How to change oil pan on Lexus es 350?
01-10-18, 01:17 PM
#1
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How to change oil pan on Lexus es 350?
So I have a hole in my oil pan from going over a very high speed bump. I bought the replacement for it but I want to see if I could fix this myself before having to go spend alot of $. My car is a 2010 Lexus ES 350 V6-Engine. Any ideas would be so helpful, THANK YOU IN ADVANCE! 
01-10-18, 04:47 PM
#2
Lexus Champion
Happened to me on my Mercedes many years ago. I filed a claim with my insurance and they paid for it.
I had no deductible, and my rates didn't increase. They also gave me a free rental car for the duration of the repair (a Lexus), but your insurance coverage may be different.
I had no deductible, and my rates didn't increase. They also gave me a free rental car for the duration of the repair (a Lexus), but your insurance coverage may be different.
Last edited by PFB; 01-11-18 at 05:44 AM.
01-10-18, 11:19 PM
#3
I r&r’d the pan on our 2002 300 last summer. You can do this with jack stabds, a few simple tools and chemicals, and patience.
Presuming its the same procedure (safe):
You remove oil and the bolts and then:
1.Pry pan off carefully with screwdriver, the rtv will make this difficult w/o damage. Since you are tossing the pan, this is a little easier and you can pry towards it and not gouge the housing surface.
2. spend a good 1/2 hour with a paint scraper, rags, and acetone lying on your back to get the housing surface clean. Be glad you are not doing the pan, too as it is more difficult.
3. prep housing surface with light stone or similar and emery cloth.
4. clean both surfaces (pan and housing) with alcohol to degrease.
5. dress each surface with Aviation #3 or similar, then tack on gasket.
6. finger tighten all bolts diagonally, then come back and torque (10 ft/lbs roughly, Check this) in the same pattern.
7. let set up overnight and repeat torque sequence.
8. Fill and run for a day or week, then check torque again.
It will now last a very long time.
You can use rtv instead of a gasket to speed the install a small amount, but then you are in for a real headache again cleaning it up if you ever open it again. Also, using rtv also requires waiting and re-torquing so no savings there. I prefer gasket to rtv unless it is a VERY problematic/leak prone application, like, say, every BMW engine ever made.
Presuming its the same procedure (safe):
You remove oil and the bolts and then:
1.Pry pan off carefully with screwdriver, the rtv will make this difficult w/o damage. Since you are tossing the pan, this is a little easier and you can pry towards it and not gouge the housing surface.
2. spend a good 1/2 hour with a paint scraper, rags, and acetone lying on your back to get the housing surface clean. Be glad you are not doing the pan, too as it is more difficult.
3. prep housing surface with light stone or similar and emery cloth.
4. clean both surfaces (pan and housing) with alcohol to degrease.
5. dress each surface with Aviation #3 or similar, then tack on gasket.
6. finger tighten all bolts diagonally, then come back and torque (10 ft/lbs roughly, Check this) in the same pattern.
7. let set up overnight and repeat torque sequence.
8. Fill and run for a day or week, then check torque again.
It will now last a very long time.
You can use rtv instead of a gasket to speed the install a small amount, but then you are in for a real headache again cleaning it up if you ever open it again. Also, using rtv also requires waiting and re-torquing so no savings there. I prefer gasket to rtv unless it is a VERY problematic/leak prone application, like, say, every BMW engine ever made.
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