Robert_J

That's why amps have gain *****. You can always turn it down. If you go too small, you can only turn it up to the max. If that isn't enough then you wasted your money.

You can't arbitrarily say a 12" sub is better than a 10" sub. This is an Infinity Reference 12"


This is a Sundown Z v4 10"


While the Infinity is a great sub, it's xmax is only 13mm (one way linear excursion). The Sundown 10" has an xmax of 30mm. Even though the cone is smaller, it can actually move more air than the Infinity. Base is about moving air.

You have one constraint. What's your 2nd? The 3rd will be determined for you. http://sites.psu.edu/speakerdesign/2...aker-building/

bljdb86

I know this is an old post but I wanted to pass on how helpful these pictures were for me to find the wire passthrough in the firewall. I was able to run a 4 gauge wire thru the same passthrough shown in pics. I sealed with clear silicon just to feel safer. Running the wire back to the trunk was relatively easy from that point. In my case I will simply be totally bypassing the stock sub and am trying to figure best way to do this. Since there are not corresponding wires on amp that match what is on sub, I'm a bit confused. I also noticed that when I had the four door speakers unplugged, that the stock sub and middle dash speaker would play together, suggesting that they are obviously connected somehow. I'll also probably be disconnecting the front left and right dash speakers as they are connected to my new door speakers with new amp. I'm guessing the stock dash speakers won't be able to keep up with new amp connected.
So I've installed two Rockford amps, all new door speakers with "custom" baffles including ADS 335.is components in the front doors and Boston Accoustic 6.5 midbass in rear doors, an audiocontrol dq61, two 10" Boston Accoustics subs for which I built separate boxes and finally a vais ivic 5i. All of this equipment except the vais is at least ten years old and pulled off my garage shelves. The last car I had I elected not to install anything in it so this great equipment was just laying around. All of it seems to work just fine so I'm happy about that. Professional car audio stores typically wanted $1000 and up just to install my old equipment so I tackled it myself. It took some time but it's done right with all wires soldered and using heat shrink tubing. It all looks stock until you look in the trunk of course.

asiandavid

Is there an amp on a non ml with navi es350? I want to do that butbi dont want to use the fuse as a remote seems a little too dangerous

SICK350

iTrader: (1)

Can you not use a cigarette lighters power source or another source that is only on when the car is on?

asiandavid

Im sorry I read the post wrong he tapped into a blue wire comming from the fuse box I thought he straight out took the cigarette lighter fuse and wrapped it in wire and stuck it back in there as the remote

asiandavid

Is this the blue wire that the professional install tapped? I need a comfirmation asap because I dont want to mess anything up

driven905

You can always verify that the blue wire is in fact the remote wire using a multimeter.

dguy

Reviving an old thread here -- I am trying to install a sub in my 07' ES350 Non-ML. I am hoping to tap the stock subwoofer. I noticed that the red and black wires were tapped -- can someone say which is the positive and negative for these wires? Thanks guys!

nevernu

maybe its in here

dguy

My stock subwoofer has two sets of wires -- (1) red and black and (2) blue and white. The wiring diagram shows (1) red and white and (2) green and black. I'm a little confused on the -/+. If I read it correctly, I can use red as positive and black and negative? Does this make sense?