'99 ES300 Misfires, Bunch of Codes on Bank 1
11-01-15, 10:05 AM
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'99 ES300 Misfires, Bunch of Codes on Bank 1
Hey guys,
lot of knowledge out there so I was hoping someone could help me isolate the problem I've been having with my '99 ES300. It been misfiring lately, mostly when it rains, and the computer is putting out the following codes. P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306, P0171. All of these misfires are on bank 2, there is also a code showing a lean condition on bank 1 ( P0171). The last time I went to my mechanic, he said it is likely an O2 sensor issue that is showing up as a misfire. The car runs well about 80-90% of the time. Meaning, the misfires seem to be random and they do happen when the car has been running warm for a bit of time. A friend told me it's possible that under humid conditions there could be some humidity built up in the pistons that is causing the engine to lose power and the car just need to be warmed up first, idle for 5m+, before being driven. The spark plugs were replaced less than 10k ago.
lot of knowledge out there so I was hoping someone could help me isolate the problem I've been having with my '99 ES300. It been misfiring lately, mostly when it rains, and the computer is putting out the following codes. P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306, P0171. All of these misfires are on bank 2, there is also a code showing a lean condition on bank 1 ( P0171). The last time I went to my mechanic, he said it is likely an O2 sensor issue that is showing up as a misfire. The car runs well about 80-90% of the time. Meaning, the misfires seem to be random and they do happen when the car has been running warm for a bit of time. A friend told me it's possible that under humid conditions there could be some humidity built up in the pistons that is causing the engine to lose power and the car just need to be warmed up first, idle for 5m+, before being driven. The spark plugs were replaced less than 10k ago.
Last edited by davidm190; 11-02-15 at 07:26 AM.
11-01-15, 12:02 PM
#2
BEFORE you go replace these things...
Start with the VVTI solenoids or Oil control valves.
On Rockauto, aftermarket Dorman's are 100$ for the pair.
I spent 180$ on three coils, only to have the misfire come back 15mins later.
I never changed plugs since mine were [at the time] 8k old...
Usual suspect is those, on the 99+ motors with VVTI. Not to mention these cars are in the year/mile range for these kinds of issues to come up.
Best part, its so simple you can swap them yourself in about 10minutes....
Start with the VVTI solenoids or Oil control valves.
On Rockauto, aftermarket Dorman's are 100$ for the pair.
I spent 180$ on three coils, only to have the misfire come back 15mins later.
I never changed plugs since mine were [at the time] 8k old...
Usual suspect is those, on the 99+ motors with VVTI. Not to mention these cars are in the year/mile range for these kinds of issues to come up.
Best part, its so simple you can swap them yourself in about 10minutes....
11-03-15, 01:17 PM
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My dad told me to let it warm up a bit for 5 minute before driving and it seems to be working. He said that the humidity build-up in the engine may be causing a lack of detonation and thus the misfire. Who knows but the check engine codes and hesitation went away. If it continues to be a problem, I'll look at new solenoids. Thanks for the replies guys! :-)
11-03-15, 06:54 PM
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If youre having misfires and its running lean on one cylinder it may be a fuel issue or vacuum leak. If it was a vacuum leak, it would probably be more constant.
The fact the misfire are random and across the engine may mean its a fuel issue. When you accelerate do you feel the engine detonating or pinging roughly?
On the spark side, I am not sure if the 99 has COP with 6 ignition coils, or the 3 big in the front with the loop around. You want to check the ignition coils and look inside them with a flashlight to see if any corrosion is building up, which will more than likely look like green oxidation. It also could possibly be a bad igniter (if your car has one), but that is the last thing to consider.
Inspect spark plug wires. Even if spark plug wires and are relatively new, they can get cracked, corroded and have all sorts of issues so check them out to see if there is any green under, or if any of the lines are cracked or damaged. Also check the air filter to see how dirty it is and if its ever been replaced, and also pull the spark plugs and look at them. What kind of plugs is it running and are they gaped properly?
The fact the misfire are random and across the engine may mean its a fuel issue. When you accelerate do you feel the engine detonating or pinging roughly?
On the spark side, I am not sure if the 99 has COP with 6 ignition coils, or the 3 big in the front with the loop around. You want to check the ignition coils and look inside them with a flashlight to see if any corrosion is building up, which will more than likely look like green oxidation. It also could possibly be a bad igniter (if your car has one), but that is the last thing to consider.
Inspect spark plug wires. Even if spark plug wires and are relatively new, they can get cracked, corroded and have all sorts of issues so check them out to see if there is any green under, or if any of the lines are cracked or damaged. Also check the air filter to see how dirty it is and if its ever been replaced, and also pull the spark plugs and look at them. What kind of plugs is it running and are they gaped properly?
11-08-15, 02:41 PM
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Air filter - the one in the cabin is missing, the one under the hood was recently replaced.
Spark plugs - 6 coils under the hood on this one. I shall inspect them, and the wires today.
