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02 ES300. Need new Catalytic Converter-P0420. Aftermarket options?
I have decided I am going to replace the cats, rather than dump the car.
Will not go OEM, too expensive. Over $1000 per cat. Can't justify it on a 17 year old car with nearly 200k on it. I am trying to get it to 300k before I replace it, we have a new baby on the way and don't want to make any changes to the car fleet until the finances stabilize a bit after the baby comes. So, I did lots of maintenance, timing belt, water pump etc. All new suspension, brakes, engine mounts. Its basically a new car. But this pesky CEL will not stay away. I have replaced all of the sensors, (A/F and O2), and the MAF, so its time to bite the bullet. I am looking at PaceSetter and Walker OE replacements. $150 to $200 each. I am also going to replace all gaskets, and flange bolts because they will break most likely. How are these aftermarket options? I only have the code for the rear bank, but I am going to replace both...because murphy's law. |
MyLparts.com has the OEM cats for $565 and $467. Still too much money though, If I am going to do that, I will just go buy a different car.
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If you are in California it's my understanding that you must buy California catalytic converters or it will not work for smog purposes. However, I sent you a PM on a little trick I recently discovered.
edited for clarification |
Where I live in TX there are no emissions tests. My car is not equipped with CA emissions Equipment anyway.
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As an experiment, when I experienced this I solved it legally for $10~12. I put spark plug non-foulers on the downstream sensors on each bank. I took it to be gas analzed and it was WELL within the smog limits - in fact, about baseline from the specs I could find. Because the light is coming on does not really mean you need new cats - these things are programmed to be insanely sensitive. |
I have been using a California carb compliant walker from rock auto for the last 12 months/24,000 miles with no issues. My only complaint, other than a tiny bit of misalignment, is that the bracket that wraps around the flex pipe neck and hold it tight to the bottom of the engine does not fit the aftermarket peace, and under heavy acceleration, there is a harmonic thing that probably 95% of drivers wouldn’t notice I will also point out, it is a 19-year-old car… Unless you’re state snips exhaust, you can take off the old one, gut it and reinstall with new gaskets. Call of the sensors in the car are above this catalytic converter. Please dial, if you choose to do this, know that it is extremely hazardous material in there, and use a respirator |
Are you trying to pass smog or just make your CEL go away?
if you just want your cel gone you can buy this spacer and it will get rid of your p0420 code. https://www.amazon.com/Oxygen-Sensor-Extender-Degree-Extension/dp/B01N1272YM/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N1272YM&pd_rd_r=ee92103d-f7f8-11e8-9397-9daa0eb60073&pd_rd_w=pUZVH&pd_rd_wg=iwBXb&pf_rd_i=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=b98fa1a4-6e6e-4981-835c-7fb29e0f4dd2&pf_rd_r=V45ARVP99M4ZQ541QFTN&pf_rd_s=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=V45ARVP99M4ZQ541QFTN |
That link haha here's a drastically shortened version without the tracking info
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Originally Posted by Oro
(Post 10375150)
As an experiment, when I experienced this I solved it legally for $10~12. I put spark plug non-foulers on the downstream sensors on each bank. I took it to be gas analzed and it was WELL within the smog limits - in fact, about baseline from the specs I could find. Because the light is coming on does not really mean you need new cats - these things are programmed to be insanely sensitive.
Originally Posted by acarapella
(Post 10375155)
I have been using a California carb compliant walker from rock auto for the last 12 months/24,000 miles with no issues. My only complaint, other than a tiny bit of misalignment, is that the bracket that wraps around the flex pipe neck and hold it tight to the bottom of the engine does not fit the aftermarket peace, and under heavy acceleration, there is a harmonic thing that probably 95% of drivers wouldn’t notice I will also point out, it is a 19-year-old car… Unless you’re state snips exhaust, you can take off the old one, gut it and reinstall with new gaskets. Call of the sensors in the car are above this catalytic converter. Please dial, if you choose to do this, know that it is extremely hazardous material in there, and use a respirator
Originally Posted by Lexus2000
(Post 10375182)
That link haha here's a drastically shortened version without the tracking info
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1272YM/ |
Do you have a theory as to why you cars are dead at under 200k miles? Lots of us have at or more than 300k and no problems. Usually it's oil burning or really poor fuel quality. But these sound unlikely.
I am in fact wrestling with this same problem, but on my SUV. The only aftermarket piece for one of the two cats/pipes is Bosal. And it doesn't really fit, another owner told me he had to cut it and rotate it and re-weld - it was angled wrong from the start. The lack of aftermarket for direct-fit cats is just a real headache. |
Originally Posted by Lexus2000
(Post 10375182)
That link haha here's a drastically shortened version without the tracking info
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1272YM/ |
Originally Posted by Oro
(Post 10377180)
Do you have a theory as to why you cars are dead at under 200k miles? Lots of us have at or more than 300k and no problems. Usually it's oil burning or really poor fuel quality. But these sound unlikely.
I am in fact wrestling with this same problem, but on my SUV. The only aftermarket piece for one of the two cats/pipes is Bosal. And it doesn't really fit, another owner told me he had to cut it and rotate it and re-weld - it was angled wrong from the start. The lack of aftermarket for direct-fit cats is just a real headache. |
Doesn’t the manual say you can put regular unleaded in these cars? |
I The OEM Cats should last the lifetime of the car, HOWEVER, you can cause their premature demise in several ways; Driving with the check engine light on, especially if caused by misfire, or AF sensor issues. engine running reach or lean. I Internal coolant leaks. Head gasket etc. Engine burning oil. Misuse, abuse, overuse, of gas additives, or similar products. there are several other causes, but these are the main ones. Phil Unless you identify and remedy the original cause, a new Cat will fail as well. |
Originally Posted by funcrusher
(Post 10377417)
Doesn’t the manual say you can put regular unleaded in these cars?
Originally Posted by PFB
(Post 10377752)
I The OEM Cats should last the lifetime of the car, HOWEVER, you can cause their premature demise in several ways; Driving with the check engine light on, especially if caused by misfire, or AF sensor issues. engine running reach or lean. I Internal coolant leaks. Head gasket etc. Engine burning oil. Misuse, abuse, overuse, of gas additives, or similar products. there are several other causes, but these are the main ones. Phil Unless you identify and remedy the original cause, a new Cat will fail as well. This is a list of what I have done (in my garage) to the car. -Struts (all 4) -Rack and pinion -all vacuum lines replaces -spark plugs -ignition coils (had a misfire) -timing belt -waterpump -TB Idler -TB Tensioner -PCV Valve -Removed andrebuilt all fuel injectors -Intake manifold gaskets -Throttle body gasket (with the screen) -MAF -IAT -knock sensors -O2's -Air/fuel sensors -charcoal canister -front suspension totally rebuilt -rear suspension totally rebuilt. I will add the other stuff as I think of it. The car literally runs like a dream. Smooth, quiet, no reason to suspect anything... Except for the stupid orange light and recurring code. Next? |
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