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That was basically the same search I did that didn't yield anything clear. Google is sometimes helpful, sometimes not (more often helpful than not).
ES300NZ:
Very helpful. I used that guy's vid on the T-belt. Except for the crank bolt advice and vague crank alignment pics, it was the best out there. However in that vid, his car has a very different breather apparatus and battery location vs. a 2002+ ES. I was wondering what to do w/regard to that, and if I take the battery out, do I lose any codes on the radio or anything like that. So it is still vague on my application but it gets me close.Thank you very much, and if I can find that guy I'll paypal him a Jackson in thanks for the t-belt video I used yesterday.
Lesson learned - do not attempt the t-belt unless you have an acetylene torch. I tried every method short of that (bumping, impact hammer, air-driven impact wrench at 100psi). Nothing worked until we fired it and let it cool.
That was basically the same search I did that didn't yield anything clear.
The video posted by ES300NZ is the first result from that Google search I posted. Anyway, taking out the battery won't do anything to the stereo except you may lose your station presets. On replacing the thermostat, if you want an exact removal procedure get a hold of the factory service manual. The job is pretty basic you remove the air cleaner, a couple of connectors, remove the water inlet pipe then remove the 'stat housing.
BTW I've done this job without removing the battery so it's not necessary although it may give you a bit more room to work.
Thank you guys. I indeed just pulled the airbox and it was accessible without unreasonable difficulty (not easy, but not as insane as my Acura which requires lifting the exhaust manifold!).
Funny thing, I had a replacement on hand, I had ordered a Stant. I pulled the OE one and compared and no way I was replacing it with the cheap junk I (unwittingly) bought. So ES300NZ, if you are doing yours have a good OE (Nippon)Denso or something one on hand as many of the replacement/generic ones are not nearly as good quality. The OE pieces on this (220k miles/2002MY) was still in better shape and better materials than the replacement. I put the OE one back in.
I was worried about it as this vehicle had the wrong coolant in it for several years, so I did a few (2) system drains and ran it with dH2O a little while to thoroughly flush it. Since I was doing the timing belt I figured I would visualize as much of the system as I could to make sure there was no sediment/precipitate/etc.
The video posted by ES300NZ is the first result from that Google search I posted.
Hey guys, thanks for posting my thermostat video, I hope it helped you all. I didn't even know my video ranked that high on Google...
Originally Posted by Oro
Very helpful. I used that guy's vid on the T-belt. Except for the crank bolt advice and vague crank alignment pics, it was the best out there. However in that vid, his car has a very different breather apparatus and battery location vs. a 2002+ ES. I was wondering what to do w/regard to that, and if I take the battery out, do I lose any codes on the radio or anything like that. So it is still vague on my application but it gets me close.Thank you very much, and if I can find that guy I'll paypal him a Jackson in thanks for the t-belt video I used yesterday.
Lesson learned - do not attempt the t-belt unless you have an acetylene torch. I tried every method short of that (bumping, impact hammer, air-driven impact wrench at 100psi). Nothing worked until we fired it and let it cool.
I assume you're referring to this timing belt video?
If so, thanks, I'm glad you benefited from the timing belt video. Can you clarify what I missed on explaining the crank bolt and alignment?
I must admit I cheated a bit and used the bump start method to break the crank bolt loose the week before on this car... so it was easy to take it off with my 1/2" drive impact @ 120 PSI (as you saw in the video).
As you may have noticed, your newer generation ES as a slightly different timing belt tensioner I believe (correct me if I'm wrong), but there are two bolts that go in sideways into the engine instead of up right like in the video.
Originally Posted by Oro
Thank you guys. I indeed just pulled the airbox and it was accessible without unreasonable difficulty (not easy, but not as insane as my Acura which requires lifting the exhaust manifold!).
The airbox design was changed with the 2002 redesign of the Camry and Lexus ES, with the introduction of the drive-by-wire throttle. The car in the video is my 1999 Toyota Solara with the 1MZ-FE engine.
As you've probably figured out, the air-box isn't difficult to take apart to gain access to the thermostat area. Your right, if your going to replace the thermostat and draining all the coolant, you might as well put in an OEM one that will last the rest of the life of the vehicle.
Did you drain the engine block from the front and back drain ports? That should have gotten most of the coolant out, with the exception of what was left in the heater core and hoses.
