Car stalls, won't start right away, but will start again after a few.
09-18-17, 11:01 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wa
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car stalls, won't start right away, but will start again after a few.
I have been spending a lot of money on this car lately. I replaced the igniter after it went out. A few days later a coil pack went out. I replaced all of them. I also replaced the spark plugs. I put an injector cleaner also. All was going well then it just stalled as I was driving again. Not even a week after the tune up. Luckily right in front of my house. I don't know what to do with this car. Could anyone enlighten me?
09-18-17, 11:19 PM
#2
I would say to you welcome, and we will try to help.
The other thing I want to say is it sounds like you are following a policy of throwing parts at a problem instead of fully diagnosing it. This is normal when you don't know cars well and follow what sounds like good advice on the internet. I suggest you get some tools, a decent/good multimeter, and carefully diagnose things. A few dollars on a cheap OBDII reader will also save you a lot of money.
It sounds like you have a power problem that has led you down blind alleys. have you checked the battery via a (free) load test or the alternator via a (free) test? You can diagnose a lot of problems with free tests, or an $8 OBD reader or $8 multimeter.
The other thing I want to say is it sounds like you are following a policy of throwing parts at a problem instead of fully diagnosing it. This is normal when you don't know cars well and follow what sounds like good advice on the internet. I suggest you get some tools, a decent/good multimeter, and carefully diagnose things. A few dollars on a cheap OBDII reader will also save you a lot of money.
It sounds like you have a power problem that has led you down blind alleys. have you checked the battery via a (free) load test or the alternator via a (free) test? You can diagnose a lot of problems with free tests, or an $8 OBD reader or $8 multimeter.
09-18-17, 11:43 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wa
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would say to you welcome, and we will try to help.
The other thing I want to say is it sounds like you are following a policy of throwing parts at a problem instead of fully diagnosing it. This is normal when you don't know cars well and follow what sounds like good advice on the internet. I suggest you get some tools, a decent/good multimeter, and carefully diagnose things. A few dollars on a cheap OBDII reader will also save you a lot of money.
It sounds like you have a power problem that has led you down blind alleys. have you checked the battery via a (free) load test or the alternator via a (free) test? You can diagnose a lot of problems with free tests, or an $8 OBD reader or $8 multimeter.
The other thing I want to say is it sounds like you are following a policy of throwing parts at a problem instead of fully diagnosing it. This is normal when you don't know cars well and follow what sounds like good advice on the internet. I suggest you get some tools, a decent/good multimeter, and carefully diagnose things. A few dollars on a cheap OBDII reader will also save you a lot of money.
It sounds like you have a power problem that has led you down blind alleys. have you checked the battery via a (free) load test or the alternator via a (free) test? You can diagnose a lot of problems with free tests, or an $8 OBD reader or $8 multimeter.
I am getting an obd scanner tomorrow. Last time I checked I had a CEL due to a faulty upstream o2 sensor.
I am definitely getting an obd2 scanner tomorrow.
09-19-17, 12:04 AM
#4
Let's put anything else on hold until you get the OBDII scanner and some electrical tools.. Do you have a multimeter? You need to check your alternator output, and if that's ok, then parasitic draw on your battery. These are cheap and easy to narrow down the problem.
If anything I said Implied that, I did not mean it. This is not necessarily inherently obvious stuff, and geniuses can get fooled. I have learned this stuff through repetition and getting fooled.
I re-read again your first post and it sounds like you have a very strong battery and a bad alternator. my guess/not a guarantee. Where do you live in Wa?
I am no genius, like you said lol.
I re-read again your first post and it sounds like you have a very strong battery and a bad alternator. my guess/not a guarantee. Where do you live in Wa?
09-19-17, 12:28 AM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wa
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Let's put anything else on hold until you get the OBDII scanner and some electrical tools.. Do you have a multimeter? You need to check your alternator output, and if that's ok, then parasitic draw on your battery. These are cheap and easy to narrow down the problem.
If anything I said Implied that, I did not mean it. This is not necessarily inherently obvious stuff, and geniuses can get fooled. I have learned this stuff through repetition and getting fooled.
I re-read again your first post and it sounds like you have a very strong battery and a bad alternator. my guess/not a guarantee. Where do you live in Wa?
If anything I said Implied that, I did not mean it. This is not necessarily inherently obvious stuff, and geniuses can get fooled. I have learned this stuff through repetition and getting fooled.
I re-read again your first post and it sounds like you have a very strong battery and a bad alternator. my guess/not a guarantee. Where do you live in Wa?
Plus I noticed something pretty weird. I had a light on on my dashboard warning me of a rear light bulb being out. That light disappeared mysteriously. I will run the codes to see what's up...I live in tacoma, wa. Do you live in WA?
