crwys

You are over thinking it. There isn't any "sense" to be made of it.
It simply shows the time, gps speed, speed reported by the cars computer, coolant temp and rpms.
At line 86 it shows me going 43 at 2700 rpms, (where it should have shifted into overdrive)
At line 159 the rpms finally drop from 2900 to 2300, showing it went into overdrive
If you check the time at both these lines you will see it took 1 minute and 13 seconds for my car to finally shift into over drive. (03:33.7 to 04:46.7)
Scroll on down to line 275, mph comes to 0 (at a stop sign)
Rpms go up then back down into overdrive (going onto the highway)
Keep on scrolling, car continues to stay in overdrive until line 765 where i get off then back on the highway, and its running in limp mode again.

I can record whatever data you want if you are interested as long as my cars computer supports it of course.

jayclapp

If you can't make any sense out of the data, then why bother with it? Merely a waste of time.

Mythotical

Can you log fuel trim, Just curious but perhaps a slow oxygen sensor is causing excessive fuel trim difference between bank one and two. Without the ability to adjust ignition timing between bank one and bank two independently, you may have a lean condition on one bank causing an actual knock to develop under load. Most of the time a code will represent an abnormal condition, not necessarily a bad sensor.

crwys

You would be surprised how curious people are about thousands of different things and factors to ones situation. It may be a waste of time to you, but its not for others, including me.

I believe I can, I will get back to you soon.
It would make sense because others have stated in this thread that the knock sensor should have not been damaged. I have been getting the p0420 code off and on from time to time since I have owned the car.

Mythotical

BINGO! If you could log fuel trim and all three 02 sensor voltages I bet we will find a slow 02 sensor. Torque will also do graphing! this will help greatly in finding a slow 02 sensor because graphing will show how the voltage will flip flop from .1 to .9 several times a second on a good 02 sensor, not so much on a bad one.

crwys

Ok I attached a few csv files logging fuel trim bank 1 and bank 2, all 3 02 sensors, and the basic mph, rpms, etc. The highway to town driving i think would be the most useful (if at all) because my car shifts into overdrive, then i stop and its in limp mode again.
I also uploaded graphs of the fuel trims and 02 sensors. Not sure if they were done correctly though, you may have to instruct me on how to record them. I was in park and idle'd at 2500 rpm when graphing the sensors. If they should be done a different way, let me know, and I can do it.
Thank you!

I cleared the code, it came back on. p0330 is still the only code though.

Mythotical

It looks like bank two is really leaned out by fuel trim during warm up. Your O2 sensors seem to be acting ok for switching speed but I think there may be a problem in the heating circuit for bank 2 sensor 1. I would check the resistance in the heating circuit for bank 1 and 2 and note any difference. If you find the resistance in bank two to be higher, I would change them both. Another thing is the condition of the ignition system, when was your last tune up and did you use NGK or DENSO and hopefully not BOSCH. If tuned up reasonably (within 40-50k) I would say that the P0440 could be due to the bank 2 sensor having a weak heater, rare because they usually just die. If the heater is bad this would explain the radical fuel trim in bank 2 and going into limp mode. If the heating circuit resistance is the same for them both, I would start looking at the wiring harness too them.

Let us know what you find... and good luck.

crwys

Thanks again for helping me with this.
I am not sure where the heating circuit is or how to even test it.
My last tune up was about 10k miles ago, I used DENSO. I checked the front 3 spark plugs and noticed the ends are all black, the diesel ruined them. Guess i'll have to buy new ones, my car isn't misfiring or having any problems though. Should I replace my ignition coils too, could the diesel ruin those as well?
On a greater note p0330 is still poping up but my car is starting to go into overdrive again even with the code on.
Usually when I clear the code on the highway, it still won't go into overdrive.
However tonight when I cleared the code on the highway, it instantly went into overdrive right after I cleared the code.
It seems the problem is working it self out and hopefully the spark plugs will be the only thing I have to replace. I haven't gotten any other codes still besides the p0330.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

The heater circuit is inside each O2 sensor, so you would need a multimeter to check the resistance of each sensor. The sensor will have multiple wires, I believe four. Two of them will be for the heater.

Mythotical

The blackness on the plugs is called coke or ash. It is only slightly conductive, but may cause a random misfire in the future. However having a little on the oxygen sensors would explain a lot. A quick and cheep thing to do before you change parts is to try steaming the engine. You can have a mechanic or you can do this carefully and only while the engine is hot by using a 1/16" vacuum reducer on a manifold vacuum line and feeding water into it while holding the throttle open to about 2,500 RPM. Doing this will literally polish your pistons, plugs, O2 sensors and most of your exhaust. Then go for a short 2 to 3 mile spirited drive to remove any residual water in the plenum. Don't get a ticket!

The slow heater circuit may just be caused be coke on the O2 sensor(s). Steaming will clean this, and I bet it works. Hopefully this will help, even if it dose not clear up your codes, it will greatly help things. Let us know...

crwys

I'm not comfortable with the whole steaming thing, thanks for the advice though. I'm just going to start replacing parts.

I changed my front 3 spark plugs and ignition coils (2, 4, 6).
Car seemed to stay in overdrive longer but eventually check engine light came on.
Doing back 3 spark plugs tomorrow.
Will this part work for both sensors bank 2 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 2?


Hopefully after replacing all these parts the problem will be fixed.

Edit:
Maybe it is my knock sensor? I don't see why I am not getting any other codes. Just the knock sensor code.
Replaced the 02 sensor bank 2 sensor 1. Car would not go into over drive at all.
Cleared the code, came back on really fast... like in 3 to 4 miles. I guess I'll replace the next sensor.
Uploaded the log if anyone can see anything wrong with it.

crwys

Maybe not. Stopped at a gas station, put 2.5gallons in, car started going into od. Cleared the code, drove for a long time going in and out of o/d. No problems yet. You are an amazing person *Mythotical

Mythotical

That data looks a lot better. Still a little lean in bank 2 but not nearly as bad as before, a .2 average difference is not bad. Get those other plugs and the other O2 sensor changed and I think you'll be in great shape with perfect fuel trim. Bank one sensor one and bank two sensor one are the same if you have a federal emissions car, if it's a California car they are not the same but the only difference is the length of the wire. It looks like you got the oxygen/AFR sensor for bank one sensor one for a California emissions car so you may need the one with the longer wire for bank two. There is no bank two sensor two but there is a bank one sensor two which is the one down passed the Catalytic converter, that one is different.