View Poll Results: Where is your needle on your temp gauge?
above the half way mark
18
10.98%
exactly at the half way mark
76
46.34%
a little less than half
66
40.24%
one quarter
4
2.44%
Voters: 164. You may not vote on this poll
Where is your temp gauge needle?
11-15-03, 03:02 AM
#16
Lead Lap
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Alabama
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1 notch below half way. Before & after the radiator blew up. Same with both radiators, same while I was driving and it blew a hole in it. Lowers slightly when you get aorund 100-105 and the tranny chanes to the last ratio. Go figure.
FYI lexusk8,
This one went 10 years on the original fluid before it blew the radiator.
I suggest flushing it completely. Took a 1/2 hour to replace this radiator, but it took 3 1/2-4 hours to flush the engine block out...
FYI lexusk8,
This one went 10 years on the original fluid before it blew the radiator.
I suggest flushing it completely. Took a 1/2 hour to replace this radiator, but it took 3 1/2-4 hours to flush the engine block out...
Last edited by Toysrme; 11-15-03 at 03:04 AM.
11-15-03, 11:38 AM
#17
Doug,
when in doubt, flush it out!!
I just had my 30k mile service and they flushed the Toyo Long Life coolant and replaced with new. I told them I thought it was 60k miles or 5 years on the long life stuff and asked why it needed to be done:
their responce was that long life coolants are falling short of the expectations and they feel it is safer to flush it at 30k or 2 years to be safe. It costs less to replace this than a new radiator. i guess one could argue in court that the coolant said 5 years and the warranty said 4 years. So if the coolant caused the radiator to blow at 50k miles it would be a good court case.
In another post, their was talk of some new super long life coolant that Lexus is putting in the 2004 models. It supposedly has an expected life up to 100k miles.
I'm a traditionalist. I'm changing it every 2 years or 30k miles regarless.
Doug, if you buy a car new then you start from scratch with all fluids. If you buy used and don't have exact figures on when fluids were last changed, then it is always a good idea to change them out, so you know it is clean and when it was done.
If you do it now, then you can omit that from the 90k service and save some money then. If you wait, which will probably be ok, then you just have to pay for it at the service. Also, if you are intending to replace the water pump at 90k then you might as well wait to do the flush until then. If you flush now, they will just have to drain your newly replaced coolant to do the water pump. Give it some thought.
Also, on your 90k service, seriously look at having it done at a Toyota dealership. Its the same engine as the Camry, so they know what to do. I have recently had a go round with Lexus Customer Service/Satisfaction about the high cost of their scheduled services. I informed them that everything that I had done could have been done at a Toyota service center for half of the $500 Lexus charged me. All parts, fluids, and time would have been the same. Lexus is outrageous in prices for scheduled services.
For a coolant fluid flush, it is no different for the Camry as it is for the ES. Shop around for the best price.
steviej
when in doubt, flush it out!!
I just had my 30k mile service and they flushed the Toyo Long Life coolant and replaced with new. I told them I thought it was 60k miles or 5 years on the long life stuff and asked why it needed to be done:
their responce was that long life coolants are falling short of the expectations and they feel it is safer to flush it at 30k or 2 years to be safe. It costs less to replace this than a new radiator. i guess one could argue in court that the coolant said 5 years and the warranty said 4 years. So if the coolant caused the radiator to blow at 50k miles it would be a good court case.
In another post, their was talk of some new super long life coolant that Lexus is putting in the 2004 models. It supposedly has an expected life up to 100k miles.
I'm a traditionalist. I'm changing it every 2 years or 30k miles regarless.
Doug, if you buy a car new then you start from scratch with all fluids. If you buy used and don't have exact figures on when fluids were last changed, then it is always a good idea to change them out, so you know it is clean and when it was done.
If you do it now, then you can omit that from the 90k service and save some money then. If you wait, which will probably be ok, then you just have to pay for it at the service. Also, if you are intending to replace the water pump at 90k then you might as well wait to do the flush until then. If you flush now, they will just have to drain your newly replaced coolant to do the water pump. Give it some thought.
Also, on your 90k service, seriously look at having it done at a Toyota dealership. Its the same engine as the Camry, so they know what to do. I have recently had a go round with Lexus Customer Service/Satisfaction about the high cost of their scheduled services. I informed them that everything that I had done could have been done at a Toyota service center for half of the $500 Lexus charged me. All parts, fluids, and time would have been the same. Lexus is outrageous in prices for scheduled services.
For a coolant fluid flush, it is no different for the Camry as it is for the ES. Shop around for the best price.
steviej
Last edited by steviej; 11-15-03 at 11:42 AM.
11-15-03, 08:08 PM
#18
Lexus Fanatic
Once again Steve, you come though with the generous Lexus service advice 
On the one hand, I would like to have the coolant flush done before the winter starts (makes sense, don't it?)
On the other hand, you mentioned that a coolant flush is done when the water pump gets replaced at the 90K. I did not know that particular step has to be performed from the water pump. If that's the case, I guess it makes no sense to have the coolant flush done TWICE (once before the 90K, and once at the 90K). I hope I'm seeing this right 
For peace of mind, I might just plan to take the ES to the dealership for a diagnostic check-up of the cooling system. The Toyota dealership here charges $85 for a cooling system check-up. I hope Lexus doesn't cost that much for the same thing...
On the one hand, I would like to have the coolant flush done before the winter starts (makes sense, don't it?)
On the other hand, you mentioned that a coolant flush is done when the water pump gets replaced at the 90K. I did not know that particular step has to be performed from the water pump. If that's the case, I guess it makes no sense to have the coolant flush done TWICE (once before the 90K, and once at the 90K). I hope I'm seeing this right For peace of mind, I might just plan to take the ES to the dealership for a diagnostic check-up of the cooling system. The Toyota dealership here charges $85 for a cooling system check-up. I hope Lexus doesn't cost that much for the same thing...
