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Ok, not a big milestone but I hit 500,000 km (310,686 miles) mark today!.
Few observations since 300k; I do 5k miles interval oil changes since I purchased this car new. During last two oil changes dash lit with low oil at around 4k miles. I had to top of with 1/2 qt both times. I may have to increase viscosity from 5w to 10w or reduce oil change cycle to 4k mark.
Second issue is p0420. At first Lexus told me its due to exhaust leak and that could easily be fixed with simple welding. Took the car to two different places (including Midas). Both said no leak. So I have Lexus checked that again. Now they confirmed one cat is shot (bank 1). Part number 17410-20310, near the firewall. Part alone costs $1k !!!. Searching on ebay and other places for used one. If any one has better ideas please share with me.
I'm curious what oil are you using? Brand and synthetic or non synthetic?
I ask because I use to do mine ever 4k but my car started to run sluggish once I got closer to 4k miles, no oil light though. So I switched to every 3k.
and yes the cats are very expensive. You should be able to find them online for about 400 or 500......
might switch out both CATs with aftermarket ones. can usually get those for a couple hundred for the pair.
depends on your state regulations thought. CARID shows magnaflow makes them for your car:
with the exhaust manifold they are ~$300 if you get a universal weld on ~$100 of course both are plus labor, so a local shop might cut you a deal if you buy and install there.
there are other brands that are cheaper, with and without the manifold.
I'm curious what oil are you using? Brand and synthetic or non synthetic?
I ask because I use to do mine ever 4k but my car started to run sluggish once I got closer to 4k miles, no oil light though. So I switched to every 3k.
and yes the cats are very expensive. You should be able to find them online for about 400 or 500......
Since 90k, I have been using Mobile 1 HM 5w-30 full syn.
might switch out both CATs with aftermarket ones. can usually get those for a couple hundred for the pair.
depends on your state regulations thought. CARID shows magnaflow makes them for your car:
with the exhaust manifold they are ~$300 if you get a universal weld on ~$100 of course both are plus labor, so a local shop might cut you a deal if you buy and install there.
there are other brands that are cheaper, with and without the manifold.
Thanks mjeds. I will check this. My car (purchased new in Portland, OR) compliances with California emission stds. It is more sticker than rest of the States. It has 3 cats. Not sure CA conformity brings additional issues with non-OEM part......
Thanks mjeds. I will check this. My car (purchased new in Portland, OR) compliances with California emission stds. It is more sticker than rest of the States. It has 3 cats. Not sure CA conformity brings additional issues with non-OEM part......
as long as it is marked as CARB compliant you are ok,
FWIW, since you are registered in New Jersey I do not believe you have to follow CARB compliance, even though your car was built under CA requirements. Check with your DMV, but pretty sure you are good with a non-carb compliant cat. I know when my cousin moved from CA to TN, he removed all the cats, installed long tube headers and hi-flow exhaust on his CA Mustang and TN didn't care. though he had to install dummy sensors in the O2 sensors to turn off the idiot lights.
I have the bottom one my 4runner, no issues, I have also run that same one on my previous 2005 Chrysler 300c SRT and 2012 Camaro SS, legally installed, my Chrysler was refereed by the California Highway Patrol for long tube headers (which move the location of the cats) when I put shorties back on I re-used the magnaflow cats and the CHP was fine with it because they were CARB approved (the long tube headers were not).
FWIW, since you are registered in New Jersey I do not believe you have to follow CARB compliance, even though your car was built under CA requirements. Check with your DMV, but pretty sure you are good with a non-carb compliant cat. I know when my cousin moved from CA to TN, he removed all the cats, installed long tube headers and hi-flow exhaust on his CA Mustang and TN didn't care. though he had to install dummy sensors in the O2 sensors to turn off the idiot lights.
