to the rotor, but I'm wondering if it's the wheel bearing or a faulty CV axle.
I replaced the CV axle shaft assembly and there is a grinding sound similar to when the brakes take hold of the rotor. It gets louder at higher speeds. It's not the brakes holding on to the rotor, but I'm wondering if it's the wheel bearing or a faulty CV axle.
update: the replacement went fine. I disassembled the entire cv axle and knuckle. I had replaced the bearing in the knuckle with a lower ball joint replacement. I rotated the bearing and it was so rough. Now I'm going to replace it and i should be ok. This all started with going to the tire shop because of the strong vibration shimmy. It was the cv axle, but the new grinding is from the bearing.
Love the build! Do you have more pics of the hood scoop, I remember you saying its been wrapped and not actual CF, but curious on the type of wrap you chose and how it resembles to the rear CF on the car. Thanks in advance!
What did you determine to be the cause of the grinding ? I have a similar problem . Replaced right front hub and bearing and cv axle and still have the sound . Thought it was the transmission .Took it ta transmission shop and was advised it was not a gear sound or anything associated with the transmission.
08-21-16, 03:45 AM
ES350 Front Wheel Bearing Removal & Installation