11-16-03, 09:25 PM
#19
they may not flush the coolant system when the water pump is replaced but they will most definately have to drain most of the fluid to get it lower than the level of the water pump. This way, when they remove the water pump, they don't get a flood. The system will be refilled of course and most like with new premix coolant which you will pay for again.
If you systems checks (coolant is acceptable and the pressure test passes) I would say let it ride for 10k more and do it on the 90k.
Start saving the pennies now.
steviej
If you systems checks (coolant is acceptable and the pressure test passes) I would say let it ride for 10k more and do it on the 90k.
Start saving the pennies now.
steviej
11-17-03, 04:28 PM
#20
Lexus Fanatic
Talked to a service consultant at the Greenwich Lexus dealership today about my story with the engine temp gauge and the coolant. He said that as long as there is no fluctuation with the gauge, and no coolant leaks from under the car, I shouldn't have to worry about changing the coolant (at least until the 90K). FYI, the water pump assembly (including the belt tensioner and idle pulley) is normally replaced in addition to the timing belt at the 90K service.
Steve is right; I gotta start saving my pennies. After 12K miles from now, I can't believe this will be my 2nd 90K service done up on both my ES's!
Steve is right; I gotta start saving my pennies. After 12K miles from now, I can't believe this will be my 2nd 90K service done up on both my ES's!
01-23-04, 01:56 PM
#21
Lexus Fanatic
Temp needle mark
The majority of aToyota/Lexus products, including my IS300, run with the needle just below halfway...about half a notch.....at normal temperature.
Keep in mind that, during warmup, if you use the heater and fan on their higher settings, the temp needle rise will be delayed somewhat and take longer to reach the normal halfway setting. This is beacuse when you turn on the heater...or use it for defrost and other functions.....you actually take heat out of the engine via anti-freeze and transfer it to the heater core inside. Therefore the engine runs a little cooler at the expense of the car's interior.
That is why turning on the heater when the engine overheats or runs hot will often bring the needle down a little....at the expense of roasting you, of course.
Keep in mind that, during warmup, if you use the heater and fan on their higher settings, the temp needle rise will be delayed somewhat and take longer to reach the normal halfway setting. This is beacuse when you turn on the heater...or use it for defrost and other functions.....you actually take heat out of the engine via anti-freeze and transfer it to the heater core inside. Therefore the engine runs a little cooler at the expense of the car's interior.
That is why turning on the heater when the engine overheats or runs hot will often bring the needle down a little....at the expense of roasting you, of course.
01-28-04, 06:42 AM
#22
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Massachusetts
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My gauge is over half way...
In December, I did a coolant flush on my 92 with 133,000...Well come to find out, the dealer used +10 degree coolant and the engine over heated destroying the radiator...The shop did the right thing and covered the entire $525 for a new radiator, thermostat, coolant etc. etc.
My question is, with everything replaced, the needle is still above half way, is this a problem?
When I first got the car, it was under half way and it has slowly climbed up to just a bit over halfway even with a new thermostat and radiator...
Anything to be alarmed about here?
My question is, with everything replaced, the needle is still above half way, is this a problem?
When I first got the car, it was under half way and it has slowly climbed up to just a bit over halfway even with a new thermostat and radiator...
Anything to be alarmed about here?
01-29-04, 07:36 PM
#23
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2002
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is this bad...cause my ES temp needle is alwayz at the bottom when i start the car up in the cold weather,and the it graudally increase back to the middle after i drive for maybe 3 or 5min.
01-29-04, 08:54 PM
#24
it'll be like that with all es' or toyotas because thats just the engine warming up. no need to worry at all. I'm sure you were wondering because on most other cars that are not toyota's or toyota related the temp needle shoots to 1/3 like right away and I wondered the same thing myself when i first got my car. But don't worry it's just the engine warming up.
07-04-09, 08:04 AM
#27
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sorry to bump this old thread but its what i've been searching for.
i just bought a 94 es300 about a year ago. at first the temp gauge was steady at the middle mark or a little lower. now the temp gauge is a little above the middle mark.
i figure its time for a coolant change but was wondering what else might i go ahead and do also? thanks.
i just bought a 94 es300 about a year ago. at first the temp gauge was steady at the middle mark or a little lower. now the temp gauge is a little above the middle mark.
i figure its time for a coolant change but was wondering what else might i go ahead and do also? thanks.
07-04-09, 08:29 AM
#29
Lexucanafer
<cough cough> just clearing my throat from the dust from this old thread...
Could be time for a coolant change. Also check your thermostat and rad cap to make sure they are functioning properly.
My temp gauge does what I've never noticed on any other car I've driven. When the car first warms up from cold, the needle gradually climbs as you would expect but it doesn't stop in the middle. It goes to just above the middle mark for approximately 15 minutes. Then it settles at just below the middle mark and remains there, even when the engine is under considerable load. So, I guess everything is ok. I just don't know why it always goes just above half way for the first 15 minutes and then drops. Anyone else experience this?
Could be time for a coolant change. Also check your thermostat and rad cap to make sure they are functioning properly.
My temp gauge does what I've never noticed on any other car I've driven. When the car first warms up from cold, the needle gradually climbs as you would expect but it doesn't stop in the middle. It goes to just above the middle mark for approximately 15 minutes. Then it settles at just below the middle mark and remains there, even when the engine is under considerable load. So, I guess everything is ok. I just don't know why it always goes just above half way for the first 15 minutes and then drops. Anyone else experience this?
