Original timing belt and water pump in an 06 330 with 139k miles. How long do these parts generally last?

The stated replacement interval is 100k mi. Anyone who has ever done any statistical math on part failure will understand why this is a very conservative interval to avoid anyone suffering the failure (involving variance in the tested life of a significant number of belts). That is why there are tons of examples of them lasting longer. They should. But the risk of failure grows.

If your belt has not been replaced, I’m guessing the plugs have not, either. Also, in my experience, valve cover gaskets on these start getting weak around this mileage and need replacement. Lastly, the TB breaking is not the only risk in letting it run longer. The tensioner that keeps the belt from skipping wears out, too. It failing is the exact same effect as a belt breaking. In an Acura I have, the tensioner failed at 155k mi, the exact same Aisin tensioner that these cars use.

So, if I were in your shoes, I would plan on doing a major service and do the valve cover gaskets, plugs, and timing belt/wp/tensioner. I’ve given a lot of thought to this and given what I’ve learned and experienced, I’m going to do all three things at the same time in the 125k mi ~ish interval. The vc gaskets and plugs share a lot of the same labor (taking off the intake), so they fit together. No real overlap with the belt/tensioner/wp, but a mental reminder to address them around the same general time.

I did the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets last week (was leaking oil from gaskets). I think I’ll go ahead and put a new radiator in when I do the timing belt and water pump though just for that peace of mind. I’m thinking maybe in December or January!

OK, good - you are ahead of the game then, or at least on top of it.

RE: radiator - two thoughts:

a) These can last a long time, so unless you have reason to suspect it, I would not bother. I had to replace ours ~280k and only because the PO had stupidly replaced the red coolant w/green. IME, this always creates problems later somewhere, usually in the plastic composites in the system and not the rad core itself. I still got well over 100k miles more out of it after I bought it and fixed the coolant mis-match.

b) If you do go to get a new radiator, you will find there are two models spec’d for this car. A 5/8” cored one and a 1” cored one. Both fit identically, so get the 1” cored one (26mm or something like that in the listing) for the extra capacity. When I needed one, I got an Amazon warehouse deal on a 1” cored OE Denso for $55 delivered. Great deal.

Thanks for explaining the radiator difference. I was like wtf when I saw 2 on Lexuspartsnow for $100 and $400. Do you think the bigger one would last longer and keep the car much cooler? We’ll see if I even replace it! My mechanic was the one who recommended doing it when he does the water pump and timing belt since it’s right there by them. Oro, have a look at everything I’ve done so far....

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...o-my-list.html

There’s zero benefit to a tb job in pullng the radiator at the same time, or vice-versa on this car (can be on others). Makes no sense to me unless you have clear signs the radiator is failng or you clearly have the wrong fluid mixed with the Toyota fluid.

the larger one won’t necessarily last longer, but it has some extra cooling capability if you ever need it. For no difference in price, I’d use the 1” one (both are the same price most places).