First, I did not mean to imply your t-belt video was wrong. It was only "vague" in the sense the shot you did of the alignment marks on the crank pully was over-exposed. The side light used or the camera was too bright and you could not clearly see that "tit' at 11:30 on the cast camshaft pulley/harmonic balance ring clearly, and it also over exposed the punch mark on the camshaft/balancer you lined up against it. It was a small thing and easily double-checked against other references/pics. Overall, it was by far the most useful resource or guide I found after searching A LOT of them. This was only the 2nd timing belt I had done myself so I was being very careful.
I had a 100psi air system handy and a 1/4" air impact ratchet, and also a 3/8" and also 1/2" drive angle wrench. I also had manual 3/8 and 1/2" impact hammers. All useless on this crank. If I tried to bump it w/a torque on the crankbolt, it just bogged the engine and stalled. No joy. I only got it off after heating it with acetylene and letting it cool. Then it was easy-peasy. I tried many methods but it took that to break it loose. Since the last t-belt change, this car has been in mild Seattle weather doing interstate miles. No clear reason for this problem other than "it happens."
It was easy to access the t-stat w/o taking out the battery. I also did notice the tensioner was different. Amusingly, the 2002+ models use an OLDER style tensioner; that is the identical tensioner on my 1998 Acura SLX. FYI, they fail. They will not last through two t-belt service intervals. Ask me how I know.
The pre-2002 tensioner is a smarter design as you do not have to break loose the PS pump to install it. Can't why seeing reverting to this older, less reliable design was wise. Unless it shaved a few bucks. Not smart.
I need some advice on this timing belt change. Now that it is zipped up, I am having some increasing valve noise from the rear cylinder bank (1-3-5).
We triple checked the belt alignment before starting it. I painted marks on the old belt before removal, lined it up to the new belt and made sure they were in agreement/not a tooth or two off.
At first it was not loud but I could hear it and I pointed it out to my dad, he shrugged it off as "lifters pumping up." I didn't buy it but couldn't fight about it. The car runs fine, and I drove it a few miles, it runs beautifully and does not throw any codes.
We opened it back up and turned over the crank to the alignment mark and it all seems to agree, I'm posting the pics below of the crank and front 2-4-6 bank; I can't get a picture of the rear with my cell phone, but it is aligned same as the 2-4-6 bank when viewed head on and w/a mirror and flashlight. You could argue it looks 1/8 or 1/4 of a tooth gap off, but certainly not a whole one. I have the crank correct, right? The white dot agrees with the cast notch/tip on the oil pump housing flange, and my other white dot is about 3/3:30 o'clock where I lined up my belt mark when I installed it. The keyway is a few degrees back from that upper mark crank/TDC mark on the flange. I lined it up per the photo on this page, about 1/2 way down:
I am stumped. I have considered it could be a sensor left disconnected that is not advancing, but I can find nothing disconnected.
The only hiccups were two:
a) when aligning cams, my dad had the homemade tool on the rear bank (the one I get the noise from), and it slipped off the lobes and 10 to 15 degrees forward (into the "V"). He rotated it backwards to align it - I said I didn't think you were supposed to go that direction but he insisted it could make no difference, and I could not argue w/him. I am unsure if this could be the cause and if it had something to do w/the VVT.
b) We had to rebuild the alternator - bad bearing up front. When installing it, he shorted the lead and blew the 120A fusible link for the alternator. We had to pull the whole fusebox out to replace it, but I can find no other issue and can not think of one that could cause a mechanical noise like this.
Other thing I did was once it was all buttoned up, I ran 1/2 a can of SeaFoam through it via a vacuum hose I disconnected from the upper airbox. I have done this many times on vehicles and nothing seemed amiss about it. I heard the noise (much quieter) when we 1st started it though, and prior to this.
Currently I have the front valve cover off to visualize the system to try to figure it out, so I can't start it to record the noise, but I can zip the front back up and do that - it's just so hard to get the rear one off. I pulled the airbox out again and looked around the VVT pick-up leads to make sure one did not get left disconnected, etc.
I'm really stumped because the car runs great, but it has this loud valve noise now.
Crank marks (white paint on flange mark and on dot punched in crank):
Front Bank mark (White paint on pulley mark, gold highlighting reference mark):
08-15-14, 06:53 PM
Thermostat replacement 2002 ES300
