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Moog Problem Makers

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Old 04-30-14, 11:03 PM
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Hayk
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Default Moog Problem Makers

I feel like I need to get this information out there to help any future Stabilizer Link shoppers. I've had the experience of owning a set of 'Moog Problem Solver' Stabilizer Links on my car. I've had them for a little over a year, and this is what I've noticed.

1. They were already slightly corroded out of the box, so I decided to paint them before putting them on the car. This became my bad first impression, although I have to say that this is a very common problem with a lot of aftermarket parts.

2. Even though these links have a 14mm nut welded onto the threaded shaft, to help during R&R, one of them still managed to seize up on me. I tried soaking it in PB Blaster, using an electric impact, and clamping the nut with my vise grips, which only resulted in damaged tools. I ended up cutting the nut to get it off. Luckily, only one out of four corners on the car experienced this issue.

3. After replacing my struts, a clunk in my Driver Left strut, and multiple trips to the mechanic, it has been determined that the sound was coming from one of the ball sockets. Apparently the removal process somehow damaged the joint of the link, so now I need to replace it.

I have replaced the cut off link with a Moog Problem Solver, but I'm considering going with Deeza links for the broken socket situation. The only thing I liked about Moog was the welded nut, but it seems like even that does not help removal.

Just to note: All links were greased up, so the failure did not happen due to a lack of lubrication.


p.s.: Should have listened to Lexus 2000, back when I was looking for these parts in 2011.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es3...-endlinks.html

Last edited by Hayk; 04-30-14 at 11:14 PM.
Old 05-01-14, 09:34 AM
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I will be going through RockAuto to get a warranty replacement for the broken socket.
Old 04-14-15, 07:53 PM
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Replacing another link in the Rear Right under warranty. Developed a clunking sound.
Old 04-14-15, 08:23 PM
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LeX2K
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Moog at one time made some really good stuff but that hasn't been the case in 10+ years, at least most of the parts I've seen. There are exceptions I've seen some Moog ball joints that were nice, at least they looked high quality.
Old 04-15-15, 12:54 AM
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artbuc
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Originally Posted by Lexus2000
Moog at one time made some really good stuff but that hasn't been the case in 10+ years, at least most of the parts I've seen. There are exceptions I've seen some Moog ball joints that were nice, at least they looked high quality.
I read many DIY auto forums and the general consensus is that Moog quality is in the toilet. Their Problem Solver line is better than the rest of their junk but even they are getting sketchy. Quite a shame. When I was a kid, Moog was absolutely top shelf.
Old 04-15-15, 08:21 AM
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RXGS
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Not to sound stupid, but if MOOGs overall quality is questionable, what quality aftermarket suspension companies are there left? Most brands on rock auto like dorman and mevotech I've heard about quality issues from them as well.
Old 04-15-15, 08:38 AM
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FEQ makes a decent control arm, their axles are good as well. Sankei 555 is the same as OEM I buy those when ever possible. Otherwise just buy OES/OEM find an online dealer to save money, buying cheap aftermarket is false value you will pay more in the end. I swear some people are allergic to genuine parts and never look for them outside of walking into to the local dealer. Search Ebay as well I've found factory parts substantially cheaper even with shipping.
Old 04-15-15, 09:41 AM
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artbuc
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Originally Posted by 02SDGS
Not to sound stupid, but if MOOGs overall quality is questionable, what quality aftermarket suspension companies are there left? Most brands on rock auto like dorman and mevotech I've heard about quality issues from them as well.
With all of the mergers, acquisitions, re-boxing and outsourcing, buying aftermarket parts is a total crapshoot, plain and simple.
Old 04-15-15, 08:08 PM
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Hayk
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Originally Posted by Lexus2000
FEQ makes a decent control arm, their axles are good as well. Sankei 555 is the same as OEM I buy those when ever possible. Otherwise just buy OES/OEM find an online dealer to save money, buying cheap aftermarket is false value you will pay more in the end. I swear some people are allergic to genuine parts and never look for them outside of walking into to the local dealer. Search Ebay as well I've found factory parts substantially cheaper even with shipping.
Buying OEM is definitely the way to go. I learned that through experience (not just these links).
Old 04-16-15, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MrBooby
Buying OEM is definitely the way to go. I learned that through experience (not just these links).
I learned this a looooonng time ago.

Swaybar endlinks is not something I would even consider buying aftermarket.
Old 11-25-15, 06:27 PM
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Just as an update for anyone replacing a stabilizer linkage, I installed a Mevotech brand link in my ES330 over the weekend.

The part seems decently beefier than the OEM one I cut off. Its greasable so I have to make sure to keep it lubricated. It also has a nut welded on the shaft for easier removal (compared to the allen key that strips out on the OEM one.

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Here's a video on how it was done:

Old 11-26-15, 12:32 AM
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I see Mevotech often as an option often. No experience yet. Super nice to see real feedback. Thank you.
Old 11-26-15, 10:33 AM
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Nice heavy duty looking part hope it holds up, greasable is a red flag to me why is that needed? I've seen originals last 25 years the grease and boot were still fine. BTW the Toyota genuine links I put on my ES are rusting really badly the originals were not like that at all, worn but not rusting like crazy. A corner was cut somewhere.

Toyota used to make end links out of vinyl they were awesome (the ball portion still metal of course) no rusting and they were super rigid. Nice video BTW.
Old 11-27-15, 05:23 AM
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moog stuff works excellent on my mitsubishi, but i've also had the same bad luck as you on my 95 es300, and after researching, the moog quick struts aren't good either :/ for the 3ES
Old 11-28-15, 11:41 PM
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Hayk
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I believe my problems came from using an Impact Wrench while installing the links. I believe that using an electric impact gun to tighten the nut pulls the ball socket out of position and results in premature wear/tear on the links.

I think this is why the clunking sounds only came after I removed and reinstalled the links, because when they were new I didn't use an electric wrench to install them.

At the moment, there are no clunks from the links and I stopped messing around with my suspension this past Spring.
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