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Looking at the prices for 5 solenoids (because I don't wanna open the valve body again) is about $750-900. A replacement transmission with 100k some mileage costs $750-1K.
For errors p0753 and p0758
PREPARATION:
Disconnect the connector from ECM.
CHECK:
(a) Measure the resistance between terminals SL1+ and
SL1– of the ECM connector.
(b) Measure the resistance between terminals SL2+ and
SL2– of the ECM connector.
(c) Measure the resistance between terminal S4 of the ECM
connector and the body ground.
OK:
Resistance:
(a) SL1+ – SL1–: 5.3 ± 0.2 W
(b) SL2+ – SL2–: 5.3 ± 0.2 W
(c) S4 – Body ground: 13 ± 2 W
If ok replace ECM
When you said disconnect the connector from ECM, did you mean the connector that goes into the transmission? POST #10. I tested the pins that are on the Transmission Connection (the greyer port of the two ports in picture #2).
If so, I tested the pins on the
pin#5,10 for the SL1 with a resistance of 5.1 ohms
pin#4,9 for the SL2 with a resistance of 5.3 ohms
pin#8 to ground of the transmission for the S4 with a resistance of 11.8-12.2 ohms.
So that means I don't need to do the tests in POST#11.
I guess this confirms the ECM is bad, assuming I measured the right place. If this does confirm the transmission is good, then that's less of a pain, (kudos for the testing procedure @tomf ). I should do the tests in POST#12? That does mean that I will have to open up the transmission to test the solenoid SLT?
If this matters, when I tested the Engine with Techstream, it was showing in the live data stream that the 3rd gear is engaged.
ECM -> Transmission Solenoids Connector. Connector with orange gasket , was broken (not by me).
According to this thread regarding ECM replacement, I will need the mastery key from the salvaged vehicle with the salvage ECM,
thread: -> https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...ent-es300.html
Another post stated, that I could get the ECM repaired. Which would be the best route, you think?
Did the check engine and other dash lights flicker as the vehicle was stalling?
If so, check grounding cables. If loose the car will stall / stop and give you shift solenoid codes. I had this happen on my wife's RX300 after changing valve cover gaskets and it was a loose grounding cable that attaches to the left side of the air intake manifold.
Did the check engine and other dash lights flicker as the vehicle was stalling?
If so, check grounding cables. If loose the car will stall / stop and give you shift solenoid codes. I had this happen on my wife's RX300 after changing valve cover gaskets and it was a loose grounding cable that attaches to the left side of the air intake manifold.
Thank you for your reply.
The grounding cable (battery ->transmission top) was firmly attached to the transmission. I just had to unbolt the cable and it didn't seem loose. Unless there is another grounding cable on the transmission?
The cabling may be different by model. For my situation, the cable at issue connected to the air intake manifold. It gave me a bunch of transmission-related codes even though the loose connection wasn't anywhere near the tranny.
When you said disconnect the connector from ECM, did you mean the connector that goes into the transmission? POST #10.
My interpretation is that the connector you test is the connector that is connected to the ECM because not only would you be testing the solenoids but you would also be testing the wiring from the ECM to the transmission.
If you tested the resistance at the transmission the wiring is untested and could still be the cause.
If this tests passes, then, according to the repair manual, the problem is the ECM.
My interpretation is that the connector you test is the connector that is connected to the ECM because not only would you be testing the solenoids but you would also be testing the wiring from the ECM to the transmission.
If you tested the resistance at the transmission the wiring is untested and could still be the cause.
If this tests passes, then, according to the repair manual, the problem is the ECM.
Ah I see, will be opening the glove compartment shortly. Thanks for the clarification.
I was able to test S4, and that was good 11.2 ohms
The pinout above for the Left most connector (for SL2+ and SL2-) there is no pinto the left of the SL2+, there is one for my wiring though, but when i add it to the 2nd (SL2+) and 3rd point (SL2-) I dont receive a resistance. However, when I connected it to the 1st (left of SL2+) and 2nd pin (SL2+), i received a resistance of 5.2 ohms. For SL1, I received a reading of 5.1-5.2 ohms.
Im confused if the wires are backwards for SL2?
Here is a picture of the left most connector (red box) on my ecm (for the SL1 and SL2 ports). Seems like I have an extra pin.
and the wiring harness that goes into the port
The wire colors match, so if these results seem true, the ECM is bad?
Last edited by wmj259; 03-17-18 at 12:50 PM.
Reason: edited results
I don't think you have an extra pin. If you count the pins on your photo and on the pin out diagram there are the same number of pins. I think the diagram is distorted because the spacing of the pins is different between the top row and the middle row. I didn't understand your description of what pins you used to measure the resistance. But assuming the actions you took checked the proper solenoids then yes, according to the repair manual the ecm is bad.
Edit: Let me rephrase that last sentence. According to the repair manual the next thing you should do is replace the ECM. There is still the possibility that something else is causing the problem but due to the diagnostics you've run the most likely cause is the ECM
Last edited by tomf; 03-18-18 at 06:05 AM.
Reason: added clarification
OK, I've reread your description of how you took the resistance readings and I think I understand. Let me paraphrase what you did. Number the pins from left to right. In the top row you checked pins 1 and 2 for SL2. In the middle row you checked pins 2 and 3 for SL1. I would agree that's the correct procedure, the resistance levels look good, and your next step should be to replace/repair the ECM.
Last edited by tomf; 03-18-18 at 06:29 AM.
Reason: corrected spelling
OK, I've reread your description of how you took the resistance readings and I think I understand. Let me paraphrase what you did. Number the pins from left to right. In the top row you checked pins 1 and 2 for SL2. In the middle row you checked pins 2 and 3 for SL1. I would agree that's the correct procedure, the resistance levels look good, and your next step should be to replace/repair the ECM.
That's what I did, but couldn't word it correctly. I will be looking for an ECM, but I do have my eyes on a compete donor car (or 2) that are clean for parts.
your next step should be to replace/repair the ECM.
I found a few parts cars, all with u140e transmissions, V6.
1999 ES300 with 140k miles. front-end/totaled
2000 ES300 with 186k miles. no damage
2000 ES300 with 99k miles. front-end/totaled
2001 ES300 with 100k miles. rear-end/totaled
Seeing that the 2000 has already more miles then my car 143k,
Other than the transmission code being the same, and maybe the engine can be used aswell (if needed), I would hope the ecm is the same?
03-04-18, 01:51 PM
