i want it to last now!
11-05-18, 05:37 AM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
i want it to last now!
now that I have a rebuilt tranny on my 99 with 200, I want it to last at least a few more years so it pay off all that I have spent on it 
so far we have done dino with fram filter. I was thinking of continuing with Castrol gtx 5-30 as they claim 50% more sludge protection. but was thinking of switching to a Toyota filter as I have heard horror reports about fram. what is the Toyota oil filter model number? is dealership the only sae place to get it?
I am sure this topic has been dealt with many times before. please give me a reply or lead me to the thread.
thanks.
so far we have done dino with fram filter. I was thinking of continuing with Castrol gtx 5-30 as they claim 50% more sludge protection. but was thinking of switching to a Toyota filter as I have heard horror reports about fram. what is the Toyota oil filter model number? is dealership the only sae place to get it?
I am sure this topic has been dealt with many times before. please give me a reply or lead me to the thread.
thanks.
11-05-18, 10:10 AM
#3
now that I have a rebuilt tranny on my 99 with 200, I want it to last at least a few more years so it pay off all that I have spent on it
so far we have done dino with fram filter. I was thinking of continuing with Castrol gtx 5-30 as they claim 50% more sludge protection. but was thinking of switching to a Toyota filter as I have heard horror reports about fram. what is the Toyota oil filter model number? is dealership the only sae place to get it?
I am sure this topic has been dealt with many times before. please give me a reply or lead me to the thread.
thanks.
so far we have done dino with fram filter. I was thinking of continuing with Castrol gtx 5-30 as they claim 50% more sludge protection. but was thinking of switching to a Toyota filter as I have heard horror reports about fram. what is the Toyota oil filter model number? is dealership the only sae place to get it?
I am sure this topic has been dealt with many times before. please give me a reply or lead me to the thread.
thanks.
11-05-18, 11:04 AM
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
I paid 1900 and that included a separate tranny cooler.
11-06-18, 12:08 PM
#5
The "50% more sludge protection" claim means vs. the bare minimum the standard (SN I would presume) calls for. It does not mean vs. other oils. Castrol is not bad oil, but that particular oil is a very long way from the best oil you could use for wear, sludge, and viscosity break-down protection.
If you are serious about a good oil with high standards, then don't look at SN oils, look for ACEA A3/B3 or B5 approved oils. Very few meet this much tougher standard (European one). That is why I use Mobil 1 10w30 HM. One of the VERY few 30wt oils that can meet the spec (it has a very high wear-protection standard, a minimum HTHS of 3.5). Amsoil, Redline are others and this M1 product is one of the few regular retail oils you can get for that. In Texas, you are wasting effort on a 5w30 - getting a 10w30 in any brand is a more effective move - less rubbery additives and more actual oil head-to-head.
Toyota filters are robust, but poor at actual filtration vs. the current state of the art. A more efficient, and even more robust, filter would be the Fram Ultra. You can run them 15, 20k miles without issue (I actually have). A $10 filter for two or three oil changes is actually a bargain, too. Fram did have some quality control issues with their lowest line (the regular 'ole orange can) a few years ago. That has been corrected, but I would still pay more for the premium Ultra - it's all the rave now with the oil-heads who pay close attention to this stuff (good to learn from them).
Something you can do to protect your tranny, besides periodic fluid changes, is to install an inline Magnefine filter. 3/8" spliced into one of the cooler lines will help if you really want it to last. Lubegard Red additive is also quite good, it does what it advertises and the chemistry is real, not snake-oil. If you have a tranny with new parts in it, an added magnetic filter like that can capture break-in wear and help it last longer.
If you are serious about a good oil with high standards, then don't look at SN oils, look for ACEA A3/B3 or B5 approved oils. Very few meet this much tougher standard (European one). That is why I use Mobil 1 10w30 HM. One of the VERY few 30wt oils that can meet the spec (it has a very high wear-protection standard, a minimum HTHS of 3.5). Amsoil, Redline are others and this M1 product is one of the few regular retail oils you can get for that. In Texas, you are wasting effort on a 5w30 - getting a 10w30 in any brand is a more effective move - less rubbery additives and more actual oil head-to-head.
Toyota filters are robust, but poor at actual filtration vs. the current state of the art. A more efficient, and even more robust, filter would be the Fram Ultra. You can run them 15, 20k miles without issue (I actually have). A $10 filter for two or three oil changes is actually a bargain, too. Fram did have some quality control issues with their lowest line (the regular 'ole orange can) a few years ago. That has been corrected, but I would still pay more for the premium Ultra - it's all the rave now with the oil-heads who pay close attention to this stuff (good to learn from them).
Something you can do to protect your tranny, besides periodic fluid changes, is to install an inline Magnefine filter. 3/8" spliced into one of the cooler lines will help if you really want it to last. Lubegard Red additive is also quite good, it does what it advertises and the chemistry is real, not snake-oil. If you have a tranny with new parts in it, an added magnetic filter like that can capture break-in wear and help it last longer.
The following 2 users liked this post by Oro:
harrisbaig (11-08-18),
wmj259 (11-06-18)
11-06-18, 12:20 PM
#6
PS -
On the subject again of filters, I recalled an article I saw referenced recently that was pretty succinct about different filter media.
https://asp.epubxp.com/i/148057-jul-aug-2013/51?
