P0171 code - fail to diagnose
#16
Check my thread here,
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...xperience.html
Basically get yourself the ELM327, best device out there, shy of $30.
So, with another update:
I replaced the front fuel filter under the hood, the car feels much much better, the engine feels torque-y again, but it still has that drowning symptom where it'll just go nowhere but stutter when the gas pedal is floored.
I ordered a fuel rail off of an ES that has 130,000 miles.
After 255,000 miles on my car, I think the fuel injectors are just about to giving up. And since I got a really good deal on the used fuel rail set, I will just put the new set of O-rings on it and fit on the car. And as suggested by mr. moon phase, the Berryman B12 should do the job of a through cleaning.
Will report back once the new fuel rail is put in.
*hmmm, I need to open up the old fuel filter and see what it looks like on the inside!
#17
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SC
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For the same error I wanted to clean the throttle body, but after I took off the covers, I found that the bellow to the throttle body was disconnected... After I put it back, everything is working good. Before, the engine was jerking at very low speed.
#18
UPDATE:
I seem to have solved my problem, here are the things I did, although they are a couple of things, it doesn't mean you have to exactly do what I did, or change all the parts I changed. One of those might be your problem, all I can say is that I have no issues with the car anymore and she's running healthy as should be. Remember that my car has 250k miles on it, so those items may have been calling for a replacement that's how I planned my steps under the hood.
1- Replaced fuel filter that's under the hood. Got it for $30. Car felt way more responsive right after that.
2- Bough new o-rings from auto zone, $10.
Now this is CRUCIAL for the installation!
Please remember to lubricate the o-rings with fuel if you have any laying around, just dab it in fuel and quickly insert in fuel rail.
I have found that they are more prone to leaking from the top(fuel rail head) than leaking from the bottom. Because putting that o-ring securely won't happen if your o-rings are bone dry.
I didn't have a gallon of fuel, so I used Quick Wrench Dry lubrication, and spray just a liiiiiitle tiny bit on the o-ring, wipe off any residue on any other thing other than the o-ring. Wish I took pictures of this because of how important it is, but in the moment I just was super focused on getting the car running back up again.
I stress about lubricating the o -rings because, it took me 3 times to get it right. So save yourself time and do it right from the beginning. Without lubrication the o-rings either didn't sit right, or were crunched while seating them on the head.
3- Got a new MAF sensor for $80.
So all in all, I am not sure what fixed the issue exactly, whether it was the fuel filter or the MAF sensor. But boy am I glad that it's over with.
I seem to have solved my problem, here are the things I did, although they are a couple of things, it doesn't mean you have to exactly do what I did, or change all the parts I changed. One of those might be your problem, all I can say is that I have no issues with the car anymore and she's running healthy as should be. Remember that my car has 250k miles on it, so those items may have been calling for a replacement that's how I planned my steps under the hood.
1- Replaced fuel filter that's under the hood. Got it for $30. Car felt way more responsive right after that.
2- Bough new o-rings from auto zone, $10.
Now this is CRUCIAL for the installation!
Please remember to lubricate the o-rings with fuel if you have any laying around, just dab it in fuel and quickly insert in fuel rail.
I have found that they are more prone to leaking from the top(fuel rail head) than leaking from the bottom. Because putting that o-ring securely won't happen if your o-rings are bone dry.
I didn't have a gallon of fuel, so I used Quick Wrench Dry lubrication, and spray just a liiiiiitle tiny bit on the o-ring, wipe off any residue on any other thing other than the o-ring. Wish I took pictures of this because of how important it is, but in the moment I just was super focused on getting the car running back up again.
I stress about lubricating the o -rings because, it took me 3 times to get it right. So save yourself time and do it right from the beginning. Without lubrication the o-rings either didn't sit right, or were crunched while seating them on the head.
3- Got a new MAF sensor for $80.
So all in all, I am not sure what fixed the issue exactly, whether it was the fuel filter or the MAF sensor. But boy am I glad that it's over with.
#19
Lexus Champion
Nice work and the great thing is you saved a small fortune by doing the work yourself. Taking a car to a mechanic or the dealer with the CEL light aka money light on makes them shriek with glee.
#22
Mine came on the other day I forget what the code number was but I did a quick scan and Google with the phone, turned ouy it was something with the charcoal canister. Reset it and it hasn't been back since. If I had went to the dealer I am sure I would have a nice new charcoal canister at lord knows how many hundreds of dollars. I love my ELM327 adapter, it just paid for itself again.
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whytry
GS - 3rd Gen (2006-2011)
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02-02-18 01:10 PM