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Radiator Questions

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Old 01-05-17, 10:25 PM
  #16  
surgeon0
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For the engine light, I can think of some reasons using my limited knowledge of some things that I worked on recently. I never had one a direct overheat condition on our toyota or honda vehicles.

Based on stuff I did on the honda, the thermostat housing has a coolant temp sensor ect1 for temp readings and ect2 controls the fans. It takes a few cycles for the coolant temp code 0128 to come up. If you were to drive it longer with gauge needle high, you might get the light. Maybe the coolant leak is not big enough to cause temp difference that fast if the drive was not long enough (or traffic is not stop-go). You probably just made it back ok even with 1 fan partially cooling. So first codes might be 127 (circuit) or 128 (temp).

As for AC there will not be a code, just mess up of the condenser if you used the ac with busted condenser. I see slight oily/wet spot near the ac condenser tube (there is desiccant in it). Maybe you leaked freon, messed up PAG oil, etc. If you engage the compressor in that condition, it will start destroying itself internally with/without burning the clutch. And when you turn on the AC the fans would come on too.

Fans come on at 94 deg C so if you had scanner hooked up, at least you can check that and compare to your current situation. But with 3-4 miles of drive, it depends on several factors. How long you waited to warm up the car, ambient temp, etc. If you started your drive quickly and did not reach much over operating temp, then you saved some time though it put more load on your engine.

Not in your current situation but just trying to answer " What makes my fan kick on? ". You can normally test this. It will take some time on our toyota's. You have to idle like 15-20 mins min for fans to come on (scanner would show 94). If you turn on the AC on at anytime, fans should come on. Check low setting and then high.

I recently went through AC compressor replacement under warranty on current honda. With all the ac discharge/recharge and replacement it would have cost me 1100. My old honda radiator replacement cost me around 300. Yours will be less for both but expect 700-ish if going through indy mechanic. Instead of new aftermarket, stick with a used Denso (if not new) radiator and same goes for the condenser. I was going to buy a new Denso condenser (80) if I had to. When I did not DIY my honda van radiator was replaced by mechanic with whatever, and it lasted 3 yrs; when it split at plastic seam now, I replaced again with whatever on purpose since it was old. Take care of the lexus, it will last.
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es3002 (01-12-17)
Old 01-07-17, 02:01 AM
  #17  
ES300NZ
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Originally Posted by es3002
Thank you. I dont have any other means of transportation and no funds, I am a female btw, not that it matters! I appreciate the input. What would be the difference between fully aluminum and the plastic. Why do some have clear tanks on the side?
Plastic tanks are made to fail. which is good. they will fail before engine damage occurs. the tank is black when new, and goes green when older, then light brown which it's about to fail.

Alloy tanks (or caps or upper and lower tanks, etc), do not fail, in theory. They are for cars which will push the cooling system harder, and are specifically controlled or monitored to compensate for that.

I've never seen clear tanks, but I suspect it would be a variation on the same plastic theory, made to fail before damage occurs with the added bonus of actually being able to see the contents / fluid level.


Look, if I'm in bad shape financially, and I can't afford a radiator, but need one, there is a solution. Find a wrecker thats got reasonable prices. find a replacement for say $50 (or less), not specifically for your car, but a replacement with the same size piping holes. so your hoses will go on. something that will physically fit or be slightly (but not half the size) too small in the space.

* mount it in place with cable ties. make sure it will not 'rub' and make a hole in itself. (use anything random to stop that happening).
*you cannot have 'kinks in radiator hoses
*remember to flush the radiator before fitting it, so find the 'out hole' and use a hose to pour water into that hole until it runs clear.
*solve the route of pipes with steel pipe from an exhaust shop or similar.
*you can use plumbing supply pipe, but it won't last long at all. (a day or two).
*seal the joins up with the screw on type radiator piping clips
*dont worry about the sensor on the bottom of the radiator, when you unplug that the fans will run at 100% all of the time, that's a good thing for now. save the sensor, you need that.


this will get you safely back on the road again, fill it with water, and don't bother with coolant, you'll be ripping it out again as soon as you can afford to replace it.

this is dodgy as, but it works, and it's safe.
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es3002 (01-12-17)
Old 01-12-17, 06:40 AM
  #18  
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Update: Purchasing the radiator and dropping it off to be fixed on Saturday. ($175.00) to Install new radiator sound about right???? Also, The car shouldnt over heat after this correct? What would be the first signs I have extensive damage? While driving I have NOT let it reach the red line and have topped off the system every time I drive it and I never drive it more than 10-15 min or over 4 miles at a time. Thank you all!
Old 01-12-17, 10:39 AM
  #19  
surgeon0
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Yeah sounds about right. I remember paying 130 (in Tennessee) long time ago in a small mech shop. Make sure to tell them to use Red or Pink coolant and not green. Mine was filled with green and I flushed it out myself. Its not a big deal though. I would prefer to keep it similar to oem color (there are so many different colors available).

It takes a bit of time for extensive damage, unlike your short drive. I think you did extremely well in taking care.

Edit: Btw, if you know the thermostat was not changed until now (100K+) might be a good idea to change it while you do the radiator work to save on time and money (oem is $12-22, get it from toyota dealer not lexus). It is normally stocked. tstat 90916-03075 gasket 16325-62010. Autoparts store, Stant OE-Exact is ok too if not oem.

Last edited by surgeon0; 01-12-17 at 07:39 PM.
Old 01-20-17, 06:40 PM
  #20  
es3002
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Radiator and compressor for 150
85 labor
70 for coolant and freon.
I'd say i did good for a woman. 👍🏽
Old 01-20-17, 09:57 PM
  #21  
surgeon0
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Nice! You can finally have peace of mind.
Old 01-21-17, 12:14 AM
  #22  
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well done, that's great news. I know woman expect to hit with high prices, but I've found my hot wifes gets better deals that I do. But she does know quite a bit about cars so that seems to help.
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