Atf
02-13-18, 10:36 PM
#1
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Atf
Hey guys, I'm looking for some personal recommendation on the ATF. I have a 97, and from what I've read, these have a bulletproof engine/transmission and it is definitely proving itself to be. I got it a couple years back to be a daily driver at 175k, it's now 2k shy of 200k and still runs strong as an ox. Only thing I'd really complain about is the damn ticking sound from the injectors. I did a tuneup as soon as I got it, replaced the coolant as well, do regular oil changes, only thing I can't get myself to do is the ATF. I see that its a Dexron 3, and there are some people who have switched to the Type 4, some say it shifts harder, other say it feels the same, but how about 3-5 years later? Don't really wanna take chances, and really want this car to last. This thing is truly amazing, it's like driving a sofa, and even more comfortable than our sofa at home no lie. Called Toyota last weekend to try and order the ATF, and it cost like $12/quart. I think that's crazy. I will be doing drain and refill until its completely flushed, because I think its still got the original ATF in it, as it is totally black and not pink/red. It drives perfectly fine though, shifts smooth as butter. Only thing making it jerk are the engine and tranny mounts. Does anybody have a solid recommendation that they have personally tried for a really long time? I've seen some use Valvoline and Mobil1 too, but they aren't even available at our local auto store and again, not really sure if its truly formulated for the Toyota/Lexus tranny as it appears to be selling itself as more of a universal ATF. Truly looking for honest reviews, thanks in advance!
02-14-18, 08:38 AM
#2
Lexus Champion
02-14-18, 01:38 PM
#4
Lexus Champion
As usual you get what you pay for.
02-14-18, 05:17 PM
#5
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Well, that's not really my point on the price. I can spend $160 on car parts no problem, but $12/quart of ATF is unreasonable. Especially on an older car, older transmission, that doesn't even have resale value.
02-14-18, 06:40 PM
#6
Lexus Champion
The transmission will shift better (much better on my ES) that alone is worth the money to me. And the usable service interval is longer especially on the U140E. The way I look at it I'm doing the work myself so the money I save can go back into better products.
Whatever you do don't use Toyota T-IV fluid the transmission won't like it.
Whatever you do don't use Toyota T-IV fluid the transmission won't like it.
02-14-18, 07:38 PM
#7
Lol What?
I've been using the Mobil 1 55221 3309 which I'm pretty sure is exactly the same as the Toyota T IV fluid for almost 70k miles now since my rebuild with no problems what so ever.
I've been using the Mobil 1 55221 3309 which I'm pretty sure is exactly the same as the Toyota T IV fluid for almost 70k miles now since my rebuild with no problems what so ever.
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02-14-18, 08:40 PM
#8
Lexus Champion
'97 ES calls for Dexron III or compatible.
02-15-18, 12:19 PM
#10
In both DexIII and TIV applications, I have had really good success with Castrol Transmax High Mileage. It is relatively cheap and widely available (gallons at Walmart are ~$18, Autozone has it, too, for not much more). It is in green jugs vs. black for all other Castrol ATFs, so easy to ID. Often Autozone has the quart bottles 2/$10, so that's worth the small premium for the added convenience. I have tried a lot of different fluids over the years and am now settled on this one for any TIV or DexIII application.
It is supposed to span both DexIII and TIV apps with its friction modifiers and other additive package contents. I am finding it works very well in both. MaxLife appears to be a great product, I have used it in the past and have it in some friend and family vehicles that spec Toyota WS or DeVI. It is a newer generation fluid and thinner than either Dex III or TIV (TIV is based on DexIII specs). I understand it has friction modifier characteristics for pulse-width modulated torque converters, which most DexIII and T-IV spec'd cars do not have (they started coming into play around 2000 and slightly afterward). It changes the shifting characteristics slightly (harsher) in the two TIV and DexIII applications I have tried it in.
PS - at a minimum, drain and re-fill your PS reservoir at the same time as the AT service. I have also become a fan of Lubegard Red as a transmission and PS system additive. It has some genuine good chemistry in in and not purely mouse milk, or just additives to make up for worn out fluid. That and the Castrol HM have virtually eliminated the "clunk" or balky shifting the 4ES 5 speed is known for in our car.
It is supposed to span both DexIII and TIV apps with its friction modifiers and other additive package contents. I am finding it works very well in both. MaxLife appears to be a great product, I have used it in the past and have it in some friend and family vehicles that spec Toyota WS or DeVI. It is a newer generation fluid and thinner than either Dex III or TIV (TIV is based on DexIII specs). I understand it has friction modifier characteristics for pulse-width modulated torque converters, which most DexIII and T-IV spec'd cars do not have (they started coming into play around 2000 and slightly afterward). It changes the shifting characteristics slightly (harsher) in the two TIV and DexIII applications I have tried it in.
PS - at a minimum, drain and re-fill your PS reservoir at the same time as the AT service. I have also become a fan of Lubegard Red as a transmission and PS system additive. It has some genuine good chemistry in in and not purely mouse milk, or just additives to make up for worn out fluid. That and the Castrol HM have virtually eliminated the "clunk" or balky shifting the 4ES 5 speed is known for in our car.