Go to page 50 and there's a quick read about cellulose vs. glass media. The article is about five years old and the newer filters (like the ultra) use a combined glass/cellulose media to give the best of both worlds (filtration efficiency as well as holding capacity), which the article hints is around the corner. It's here now.
Note the pics on p. 52 of an OE and "fake" filter each cut open. Be vary careful of buying Toyota filters online unless the vendor is really reputable (basically, a dealer).
On the subject again of filters, I recalled an article I saw referenced recently that was pretty succinct about different filter media.
https://asp.epubxp.com/i/148057-jul-aug-2013/51?
Go to page 50 and there's a quick read about cellulose vs. glass media. The article is about five years old and the newer filters (like the ultra) use a combined glass/cellulose media to give the best of both worlds (filtration efficiency as well as holding capacity), which the article hints is around the corner. It's here now.
Note the pics on p. 52 of an OE and "fake" filter each cut open. Be vary careful of buying Toyota filters online unless the vendor is really reputable (basically, a dealer).
11-06-18, 12:41 PM
#7
Intermediate
Something you can do to protect your tranny, besides periodic fluid changes, is to install an inline Magnefine filter. 3/8" spliced into one of the cooler lines will help if you really want it to last. Lubegard Red additive is also quite good, it does what it advertises and the chemistry is real, not snake-oil. If you have a tranny with new parts in it, an added magnetic filter like that can capture break-in wear and help it last longer.
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11-08-18, 02:20 PM
#8
Driver
Thread Starter
The "50% more sludge protection" claim means vs. the bare minimum the standard (SN I would presume) calls for. It does not mean vs. other oils. Castrol is not bad oil, but that particular oil is a very long way from the best oil you could use for wear, sludge, and viscosity break-down protection.
If you are serious about a good oil with high standards, then don't look at SN oils, look for ACEA A3/B3 or B5 approved oils. Very few meet this much tougher standard (European one). That is why I use Mobil 1 10w30 HM. One of the VERY few 30wt oils that can meet the spec (it has a very high wear-protection standard, a minimum HTHS of 3.5). Amsoil, Redline are others and this M1 product is one of the few regular retail oils you can get for that. In Texas, you are wasting effort on a 5w30 - getting a 10w30 in any brand is a more effective move - less rubbery additives and more actual oil head-to-head.
Toyota filters are robust, but poor at actual filtration vs. the current state of the art. A more efficient, and even more robust, filter would be the Fram Ultra. You can run them 15, 20k miles without issue (I actually have). A $10 filter for two or three oil changes is actually a bargain, too. Fram did have some quality control issues with their lowest line (the regular 'ole orange can) a few years ago. That has been corrected, but I would still pay more for the premium Ultra - it's all the rave now with the oil-heads who pay close attention to this stuff (good to learn from them).
Something you can do to protect your tranny, besides periodic fluid changes, is to install an inline Magnefine filter. 3/8" spliced into one of the cooler lines will help if you really want it to last. Lubegard Red additive is also quite good, it does what it advertises and the chemistry is real, not snake-oil. If you have a tranny with new parts in it, an added magnetic filter like that can capture break-in wear and help it last longer.
If you are serious about a good oil with high standards, then don't look at SN oils, look for ACEA A3/B3 or B5 approved oils. Very few meet this much tougher standard (European one). That is why I use Mobil 1 10w30 HM. One of the VERY few 30wt oils that can meet the spec (it has a very high wear-protection standard, a minimum HTHS of 3.5). Amsoil, Redline are others and this M1 product is one of the few regular retail oils you can get for that. In Texas, you are wasting effort on a 5w30 - getting a 10w30 in any brand is a more effective move - less rubbery additives and more actual oil head-to-head.
Toyota filters are robust, but poor at actual filtration vs. the current state of the art. A more efficient, and even more robust, filter would be the Fram Ultra. You can run them 15, 20k miles without issue (I actually have). A $10 filter for two or three oil changes is actually a bargain, too. Fram did have some quality control issues with their lowest line (the regular 'ole orange can) a few years ago. That has been corrected, but I would still pay more for the premium Ultra - it's all the rave now with the oil-heads who pay close attention to this stuff (good to learn from them).
Something you can do to protect your tranny, besides periodic fluid changes, is to install an inline Magnefine filter. 3/8" spliced into one of the cooler lines will help if you really want it to last. Lubegard Red additive is also quite good, it does what it advertises and the chemistry is real, not snake-oil. If you have a tranny with new parts in it, an added magnetic filter like that can capture break-in wear and help it last longer.
11-08-18, 02:28 PM
#9
11-08-18, 04:09 PM
#11
11-08-18, 07:35 PM
#12
11-09-18, 06:45 AM
#13
Last edited by tomf; 11-09-18 at 06:51 AM.
11-09-18, 11:40 AM
#14
I don’t know what happened in your case, and there are lots of variables to leaks or not. But in general, the mere fact of switching the base oil type is not going to cause a spontaneous leak. If you have really bad seals and a dirty engine, then I recommend fixing them instead of praying the dirt holds together and keeps it from leaking.
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