09-19-17, 09:17 AM
#6
I live around Snoqualmie/North Bend now, I lived in Seattle a decade. My parents live in Gig Harbor and I was there this past weekend and passed through Tacoma. If you were nearby I was going to offer to do a simple diagnostic for you. I have in the past received similar good help from (particularly my Isuzu) car forums.
If it runs, you can take it to any O'Reilly or other similar Auto Parts shop and they can put a diagnostic tool on the alternator and check parameters for free. Basically, it needs to make more than 14 volts at idle, and never more than 14.6 at any speed. Anything outside that is a fail. Also, you can disconnect the ground wire/strap, put your meter in line with the ground, and put it in milliamp mode. Anything over about 50 ma would be a fail - not necessarily the alternator (but possibly). You can also put the meter across the terminals when running in AC mode, and if you can measure AC current, you have failed rectifier diodes in the alternator.
I am not SURE this is your problem, but it is an increasingly common problem with rebuilt alternators with junk Chinese boards in them. And it creates really weird electrical problems that have you scratching your head until you finally neck it down to the source. Now, to be fair, my factory Acura (Isuzu OEM) alternator failed in this manner, but it took 19 years. Foreign rebuilt alternators will do this in about 6 to 18 months these days in a disturbingly high percentage of the time (happened on our 2002 ES). I rebuild my own electrics now with US or Japanese components. [/rant]
If it runs, you can take it to any O'Reilly or other similar Auto Parts shop and they can put a diagnostic tool on the alternator and check parameters for free. Basically, it needs to make more than 14 volts at idle, and never more than 14.6 at any speed. Anything outside that is a fail. Also, you can disconnect the ground wire/strap, put your meter in line with the ground, and put it in milliamp mode. Anything over about 50 ma would be a fail - not necessarily the alternator (but possibly). You can also put the meter across the terminals when running in AC mode, and if you can measure AC current, you have failed rectifier diodes in the alternator.
I am not SURE this is your problem, but it is an increasingly common problem with rebuilt alternators with junk Chinese boards in them. And it creates really weird electrical problems that have you scratching your head until you finally neck it down to the source. Now, to be fair, my factory Acura (Isuzu OEM) alternator failed in this manner, but it took 19 years. Foreign rebuilt alternators will do this in about 6 to 18 months these days in a disturbingly high percentage of the time (happened on our 2002 ES). I rebuild my own electrics now with US or Japanese components. [/rant]
09-19-17, 11:34 AM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wa
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I live around Snoqualmie/North Bend now, I lived in Seattle a decade. My parents live in Gig Harbor and I was there this past weekend and passed through Tacoma. If you were nearby I was going to offer to do a simple diagnostic for you. I have in the past received similar good help from (particularly my Isuzu) car forums.
If it runs, you can take it to any O'Reilly or other similar Auto Parts shop and they can put a diagnostic tool on the alternator and check parameters for free. Basically, it needs to make more than 14 volts at idle, and never more than 14.6 at any speed. Anything outside that is a fail. Also, you can disconnect the ground wire/strap, put your meter in line with the ground, and put it in milliamp mode. Anything over about 50 ma would be a fail - not necessarily the alternator (but possibly). You can also put the meter across the terminals when running in AC mode, and if you can measure AC current, you have failed rectifier diodes in the alternator.
I am not SURE this is your problem, but it is an increasingly common problem with rebuilt alternators with junk Chinese boards in them. And it creates really weird electrical problems that have you scratching your head until you finally neck it down to the source. Now, to be fair, my factory Acura (Isuzu OEM) alternator failed in this manner, but it took 19 years. Foreign rebuilt alternators will do this in about 6 to 18 months these days in a disturbingly high percentage of the time (happened on our 2002 ES). I rebuild my own electrics now with US or Japanese components. [/rant]
If it runs, you can take it to any O'Reilly or other similar Auto Parts shop and they can put a diagnostic tool on the alternator and check parameters for free. Basically, it needs to make more than 14 volts at idle, and never more than 14.6 at any speed. Anything outside that is a fail. Also, you can disconnect the ground wire/strap, put your meter in line with the ground, and put it in milliamp mode. Anything over about 50 ma would be a fail - not necessarily the alternator (but possibly). You can also put the meter across the terminals when running in AC mode, and if you can measure AC current, you have failed rectifier diodes in the alternator.
I am not SURE this is your problem, but it is an increasingly common problem with rebuilt alternators with junk Chinese boards in them. And it creates really weird electrical problems that have you scratching your head until you finally neck it down to the source. Now, to be fair, my factory Acura (Isuzu OEM) alternator failed in this manner, but it took 19 years. Foreign rebuilt alternators will do this in about 6 to 18 months these days in a disturbingly high percentage of the time (happened on our 2002 ES). I rebuild my own electrics now with US or Japanese components. [/rant]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post