fortitude

2002 ES300 - Is my torque data correct

FRONT CALIPERS (I have the double piston fixed caliper)
Torque plate bolts - 77 ft lbs
Slide Pin bolts - 25 ft lbs

REAR CALIPERS (I have the single piston floating caliper)
Torque plate bolts - 34 ft lb??? - this seem incredibly low - i removed these to inspect the rotor and needed a breaker bar to get them off
Slide pin/bolt (there is only one) - 25 ft lbs

I am aware of syl-glide on the slide pins - any other areas recommended?

Also, I removed the current front and rear pads to inspect them for wear. These were installed by Lexus some 50+K miles ago. I found traces of what appears to be the blue brake quiet gel on the top and bottom ears of the pads. These are the ears that fit into the support plate hardware. Any feedback on this?

Oro

Last time I did mine (18 months ago), I recall 80 ft/ lbs front mounting bolts and 30 ft/lbs on the sliding pins, roughly what you quoted. The rear mounting bolts are about 40 ft/lbs, much less force back there. I recall my suv as similar/the same, so this is pretty standard.

Make sure your pins are clean and free of old grease, rust or oxidation, etc (I run them on a wire wheel on a bench grinder before re-greasing). I used to use blue (or orange) gel anti-squeal, but was convinced from expert advice to skip that and just grease the back of the pads with sil-glyde where it contacts the brake piston. I've been doing that for several years now and no issues - no squeals, uneven wear, etc. Scrape off the old anti-squeal goo and lube with Sil-Glyde would be what I would do.

IMO the biggest thing to getting a brake job right and lasting is cleaning and greasing the pins properly and making sure the hats are installed properly and are not torn. This keeps the calipers floating correctly and the system working as it should for the whole life of the pad.

Don't forget to de-grease the rotor just before you put the wheel back on.

fortitude

Thank you for the response