Check engine light reset...now master key doesn’t work
05-28-18, 01:11 PM
#1
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Check engine light reset...now master key doesn’t work
Check engine came on, checked gas cap and it was not tight so fixed that and proceeded to unhook the negative battery terminal. Left it unhooked for 24 hours. After hooking the battery back up, Now the previously working master key does not force the security light to stop blinking. I have played with the efi fuse trick and have also pulled/reinserted the ecu fuse. ..no changes. In all my searches either unhooking the battery or pulling efi fuse, start attempt and reinserting has worked to reset the check engine light without any issues. Sad part is this has occurred before and I was able to get the key working, but didn’t record how.
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06-01-18, 03:03 PM
#8
Pit Crew
I'm sorry to hear about your situation - please let us know how you got your car started (assuming you do...).
Meanwhile, can anyone share a safer method of resetting the check engine light (other than unplugging the battery for a day)? I really want to know since the Check Engine light in my new-to-me '98 ES 300 just lit up while driving down the freeway - no new noises or vibrations - possibly a faster idle - but all the fluids are topped-off and most (oil & ATF) are very clean. Does this Check Engine indicator light come on as a maintenance reminder every 5-7K, or is there something definitely wrong that I need to look for?
Meanwhile, can anyone share a safer method of resetting the check engine light (other than unplugging the battery for a day)? I really want to know since the Check Engine light in my new-to-me '98 ES 300 just lit up while driving down the freeway - no new noises or vibrations - possibly a faster idle - but all the fluids are topped-off and most (oil & ATF) are very clean. Does this Check Engine indicator light come on as a maintenance reminder every 5-7K, or is there something definitely wrong that I need to look for?
06-01-18, 06:37 PM
#9
Get a cheap (<$10) code reader from Amazon or Ebay. Read the code and clear it that way vs. hack of pulling the battery cable or fuses.
If you search under "elm327" you will find the units I am talking about. Pair them with freeware (Torquelite or OBD2 on apple). Be aware if you have an iOS phone, you need to get a wifi and not bluetooth version. The BT versions are blacklisted for security reasons in iOS. If you have a light, it means a fault has been detected and you should check it out.
If you search under "elm327" you will find the units I am talking about. Pair them with freeware (Torquelite or OBD2 on apple). Be aware if you have an iOS phone, you need to get a wifi and not bluetooth version. The BT versions are blacklisted for security reasons in iOS. If you have a light, it means a fault has been detected and you should check it out.
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BMeek (06-01-18)
06-01-18, 09:59 PM
#10
Pit Crew
Get a cheap (<$10) code reader from Amazon or Ebay. Read the code and clear it that way vs. hack of pulling the battery cable or fuses.
If you search under "elm327" you will find the units I am talking about.[...]
...If you have a light, it means a fault has been detected and you should check it out.
If you search under "elm327" you will find the units I am talking about.[...]
...If you have a light, it means a fault has been detected and you should check it out.
FWIW, having referenced the Owner's Manual, I see that the "check engine" light we're referring to is actually called the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp". So, I gather that this old car doesn't have any maintenance indicator/reminder lamp tied to the odometer? Something that gets reset after a tune-up?
09-16-21, 06:41 PM
#11
o work". They did, and only chargedFOB not FAB (aka "Thunderbirds Are Go"
Hmm, def. no relationship bet. remote issue and ECU code. It's probably Autozone doesn't keep data on our cars-too old or too ugly?
ANyway, my main key works fine. The first time I went into Lexus with the 2nd, identical key, they said there was corrosion "and we don't know if we can get it to work...they didtwo batteries (ON SALE-=Land thankfully only $83.42 for .
t on the PC board of
ob I think perhaps the battery metal ring contacts are bent or missing.. can't t\ tell, but since key works fine, that wolld be my guess. This raised the issue of wehter I can send it anywhere that won't charge me the works for the second key, etc....seems like the only plalace that actually WORKS on these is in the biz of offering different remote replacements, supposedly cheaper than OE, and I wouldn't doubt it. Stilll its a dubious assumption to think that ANYONE works on repair of fob electronics except that shed in 'Wolf Of Wall St! panny stock "company" Teradyne or similar!
ANyway, my main key works fine. The first time I went into Lexus with the 2nd, identical key, they said there was corrosion "and we don't know if we can get it to work...they didtwo batteries (ON SALE-=Land thankfully only $83.42 for .
t on the PC board of
ob I think perhaps the battery metal ring contacts are bent or missing.. can't t\ tell, but since key works fine, that wolld be my guess. This raised the issue of wehter I can send it anywhere that won't charge me the works for the second key, etc....seems like the only plalace that actually WORKS on these is in the biz of offering different remote replacements, supposedly cheaper than OE, and I wouldn't doubt it. Stilll its a dubious assumption to think that ANYONE works on repair of fob electronics except that shed in 'Wolf Of Wall St! panny stock "company" Teradyne or similar!
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