DRACO A5OG

Well Fellas,

I got sick and tired of my wife's horrible alignment, so I decide to just DIY, since every shop I sent it to gave me **** poor excuses and why they can't align it, but they still took my money, well no more.

So I got a Camber Kit on ebay for $16 for all four corners, but I just need the driver side front due to a T bone she was in that was the biggest culprit.

Popped it in, got the Camber I wanted to match the passenger side and on to the alignment:

I track my 911, so I prep it when I have an event so I used the same string method and wouldn't you know it, she drives perfectly straight, no drift, even the slightest or even on crowned roads,

Tools:

1. Jack Stands
2. Contractor's String, the PINK one you can find at Home Depot, cut to length of car and make loop ends.
3. Level Ground ( Very Important ) Garage will do
4. 17MM for the Jam Nut and 14MM for adjustment (FRONT)
5. 21MM for Jam Nut and Adjustment ( Rear )
6. Penetrating Lube if the MONKEY Mechanic over torqued the jam nuts, MF did on mine
7. Tape Measure Metric Preferably

It is best if the area is well lit so you can read the measurements.

So I checked Toyota Specs, confusing to say the least but I pulled out an old Just Tires and Sears read outs and I noticed the TOE IN for front and rear had a ridiculous range WTF? So back to Toyota Specs and they were basically close to 0.2MM +/-0.2MM, Wow that is basically zero plus a hair. I really doubted those specs would work. But what the heck.

I placed the two stands on one side at the bumpers and looped the strings on it and then raised the strings using the jack stands to the center of the wheel hub caps, made the string tight by pushing the stands apart.

Took the tape measure and measured both sides from the hub until they were both even at 1 inch or 25MM from center of hub cover, checked several times to make sure they were even.

Took the readings, OMFG! Those Stoopid Monkeys, TOE IN were Totally off almost 1/2 inch or 13MM, in the REAR and Toe Out on the Passenger Side and I don't know what on the driver side since I fixed the horrid 2.1 neg camber on the driver side, WTF???

Being careful not to disturb the jack stands, I proceeded to make my adjustments, Remember Jam Nut UP to loosen or check the threads to be certain, adjusted until I got ZERO TOE Front and Back, then I slighty turn in to get the 0.2MM TOE in for both sides or the hair I needed. Literally, on the dash mark then slightly to the side of the dash. Visually checked, it looked pretty damn square.

Repeated on the other side.

Test Drove, FUDGE! she had a pull so I rotated and revered crossed the wheels ( I think the months with that horrible camber may have damaged the tire, having to drive **** eyed all that time ) then Bingo, She tracked straight. I was a bit worried about turns but smooth as silk. With new KYB struts, she feels like the SPORT LUXURY she was designed to be.

Really Happy with the results

Jim

DRACO A5OG

Adjusting Camber with a kit was surprisingly easy. I wish my 911 was that easy. :-(

EEngineer

sounds like you did it the old school way! that's pretty awesome. some pictures would be really cool!

DRACO A5OG

Here you go, sorry not on the ES but on my 911, did not really think it would work so I did not take pics:



TOE CHECK AND DO, just two jack stands and string using a tape measure.



CAMBER CHECK, the smaller Harbor Freight tool is to measure at the HUB with wheels off while making adjustments to desired degree. The Husky tool is found at Home Depot and as well as the plastic nuts to take reading off of the rim not the tire ( critical ).

Old Skool? Yep, racing teams today still do this method. Total 15-20 minutes per side for TOE adjust, Camber adjust 20minutes, rotating tires took much longer

rlx101

pics dont show up here. looks like you used email attachment from google? use photobucket to upload and then copy the link to the image. www.photobucket.com

thanks for the write up!

DRACO A5OG

Yeah, my PB is full, thought I could use Goggle Drive, I guess not..

Your welcome! It trully was very easy as long as tire is not damaged like in my case, but by rotating and crossing them in the back, made a significant difference.

So for those wanting to go with a worthless shop and they can get it straight, have them rotate and swap.

Club Lexus Editor

Thanks! This seems like a great topic for How-To Tuesday...
https://www.clublexus.com/how-tos/a/...r-tires-362156