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I had a '99 Town Car that had the same problem when new. Diagnosed as the torque converter in the transmission. I do not know if, being fwd transaxle, our cars have the traditional torque converter.
I asked my mechanic to flush/drain and change the transmission filter on my 2007 ES 350. However, he had problems dropping the pan because it is blocked by the frame and/or motor mount! He was able to finally get it, but for him to complain "that it was tight" means that for mere mortals, it would be nearly impossible. (He's a darn good mechanic!!)
It's really not that bad. . There is one inaccessible bolt that becomes easy to access by lifting up the engine about two inches. You unbolt the driver side and front side engine mounts. I was actually able to remove the bolt without raising the engine, but getting it started was impossible to me without lifting the motor. The risk of crossing the threads was too high.
Well, my mechanic was able to get it. Afterwards, he said the same thing -- it wasn't that bad. However, to get the problem bolt out required a short socket and a wobble. He was able to thread it in my hand to get it started and avoid any chance of cross threading.
Unfortunately, after it was all over, I realized that I had given him the wrong ATF -- I gave him T-IV instead of WS. From everything I could find, apparently Toyota decided to change from T-IV to WS in the 2006-2007 years even though many of their transmissions were EXACTLY the same. T-IV is conventional oil, while WS is synthetic so the WS may last a little longer. Also, there are some claims that WS is thinner and gives high gas mileage, but I call bull***** on that - I doubt if that is realistically measurable in anything but a lab.
Well, long story short, it's doing fine with T-IV and I plan to let it run for about 30-40K before having a trans flush done at which point I will have WS put in it. (I figure this is well before the conventional oil should start to break down.) It does shift better (quicker) than before. The old oil wasn't too bad, a little brownish. I have 50k miles on the car.
WS is in many Toyota's, if not most, from 07 onward. Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF is an established replacement for IV and WS. I have it in all my Toyota products, two of which call for WS. Available at Walmart for about $18 a gallon.
It was easier and quicker than I expected. The first three quarts of old fluid I removed were as black as used engine oil at the start and a bright (but not clear) red when I was finished.
I measured all my fluid out and matched it with fluid in, plus the 200ml as indicated in the instructions. It was easy to do. I simply marked off a plastic gallon milk container into quarts and poured my pan flushings into this container at every step. The flushing steps are precisely two quarts each and that makes it easy to keep track.
The end of it all is that my transmission is happier and I'm happier too. No oil is eternal, and even though Lexus claims their WS transmission fluid is good forever they're not the ones paying to replace my transmission should it fail. This simple flush and refill is cheap peace of mind.
In the interests of having everything in one place here are KBRX330's instructions which I've modified to clear up some points based on my experience.
MATERIALS
3/8" ratchet
torque wrench (not strictly required)
6mm allen socket
24mm socket
10mm socket
short extension
pliers
oil drain pan
1 gallon graduated container
oil waste container (able to accept 12 quarts)
IR thermometer (not strictly required - you need to verify the fluid temperature is 104°F)
funnel with 2' hose attached
4-6" piece of 3/8" clear tubing
12 quarts (one case) of WS ATF (more if you want cleaner results)
transmission drain plug crush washer
transmission fill plug crush washer
STEPS
Make sure the car is level. If you remove the wheel make sure you return the car to a level position before starting this process.
The engine & trans should be completely cold (best if sat overnight). My car sat for nearly four hours in 55° weather. I opened the hood and removed the engine cowlings to facilitate the cool down.
The 24mm trans fill plug is located by removing a small plastic splash panel in the front of the driver's side wheel well, held in place by two 10mm bolts. It's also attached forward of that but it can be moved down to access the fill hole without removing it entirely. The fill plug is stamped WS. Turn the wheel all the way to the left for better access or you can take the wheel off entirely to make it really easy.
Remove the wheel well spash piece exposing the fill plug. Break the plug loose.
Remove the left front underside plastic shield (under the bumper) to gain access to the in and out transmission cooler lines between the transmission and the radiator. The plastic pop connectors holding the shield are removed by prying the center button up from the ring.
Remove the 6mm allen drain/overflow tube plug from bottom of the trans pan. About 1 quart of ATF will drain out.
Replace the drain/overflow tube plug. Snug it but do not torque.
Remove the fill plug and insert the hose/funnel. Add 1 quart of WS ATF leaving the hose in fill hole. You should balance it on the spring or as I did, tape it to a stand to keep it in place.
