P0137
 

So the check engine came on today. Stopped by autozone and got the code p1037. Looked it up and kinda figured out what the issue is. Has anyone face with this issue before on a 2005 es330 with 57k miles on it. I googled where the sensor is located but getting multiple locations. (See pictures)Any tips would greatly appreciate it.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...c10083cfdd.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...da8484479e.png

Hello,

P0137 likely indicates an issue with B1S2 O2 sensor, which is there to control the efficiency of a Catalyst for Bank 1, which is the one towards the firewall on this engine, with that, 57,000 miles seems like a pretty low mileage for you to start having issues with it. Try resetting the code for now by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, if it will come back, Advance Auto has a scan tool that can read Engine Live Data, that way you can check the signal produced by the sensor, which should be oscillating from about 0.5 to 0.7V, stepping on the gas should drop the voltage for a split second, but then it should return to normal. If it sits at one specific voltage for too long or that voltage never goes above like 0.1-0.2 volts, then you likely have a bad sensor.

As for its location, here is a Parts Diagram for your car, sensor is marked 89465. Part Number for it is 89465-33370. You can find a good aftermarket replacement at Rockauto website, Denso 234-4064 would be the best option.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

I was told it is the sensor but they dont know the location of it. I googled it but maybe im too retarded to understand the diagram. Would you happen to have a picture of where it actually located and not a diagram. Im having trouble reading it
thanks

Below is a video showing both sensors, even though the author says he replaces a Bank 2 Sensor 2, he is actually replacing a Bank 1 Sensor 2, the one you have issues with. Don't feel too discouraged about missing it though, even Toyota mixed them up a bit, where a No.2 sensor in the catalogue suddenly becomes No.1 at the dealership.. ;)

You have 4 sensors in that car - 2 Main (Upstream) ones, going Before the cats, and 2 Supplemental (Downstream) ones, each placed right past its respective catalyst. Main ones are designed to monitor and adjust your Fuel Mixture, so they are very important for proper operation, while Supplemental ones are there only to monitor efficiency of the catalysts and trigger a Check Engine Light if it drops below certain threshold. Bank 1 is a set of cylinders that has a #1 cylinder, which in this car is on the Back towards the firewall, Sensor 2 means that it is a Second sensor in that Bank, which usually indicates that it is a Supplemental, or Downstream sensor.


Hope this helps and best of luck!

Holy cow. Ive watch that dude many times. Didn’t realize that clip was what i was looking for. Thanks a bunch. Will the fix my p1037 of circuit low voltage issue though or is it some other problems like others suggested. Thanks again in advance

so he changed out two of them in the video, which one is the sensor two? Im hearing the front and the rear sensor, but by watching the video, i saw a top and a bottom one.

also, are they all the same sensors and just different lengths? Or are they all different?

The one in the first part of the video is the sensor you need.

The should be the same in terms of basic construction, but they do have different length wires and different connectors, which can still be swapped out as it is described here, I had to do this once and that car is still running strong, as far as I know..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

thanks. I ordered the sensor and will be here tuesday. Hope i ordered the correct one
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...1c09a87279.png

Amazon is really not the best place to order parts from, they don't put a whole lot of effort in verifying their sources, so there are more counterfeits there than real deal, so there may be a good chance to get a part that doesn't work from the get go. Rockauto is one of the best places for aftermarket stuff, they usually have pretty good prices, while also verifying what parts they sell.

Coming to think of it, one way to verify that we did find a correct sensor is disconnect it and go for a ride to see if you will get any new codes for a different bank, if you were to disconnect a sensor that is already giving you issues, you won't get any new codes.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

ill just wait to install the new sensor and see. As of right now the check engine goes on and off and it is off at the moment. I take your advice and return amazons sensor and go to rock auto. Thanks

Arsenii, he's acutally changing Bank 2, not Bank one like you said. Bank 1 is on cylinder #1 side on the firewall side.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...789126acf.jpeg
ES 300/330 firing order and layout

The thread started with a Code P0137 - Circuit Low Voltage B1 S2, so I would assume that even though the OP can change any sensor he feels as necessary, he really should be replacing a Bank 1 Sensor. With that, if you are referring to the Video linked earlier, then he is in fact changing the Bank 1 Sensor, even if the Description leads you to believe otherwise.

The plumbing in those cars can be a little confusing, Bank 2 manifold goes straight down into the Exhaust, while Bank 1, for the reasons I am not quite sure I understand, loops around to the Bank 2 Manifold, where they connect into a single pipe going to the Exhaust. Looking closer, you will see a Flange from Bank 1 in the background connecting to the Pipe with a Sensor in question, and you will also see another O2 sensor to the Right and Above the one the guy in the Video was replacing, which would in fact a Bank 2 Sensor.

Hope this helps and best of luck!