I agree with the vacuum leak analysis. And, yes the engine does tend to hesitate a little bit while driving. It is not as noticable in city driving because it's mostly in the 1-2k rpm range, however when you accelerate into the 3-4k rpm range you can feel it a bit. I use 87 octane fuel, from Shell usually, as the Manuel says it is adequate. The manual states 91+ for better performance, but it's also pricier.
Spark plugs - 6 coils under the hood on this one. I shall inspect them, and the wires today.
I agree with the vacuum leak analysis. And, yes the engine does tend to hesitate a little bit while driving. It is not as noticable in city driving because it's mostly in the 1-2k rpm range, however when you accelerate into the 3-4k rpm range you can feel it a bit. I use 87 octane fuel, from Shell usually, as the Manuel says it is adequate. The manual states 91+ for better performance, but it's also pricier.
11-08-15, 02:46 PM
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Could this be a dirty MAF sensor causing all this trouble? I'm doing some research and it seems like it could be causing the P0171 code and all sorts of problems.
Last edited by davidm190; 11-08-15 at 03:16 PM.
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11-08-15, 04:53 PM
#8
No mention of the mileage on the car, mine had a similar code when I bought it, and $90 O2 sensor fixed it right up. Codes alone are not the be all, end all diagnosis for problems, but they are a good indicator of where to start looking. It seems you've had this problem for over a year with the same codes, perhaps replacing the sensor would be a good idea? And you can get perfectly decent set of 6 new coils on ebay for under $60, if the misfire codes return after clearing them and replacing the O2 sensor.
11-08-15, 09:15 PM
#12
I had bank 2 misfire codes, and it was my bank 1 OCV that was bad.
Go Figure.
Today I replaced them sequentially and tested to determine this. Bizarre (made a separate post on this).
Our car has 247k on it, so I didn't worry about replacing one "good" OCV to get the right one; Even though the OBD said bank 2 was the issue, I bought both. Good thing I did since it was actually bank 1. I was able to find Toyota brand OCVs, both for $100 delivered. Taking them out and installing new ones takes a 3/8 ratchet, extension, a 5mm hex drive and a 10mm socket, and 10 minutes or less. Easy-peasy, lemon-squeezy. You might want to take off the air box cover to make getting at the power connectors easier; if so add a #2 phillips to the tool list and then it will take the full 10 minutes.
Based on your comments in post #6 above, that is classic OCV issue. I'd order both (presuming your car has, say, 150k on it or more), and just swap them and move on. A dirty MAF sensor would not cause this problem.
Bad fuel pressure regulator would not fit the code pattern.
If you saw the junk I blow out of my cabin air filter every six months, you'd not drive w/o one! Get one. If you order parts online from RockAuto, for example, find a filter coming from the same warehouse as your other parts and it's like $3. Get one.
I slit the difference and run 89 octane. The performance with 91 is much better. Even better is REAL gas, (E0). The better mileage offsets the cost. For example, if 89 is $.20 or less more than 87, I get more miles per dollar buying 89. (I can get up to 4 mpg more mile per gallon buying 91 E0 than corn-diluted 87 that most pumps belch out). So you need to do a little experimenting and match before you decide that defaulting to 87 is the best option.
Go Figure.
Today I replaced them sequentially and tested to determine this. Bizarre (made a separate post on this).
Our car has 247k on it, so I didn't worry about replacing one "good" OCV to get the right one; Even though the OBD said bank 2 was the issue, I bought both. Good thing I did since it was actually bank 1. I was able to find Toyota brand OCVs, both for $100 delivered. Taking them out and installing new ones takes a 3/8 ratchet, extension, a 5mm hex drive and a 10mm socket, and 10 minutes or less. Easy-peasy, lemon-squeezy. You might want to take off the air box cover to make getting at the power connectors easier; if so add a #2 phillips to the tool list and then it will take the full 10 minutes.
Based on your comments in post #6 above, that is classic OCV issue. I'd order both (presuming your car has, say, 150k on it or more), and just swap them and move on. A dirty MAF sensor would not cause this problem.
Bad fuel pressure regulator would not fit the code pattern.
If you saw the junk I blow out of my cabin air filter every six months, you'd not drive w/o one! Get one. If you order parts online from RockAuto, for example, find a filter coming from the same warehouse as your other parts and it's like $3. Get one.
I slit the difference and run 89 octane. The performance with 91 is much better. Even better is REAL gas, (E0). The better mileage offsets the cost. For example, if 89 is $.20 or less more than 87, I get more miles per dollar buying 89. (I can get up to 4 mpg more mile per gallon buying 91 E0 than corn-diluted 87 that most pumps belch out). So you need to do a little experimenting and match before you decide that defaulting to 87 is the best option.
Last edited by Oro; 11-08-15 at 09:29 PM.
11-09-15, 08:17 AM
#14
Those will likely correct your problem.
Check ebay, too. I was able to get the Toyota ones for the same price ($78 delivered for both). If not, the Dorman should work OK. The mileage and age are well within where these normally fail.
Check ebay, too. I was able to get the Toyota ones for the same price ($78 delivered for both). If not, the Dorman should work OK. The mileage and age are well within where these normally fail.
11-09-15, 08:51 AM
#15
Does the 2002 ES have the Oil Control Valve Filter?