I have the bottom one my 4runner, no issues, I have also run that same one on my previous 2005 Chrysler 300c SRT and 2012 Camaro SS, legally installed, my Chrysler was refereed by the California Highway Patrol for long tube headers (which move the location of the cats) when I put shorties back on I re-used the magnaflow cats and the CHP was fine with it because they were CARB approved (the long tube headers were not).
Thanks mjeds, very useful info. I wasn't clear with the question, I thought non California CARB compliance part would throw emission code. Based on your experience, looks like it doesn't. I will have local shop order this from carid and install it for me. That way I will have some warranty coverage.
Thanks mjeds, very useful info. I wasn't clear with the question, I thought non California CARB compliance part would throw emission code. Based on your experience, looks like it doesn't. I will have local shop order this from carid and install it for me. That way I will have some warranty coverage.
well it might or might not throw a code, but there are ways around that.. the redneck way is how I did it will my Chrysler and the long tube headers as the headers caused the code: you use an anti-fouler bung stuffed with steel wool to step the sensor away from the cat:
I wouldn’t think that 1/2 qt low would trigger the warning light?
Ours gets about that low between 7.5k oil changes (M1 10w-30 HM). It is not that much behind you in mileage, ~293k now I think. If I use a 5w-30, it will use about 2x as much oil consumption, because of both a thinner oil base stock, but also a whole lot more big, rubbery viscosity modifiers that are more prone to shear and burn vs. 10w base stock oil. Quite literally, there is more oil in a quart of 10w-30 than in a quart of 5w-30, sometimes a pretty decent %. Switching to 10w would be a good move IMO. NJ is no problem running that year-round. Also in favor of the M1 10w-30HM, it is as thick a 30 on the warm end as it can be w/o being a 40. The HTHS is 3.5, which is the upper limit. That also gives it an edge in consumption vs. most other 10w-30 brands, which are more typically bunched around 3.1 or 3.2 in HTHS along with most all 5w-30s.
On the cat, as mentioned, you need to meet state sniff test standards and not CARB. When I got this code, I used the spark plug spacers (no steel wool or anything in them). The light does not trigger and the car flies through our state emissions with no problems at all. Net cost to fix the problem was about 1 hour and $5.69 for the Dorman non-foulers at the local O’Reilly’s.
I wouldn’t think that 1/2 qt low would trigger the warning light?
Ours gets about that low between 7.5k oil changes (M1 10w-30 HM). It is not that much behind you in mileage, ~293k now I think. If I use a 5w-30, it will use about 2x as much oil consumption, because of both a thinner oil base stock, but also a whole lot more big, rubbery viscosity modifiers that are more prone to shear and burn vs. 10w base stock oil. Quite literally, there is more oil in a quart of 10w-30 than in a quart of 5w-30, sometimes a pretty decent %. Switching to 10w would be a good move IMO. NJ is no problem running that year-round. Also in favor of the M1 10w-30HM, it is as thick a 30 on the warm end as it can be w/o being a 40. The HTHS is 3.5, which is the upper limit. That also gives it an edge in consumption vs. most other 10w-30 brands, which are more typically bunched around 3.1 or 3.2 in HTHS along with most all 5w-30s.
On the cat, as mentioned, you need to meet state sniff test standards and not CARB. When I got this code, I used the spark plug spacers (no steel wool or anything in them). The light does not trigger and the car flies through our state emissions with no problems at all. Net cost to fix the problem was about 1 hour and $5.69 for the Dorman non-foulers at the local O’Reilly’s.
You are correct, low oil won't turn on for 1/2 qt. In my case, just passing 4k miles, low oil indicator would come and go few times. I hate to take chances, so ends up adding about 1/2 qt both times within 100 miles of indicator came and disappeared. When checked with dip stick after adding oil, oil level was just above low mark on the stick. I agree on 10w oil and will switch to that .
On cat, I will try spark plug spaces first and report back. Thanks for the suggestion.
05-22-18, 07:21 AM
Half a milion kms (500,000 km) ......!
