I've experiencing a perplexing issue. I have a relatively new battery from Adv Auto (which is still under warranty). Twice in the last couple months, I've attempted to start the car and it was dead (it would begin to turn over and then begin clicking). Both times, I took the battery to AA for an overnight charge and, once I reinstalled, it was fine again (the latest was a few days ago and it started fine today).

I have noticed each time that the battery terminals (especially on the negative) wasn't quite as securely tightened when compared to the positive side. This time I made CERTAIN they were completely tightened with some Permatex.

So......here's the question: Can a slightly loose connection drain the battery or should I consider the alternator?

Loose connection will prevent proper charging from alt to battery. Also, loose connection will prevent starter from full draw from battery. Permatex not good, get ends that tighten up properly.

I forgot to mention that the cold cranking amps went from 700 to 100. Would loose connections cause this drop as well?

Sure will! That's measured from battery to starter, ergo, bad connection, low ccas.

Thank you!

You may also have a parasitic draw - an electrical component that is stuck in the On position when the car is Off. Lastly, the alternator may not be recharging the battery.

I just had a thought. A while back, my amp (which is under the passenger seat, was damaged with water. Consequently. even when the car is off the speakers pop. I wonder if it's possible that this is causing a drain?? I can't think of anything else that would be On.

Sounds like it.

Try removing the fuse from batt +ve to the amp. Assuming you have a fuse there it might be fastest way to check on it?

Another source of parasitic draw is ac compressor relay often fails open (at least in the honda). But then you might be able to notice the compressor on right?

Can somone assist with the specific location of this fuse? I cannot find a diagram.

Is there access to unplug the amp? That would be the easiest test. Finding the right fuse would be tricky without a multimeter. Start by looking at the fuse box under the steering wheel, that has most of the interior fuses.

Most of the time, aftermarket modifications are the first places to check for electrical gremlins.

This thread mentions 3 audio fuses.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...ml#post7377919

Maybe take a look at this and find where the amp power disconnect access is.