Go back to the transmission cooler lines. Disconnect the outboard hose by pinching the clamp with pliers and sliding it up the hose. Very little fluid will drain out. The transmission fluid will flush from the radiator side of the connection and not the hose side. I attached a 4" piece of scrap 3/8" hose to direct the fluid into my drain pan.
While watching the cooler line, have a helper start car. Trans fluid will pour out, 2 quarts in about 15 seconds. When air pumps out (the line starts to spit and sputter) shut off the car immmediately.
Add 2 quarts of WS ATF to the fill hole with the funnel and hose.
If you are keeping track of what you removed (recommended), pour the contents of your drain pan into the graduated container, record it, then dump the contents into your waste container.
Repeat pumping out 2 quarts at a time starting car and shutting off quickly until you have pumped 10 quarts through.
You should have a total of 11 quarts out and 11 quarts in (1 drained + 10 flushed).
By 11 quarts the fluid should be coming out fairly clean. The final flush isn't nearly as clear as new transmission fluid, so if you're looking for really clean fluid you'll need more than 12 quarts to continue flushing.
Reconnect the cooler line with the factory clamp.
Add around 1/2 quart WS ATF in the fill hole. Install the fill plug and new crush washer. Snug it but do not torque yet
Start the car and check for leaks.
Cycle trans shift lever through PRNDL 3 times, stopping at each position for a few seconds.
At this point you need to get the transmission fluid up to temperature, between 104 and 113°F (40 - 45°C). After I finished the flushing it took three minutes or so of idling for the temperature of the transmission fluid to reach the required 104° (55° outside temp). I measured the fluid directly, not the pan.
With the car running remove the drain/overflow tube plug and allow fluid to drain until it becomes a trickle. Quickly install the plug with the new crush washer. The amount of fluid that comes out will likely match the extra amount you added in the last filling step. If no fluid comes out you'll need to add more via the fill hole until it does.
Shut off the engine.
Add 200 ml of fluid to the fill hole.
Torque the fill plug to 35 foot lbs.
Torque the pan drain/overflow tube plug to 30 foot lbs.
Start car and test drive until everything is hot and check for leaks.
Replace the plastic underbody and splash panel.
You are done.
Here are some further instructions from Toyota.
The TC I found states to add 200ml back in (about 6.7 oz), here is the last page of the Tc:
TRANSAXLE FLUID LEVEL – TC011-07, August 11, 2007, Page 5 of 5.
5. Check the ATF fluid level.
NOTE:
The fluid temperature MUST be between 104 and 113°F (40 and 45°C) to accurately
check the fluid level.
A. Remove the overflow plug with
the engine idling (A/C OFF).
HINT:
Removing the overflow plug before
reaching fluid check temperature
makes it easier to confirm when fluid
starts coming out at a steady rate.
B. Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube.
If fluid does NOT come out, proceed to step 6, “Refill the transaxle’’.
If fluid comes out, wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to
step 7, “Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure’’.
6. Refill the transaxle.
A. Remove the overflow plug and gasket.
B. Connect the transmission fill system pump and hose to the quick disconnect
adapter already connected to the refill hole.
C. Add ATF into the refill hole until ATF flows from the overflow tube.
D. Wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to the
“Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure’’ procedure in step 7.
7. Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure.
A. Install the overflow plug with a NEW gasket.
B. Add an additional 200 ml of ATF WS through the refill hole.
C. Stop the engine.
D. Install the refill plug with a NEW gasket.
If we follow the procedure and drain the excess oil at 104F, then back fill about 200ml at the end ( about 1/5qt) would it be right to assume that when i remove the drain bolt there should not be more than 200ml of oil coming out?
i kind of confuse when i open my drain bolt to do the transmission oil flush and fill, almost 1 qt of oil came out, and another 1 qt drain out when i remove the red tube. (This was done when the car/oil is park overnight so oil temp is much less than 104F)
If we follow the procedure and drain the excess oil at 104F, then back fill about 200ml at the end ( about 1/5qt) would it be right to assume that when i remove the drain bolt there should not be more than 200ml of oil coming out?
i kind of confuse when i open my drain bolt to do the transmission oil flush and fill, almost 1 qt of oil came out, and another 1 qt drain out when i remove the red tube. (This was done when the car/oil is park overnight so oil temp is much less than 104F)
It's because ATF has settled into the pan. With the car running, ATF is primed throughout the trany.
08-03-13, 07:46 AM
