Engine shaking and white smoke from exhaust?!?!?!
04-05-13, 02:01 PM
#17
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Same thing had happened to our 1992 ES.
Same symptoms
1st time I fixed it I changed the ECU, it was good for about 6 months then it came back and I thought it was the ecu again but it turns out it was just bad spark plug wires.
I suggest checking your spark plug wires next.
Same symptoms
1st time I fixed it I changed the ECU, it was good for about 6 months then it came back and I thought it was the ecu again but it turns out it was just bad spark plug wires.
I suggest checking your spark plug wires next.
Last edited by ivanito; 04-06-13 at 03:25 AM.
04-06-13, 10:07 PM
#18
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Same thing had happened to our 1992 ES.
Same symptoms
1st time I fixed it I changed the ECU, it was good for about 6 months then it came back and I thought it was the ecu again but it turns out it was just bad spark plug wires.
I suggest checking your spark plug wires next.
Same symptoms
1st time I fixed it I changed the ECU, it was good for about 6 months then it came back and I thought it was the ecu again but it turns out it was just bad spark plug wires.
I suggest checking your spark plug wires next.
04-07-13, 06:08 AM
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I suspect you're getting water on 1 or more spark plugs which grounds the plug and there will be no fire in that cylinder. No fire means engine runs rough, unburned gasoline smell out exhaust. If the water dries up, the cylinder will function and the car will then run smooth (my car does this some)
The water could be from seepage around the head gasket when the engine gets cold. Mine will be noticeably worse when it's below freezing, but not so bad when overnight temps are in the 60's or 70's.
BTW, my car sat for a long time, years in fact. When I got it started finally, it blew lot's of white smoke for a long time, I thought the head gasket was toast. But it did dry out and became what i'd call 'normal' So don't give up on yours quite yet.
The water could be from seepage around the head gasket when the engine gets cold. Mine will be noticeably worse when it's below freezing, but not so bad when overnight temps are in the 60's or 70's.
BTW, my car sat for a long time, years in fact. When I got it started finally, it blew lot's of white smoke for a long time, I thought the head gasket was toast. But it did dry out and became what i'd call 'normal' So don't give up on yours quite yet.
04-21-13, 07:48 PM
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I suspect you're getting water on 1 or more spark plugs which grounds the plug and there will be no fire in that cylinder. No fire means engine runs rough, unburned gasoline smell out exhaust. If the water dries up, the cylinder will function and the car will then run smooth (my car does this some)
The water could be from seepage around the head gasket when the engine gets cold. Mine will be noticeably worse when it's below freezing, but not so bad when overnight temps are in the 60's or 70's.
BTW, my car sat for a long time, years in fact. When I got it started finally, it blew lot's of white smoke for a long time, I thought the head gasket was toast. But it did dry out and became what i'd call 'normal' So don't give up on yours quite yet.
The water could be from seepage around the head gasket when the engine gets cold. Mine will be noticeably worse when it's below freezing, but not so bad when overnight temps are in the 60's or 70's.
BTW, my car sat for a long time, years in fact. When I got it started finally, it blew lot's of white smoke for a long time, I thought the head gasket was toast. But it did dry out and became what i'd call 'normal' So don't give up on yours quite yet.
04-21-13, 09:28 PM
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should i go back and apply it?still havent had time to replace the fuel filter
04-21-13, 10:21 PM
#23
You really should do both the fuel filter, and dielectric grease! Pull the wire boot and place a pea sized dab of dielectric grease at the boot opening so that it will be deposited on the spark plug terminal when the boot is pushed on. All high energy ignitions should have the dielectric grease that you can purchase at most auto parts stores. It prevents water infiltration, and micro-arcing at the terminal. The exhaust should clear up within a couple weeks after you replace the fuel filter.
05-27-13, 12:27 AM
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how do i clean the IAC valve and MAF sensor? sorry hey its my first time working on a lexus
i replaced the fuel filter the old one was pretty dirty but unfortunately i have no improvement the exhaust still puts out a lot of white smoke and the fuel smells ridiculous
the fuel in the old filter was like black and had possibly water in there somethings really messed up
after the fuel filter renewal the car still shakes when idling... rpm drops at times between 500-700rpm... timing belt was replaced just 20 000kms ago... i want to have a crack at the IAC and MAF sensor now
06-02-13, 07:24 PM
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cleaned IAC valve and i still getting clouds of white smoke from exhaust bit of water drip upon start up exhaust fumes smell ridiculous... engine idles awkwardly rpm rise then drop
no coolant loss or decrease in level ???
no coolant loss or decrease in level ???
06-02-13, 09:42 PM
#27
I have a few possible theories, just something to troubleshoot.
1. Is the engine running poorly only at idle? Try raising the RPMs and holding them. What kind of symptoms do you get? Does the roughness get worse or does it smooth out?
I don't think there is an issue with your headgasket. I think it's either a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery issue.
2. A vacuum leak would cause a rough idle because the computer is not accounting for extra air that's being sucked in past the Air Flow sensor. The engine should run normally when you raise the RPMs, because the vacuum goes away when you open the throttle plate. I think a bad Air Flow Sensor or a bad IAC Valve could also be a contributor (not sure how to pinpoint which one is at fault). But I think if your problems go away at higher RPMs, then you can isolate the problem to too much or not enough air.
3. A fuel delivery issue could be a number of things. It could be a leaky/poor running fuel injector that's shooting too much gas at one time. You could check that by inspecting your spark plugs for abnormalities. You can also have a fuel tank that's full of stale gasoline. Gas has a shelf life of about a month, after that time your car won't run as smoothly.