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Organized Garage Status (02-15-18)
02-15-18, 11:13 PM
#11
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Thank you for that great review Oro! I'll definitely be looking into the Castrol. I've never used it before and it is easily available in auto stores. I'm really wanting to get this done immediately.
On a side note, I'm looking into doing the motor and tranny mounts with this. Noticed that the rear mount is a huge problem when the transmission is shifting gears or as simple as stepping on the gas and letting off. The entire motor twists so much and causes a jerk. I've read some DIY's on it, and it seems, the front axle goes through the motor mount bracket and will need to be disassembled? Am I correct on this? Is the front motor mount also worth replacing? It seem to not experience as much abuse as the rear, and in my experience there's always that one mount/bushing that doesn't take too much beating and not much wear and tear.
I've also replaced the torque support rod in the past and this made a huge difference in acceleration as well. We work with some polyurethane materials, and I easily concocted and poured it in the sleeve after shaving off what's left of the rubber bushing. It does vibrate much more since the bushing is now solid and comprised of a much harder rubber, but its nothing unbearable.
On a side note, I'm looking into doing the motor and tranny mounts with this. Noticed that the rear mount is a huge problem when the transmission is shifting gears or as simple as stepping on the gas and letting off. The entire motor twists so much and causes a jerk. I've read some DIY's on it, and it seems, the front axle goes through the motor mount bracket and will need to be disassembled? Am I correct on this? Is the front motor mount also worth replacing? It seem to not experience as much abuse as the rear, and in my experience there's always that one mount/bushing that doesn't take too much beating and not much wear and tear.
I've also replaced the torque support rod in the past and this made a huge difference in acceleration as well. We work with some polyurethane materials, and I easily concocted and poured it in the sleeve after shaving off what's left of the rubber bushing. It does vibrate much more since the bushing is now solid and comprised of a much harder rubber, but its nothing unbearable.
02-16-18, 05:48 AM
#12
Driver School Candidate
I have had success with Valvoline Maxlife ATF in /04 ES330 and '05 Sienna calling for Toyota T-IV ATF, FYI.
I have recently had to replace the top torque mount (dog bone) because of vibration in idle and accelerating, it's totally torn. Usually the breakdown of torque mount is the result of other bad lower engine mounts. The front hydraulic mount is the first suspect, fortunately it's the easiest one to replace among the lower mounts. According to the posts I read, the right rear mount (passenger side) and the left transmission mount (driver side) are just solid rubber mounts that almost never fail. I'm talking about 2004-2006 ES330 and 2004-2006 Sienna on which all 4 mounts are standalone and their removal doesn't involve any other major parts. But I know the ES300 right lower mount is built-in with the passenger cv axle bearing support bracket, which is a pain to remove.
I have recently had to replace the top torque mount (dog bone) because of vibration in idle and accelerating, it's totally torn. Usually the breakdown of torque mount is the result of other bad lower engine mounts. The front hydraulic mount is the first suspect, fortunately it's the easiest one to replace among the lower mounts. According to the posts I read, the right rear mount (passenger side) and the left transmission mount (driver side) are just solid rubber mounts that almost never fail. I'm talking about 2004-2006 ES330 and 2004-2006 Sienna on which all 4 mounts are standalone and their removal doesn't involve any other major parts. But I know the ES300 right lower mount is built-in with the passenger cv axle bearing support bracket, which is a pain to remove.
Thank you for that great review Oro! I'll definitely be looking into the Castrol. I've never used it before and it is easily available in auto stores. I'm really wanting to get this done immediately.
On a side note, I'm looking into doing the motor and tranny mounts with this. Noticed that the rear mount is a huge problem when the transmission is shifting gears or as simple as stepping on the gas and letting off. The entire motor twists so much and causes a jerk. I've read some DIY's on it, and it seems, the front axle goes through the motor mount bracket and will need to be disassembled? Am I correct on this? Is the front motor mount also worth replacing? It seem to not experience as much abuse as the rear, and in my experience there's always that one mount/bushing that doesn't take too much beating and not much wear and tear.
I've also replaced the torque support rod in the past and this made a huge difference in acceleration as well. We work with some polyurethane materials, and I easily concocted and poured it in the sleeve after shaving off what's left of the rubber bushing. It does vibrate much more since the bushing is now solid and comprised of a much harder rubber, but its nothing unbearable.
On a side note, I'm looking into doing the motor and tranny mounts with this. Noticed that the rear mount is a huge problem when the transmission is shifting gears or as simple as stepping on the gas and letting off. The entire motor twists so much and causes a jerk. I've read some DIY's on it, and it seems, the front axle goes through the motor mount bracket and will need to be disassembled? Am I correct on this? Is the front motor mount also worth replacing? It seem to not experience as much abuse as the rear, and in my experience there's always that one mount/bushing that doesn't take too much beating and not much wear and tear.
I've also replaced the torque support rod in the past and this made a huge difference in acceleration as well. We work with some polyurethane materials, and I easily concocted and poured it in the sleeve after shaving off what's left of the rubber bushing. It does vibrate much more since the bushing is now solid and comprised of a much harder rubber, but its nothing unbearable.
Last edited by seanddd; 02-16-18 at 05:51 AM.
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