The Car Dies After It Reaches Normal Operating Temp???
03-26-13, 10:21 AM
#1
The Car Dies After It Reaches Normal Operating Temp???
Per my previous post I recently bought a 92 ES300 5sp and I cannot wait to get her rolling. So much so that I stopped working on my SC400 5sp project. But anyways I have an issue with the oil pressure light and I bought an oil switch sensor and that solved that problem. Initially I thought my engine was bad so I found a good deal at JDM Engine Corp here in Dallas. I copped a 3vz fe for $299 plus tax. Regardless I am going to eventually install the new engine but what brought me to this purchase was that I can only drive my car 20 miles or so under normal operating temperature. As long as the engine is cold is runs top notch but as soon as I get to operating temp she begans to loose power, sputtering, knocking, etc. Eventually it will die and will not start. But if I leave alone for a few hours it cranks right back up and thus the viscious cycle starts over again. I know the 2jz and 1uz like the back of my hand but this engine and car is baffling me. So I am wondering if you guys can give me some help. I have already changed out the plugs and wires and to no avail the car still does the same thing. I am thinking that I may have a fuel pressure issue but before I spend another dime I want to find out what the issue is. It would be really bad if I installed a fresh engine and I still have the same problem.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
03-26-13, 04:22 PM
#4
First thing is to determine what you are losing. Pull any codes in the system as they may well point you to the responsible party. When it's warmed up and misbehaving you need to check for spark and, if good, check for fuel. Sounds like it could be a failing cam sensor but start with the above. Sounds like it will be a relatively cheap fix once you find it.
03-27-13, 05:38 AM
#5
First thing is to determine what you are losing. Pull any codes in the system as they may well point you to the responsible party. When it's warmed up and misbehaving you need to check for spark and, if good, check for fuel. Sounds like it could be a failing cam sensor but start with the above. Sounds like it will be a relatively cheap fix once you find it.
03-27-13, 07:32 AM
#6
Remove the fuel pump relay and EFI main relay. Pry the covers off and look at the contacts under the coil for deep pitting, and erosion. You might also check for restricted exhaust. Check the ignition coils which fail at around 100,000 miles.
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03-27-13, 08:49 AM
#8
If you have a digital multimeter you can check and post the resistance of the coils at a given temperature to see which is bad, but they recommend replacing all of them if one is failing. If you find one coil that is much different than the others, I would suspect it would be your issue. A back woods way to check might be to pull the coil packs when the engine is acting up, and put them in the refrigerator for say 15 minutes to quick cool, and reinstall. Coils often fail when hot. You can get coils at a better price at rockauto.com, but you pay for shipping as opposed to amazon.com with free super savor shipping. I bought one coil to swap into each position till I noticed an improvement with the engine and concluded that was the bad one.
Last edited by moonphase; 03-27-13 at 08:50 AM. Reason: more info.
03-27-13, 09:54 AM
#9
If you have a digital multimeter you can check and post the resistance of the coils at a given temperature to see which is bad, but they recommend replacing all of them if one is failing. If you find one coil that is much different than the others, I would suspect it would be your issue. A back woods way to check might be to pull the coil packs when the engine is acting up, and put them in the refrigerator for say 15 minutes to quick cool, and reinstall. Coils often fail when hot. You can get coils at a better price at rockauto.com, but you pay for shipping as opposed to amazon.com with free super savor shipping. I bought one coil to swap into each position till I noticed an improvement with the engine and concluded that was the bad one.
03-27-13, 09:57 AM
#10
Lexus Champion
You can also buy one of those Freeze sprays at an electronics, and some car parts store, than spray any suspect component while the car is acting up. The rapid cooling provided by that spray, will immediately identify any components that have become temperature sensitive.
Phil
Phil
03-27-13, 11:14 AM
#11
You can also buy one of those Freeze sprays at an electronics, and some car parts store, than spray any suspect component while the car is acting up. The rapid cooling provided by that spray, will immediately identify any components that have become temperature sensitive.
Phil
Phil
Thanks Phil
03-27-13, 08:14 PM
#12
You may have a bad injector. I had a similar problem with my 97. When the engine was cold it ran fine. Once warmed up I would get a misfire on #6. I checked the coil and it was good. Checked the injector with an ohm meter when the engine was hot and the injector was open. Replaced the injector and everything was good.
03-28-13, 05:20 AM
#13
You may have a bad injector. I had a similar problem with my 97. When the engine was cold it ran fine. Once warmed up I would get a misfire on #6. I checked the coil and it was good. Checked the injector with an ohm meter when the engine was hot and the injector was open. Replaced the injector and everything was good.
03-31-13, 08:11 AM
#14
Baffled
So before I installed any parts I decided to run the obd1 cel diagnosis check that I've seen on the forums. I have no cel currently, but the car gave me code 52 for knock sensor. I've read the knock sensors and harness is expensive, time for plan b, install the engine.........
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