4. Weak spark can also be a contributor. If you can't ignite the fuel, you will be shooting it out through the exhaust. There are testers out there that can indicate if the spark is strong enough. Since you replaced your wires and spark plugs, it could be coming from the ignition coils. Maybe one of them is bad and it's not igniting one of the cylinders, which is causing a poor running engine and dumping excess fuel into the exhaust.
5. I'm surprised you don't have a misfire code or a check engine light.
1. Is the engine running poorly only at idle? Try raising the RPMs and holding them. What kind of symptoms do you get? Does the roughness get worse or does it smooth out?
I don't think there is an issue with your headgasket. I think it's either a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery issue.
2. A vacuum leak would cause a rough idle because the computer is not accounting for extra air that's being sucked in past the Air Flow sensor. The engine should run normally when you raise the RPMs, because the vacuum goes away when you open the throttle plate. I think a bad Air Flow Sensor or a bad IAC Valve could also be a contributor (not sure how to pinpoint which one is at fault). But I think if your problems go away at higher RPMs, then you can isolate the problem to too much or not enough air.
3. A fuel delivery issue could be a number of things. It could be a leaky/poor running fuel injector that's shooting too much gas at one time. You could check that by inspecting your spark plugs for abnormalities. You can also have a fuel tank that's full of stale gasoline. Gas has a shelf life of about a month, after that time your car won't run as smoothly.
4. Weak spark can also be a contributor. If you can't ignite the fuel, you will be shooting it out through the exhaust. There are testers out there that can indicate if the spark is strong enough. Since you replaced your wires and spark plugs, it could be coming from the ignition coils. Maybe one of them is bad and it's not igniting one of the cylinders, which is causing a poor running engine and dumping excess fuel into the exhaust.
5. I'm surprised you don't have a misfire code or a check engine light.
Last edited by Hayk; 06-02-13 at 09:49 PM.
06-02-13, 09:52 PM
#28
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I have a few possible theories, just something to troubleshoot.
1. Is the engine running poorly only at idle? Try raising the RPMs and holding them. What kind of symptoms do you get? Does the roughness get worse or does it smooth out?
I don't think there is an issue with your headgasket. I think it's either a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery issue.
2. A vacuum leak would cause a rough idle because the computer is not accounting for extra air that's being sucked in past the Air Flow sensor. The engine should run normally when you raise the RPMs, because the vacuum goes away when you open the throttle plate.
3. A fuel delivery issue could be a number of things. It could be a leaky/poor running fuel injector that's shooting too much gas at one time. You could check that by inspecting your spark plugs for abnormalities. You can also have a fuel tank that's full of stale gasoline. Gas has a shelf life of about a month, after that time your car won't run as smoothly.
4. Weak spark can also be a contributor. If you can't ignite the fuel, you will be shooting it out through the exhaust. There are testers out there that can indicate if the spark is strong enough. Since you replaced your wires and spark plugs, it could be coming from the ignition coils. Maybe one of them is bad and it's not igniting one of the cylinders, which is causing a poor running engine and dumping excess fuel into the exhaust.
5. I'm surprised you don't have a misfire code or a check engine light.
1. Is the engine running poorly only at idle? Try raising the RPMs and holding them. What kind of symptoms do you get? Does the roughness get worse or does it smooth out?
I don't think there is an issue with your headgasket. I think it's either a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery issue.
2. A vacuum leak would cause a rough idle because the computer is not accounting for extra air that's being sucked in past the Air Flow sensor. The engine should run normally when you raise the RPMs, because the vacuum goes away when you open the throttle plate.
3. A fuel delivery issue could be a number of things. It could be a leaky/poor running fuel injector that's shooting too much gas at one time. You could check that by inspecting your spark plugs for abnormalities. You can also have a fuel tank that's full of stale gasoline. Gas has a shelf life of about a month, after that time your car won't run as smoothly.
4. Weak spark can also be a contributor. If you can't ignite the fuel, you will be shooting it out through the exhaust. There are testers out there that can indicate if the spark is strong enough. Since you replaced your wires and spark plugs, it could be coming from the ignition coils. Maybe one of them is bad and it's not igniting one of the cylinders, which is causing a poor running engine and dumping excess fuel into the exhaust.
5. I'm surprised you don't have a misfire code or a check engine light.
when doing the fuel filter i noticed that the fuel was very much like just water and smelt awful too so this could be the culprit
idle is rough and kind of goes away if given more pedal cloud of smoke gets worse though.. mainly when in park position i tried neutral, drive and reverse the smoke is reduces a little??
3. the fuel has been sitting in the car for the past 4 months so that could definitely be an issue like you said... is there anyway i can drain some of the fuel?
5. i bought the car for real cheap and it was said to have mechanical faults when i got it
i noticed the engine diagnostic terminals are covered in thick grease and this is how i got the car... perhaps this is why im not getting an error code or CEL?
jacked the car up too and noticed residue/oil just under the rear manifold from what looked to be like the head gasket? no oil drops on the driveway though just when i run my fingers along the seal there is a little oil ?
Last edited by lexy2013; 06-02-13 at 09:58 PM.
06-03-13, 11:36 AM
#29
Your best bet would be to drive it down to a local shop for a diagnosis. If you want to try using some fresh fuel, you can siphon the old gas out through the back seat. You will need to remove the bottom cushion and remove the access port to the gas tank. I know most gas tanks have a security system inside the filling neck, so that you can be protected against people stealing your gas.
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