My GF's mom's car starting issues
02-19-13, 09:59 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
My GF's mom's car starting issues
I have been digging around this forum reading all the starting issues so I have an idea but still wanted to run this by you.
First off the back story, we got my mom this 2001 ES300, it drove nice, didn't seem to have any issues. I couldn't speak to the seller though since he didn't speak English, so my GF had to translate back and forth which was a pain. Anyways we test drove it, even came back the next day and drove it again and everything seemed to check out. It did need new tires and a transmission flush. Anyways a day after that the passenger window started going up and down by itself, no biggy i will replace the master switch. So she drives the car to Tampa from Miami this weekend, after being there a night the car won't start. She says it just clicks over and over. They got a new battery same thing. Finally gets it to start by pressing gas on and off for like 5 minutes. So I have her take it to the Toy House mechanic in Tampa. This is what was relayed back to me
"Crank crank it wont start, step on gas and it stalls, after 5 min it runs good. There air induction hoses, sucking air may be the cause.
Coolant temp code – -40 degrees dumps a lot of fuel."
I know is random but that's all I know at this point
I do know it had a ECT Heat sensor code when they scanned it but not sure if that's even related. I will know more once the car is back here at my house but just trying to get a headstart. I noticed one member fix a starting issue with these http://www.startercontacts.com/
First off the back story, we got my mom this 2001 ES300, it drove nice, didn't seem to have any issues. I couldn't speak to the seller though since he didn't speak English, so my GF had to translate back and forth which was a pain. Anyways we test drove it, even came back the next day and drove it again and everything seemed to check out. It did need new tires and a transmission flush. Anyways a day after that the passenger window started going up and down by itself, no biggy i will replace the master switch. So she drives the car to Tampa from Miami this weekend, after being there a night the car won't start. She says it just clicks over and over. They got a new battery same thing. Finally gets it to start by pressing gas on and off for like 5 minutes. So I have her take it to the Toy House mechanic in Tampa. This is what was relayed back to me
"Crank crank it wont start, step on gas and it stalls, after 5 min it runs good. There air induction hoses, sucking air may be the cause.
Coolant temp code – -40 degrees dumps a lot of fuel."
I know is random but that's all I know at this point
I do know it had a ECT Heat sensor code when they scanned it but not sure if that's even related. I will know more once the car is back here at my house but just trying to get a headstart. I noticed one member fix a starting issue with these http://www.startercontacts.com/
02-19-13, 11:11 AM
#2
The mechanic might try these two tests from Haynes manual. If the coolant temperature gauge fails to show any indication after engine has been warmed up (approx. 10 minutes) and the fuses checked out OK, shut off the engine. Disconnect the wire at the sending unit and, using a jumper wire, connect the wire to a clean ground on the engine. Briefly turn on the ignition without starting the engine. If the gauge now indicates hot. replace the sending unit. If the gauge fails to respond, the circuit may be open or the gauge may be faulty.
The engine coolant temp sensor ECT is a different sending unit positioned slightly back from the coolant temp sensor on the V6. Disconnect the ECT electrical connector. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals on the sensor. It should be between 2,500 and 3,000 ohms at room temperature (68 degrees). Start the engine and monitor the resistance, or remove the sensor and warm it in a pan of water. the resistance should decrease to approximately 250 to 300 ohms at 180 degrees F. If the test results are incorrect, replace the ECT sensor.
The engine coolant temp sensor ECT is a different sending unit positioned slightly back from the coolant temp sensor on the V6. Disconnect the ECT electrical connector. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals on the sensor. It should be between 2,500 and 3,000 ohms at room temperature (68 degrees). Start the engine and monitor the resistance, or remove the sensor and warm it in a pan of water. the resistance should decrease to approximately 250 to 300 ohms at 180 degrees F. If the test results are incorrect, replace the ECT sensor.
Last edited by moonphase; 02-19-13 at 11:14 AM.
02-19-13, 11:24 AM
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
The mechanic might try these two tests from Haynes manual. If the coolant temperature gauge fails to show any indication after engine has been warmed up (approx. 10 minutes) and the fuses checked out OK, shut off the engine. Disconnect the wire at the sending unit and, using a jumper wire, connect the wire to a clean ground on the engine. Briefly turn on the ignition without starting the engine. If the gauge now indicates hot. replace the sending unit. If the gauge fails to respond, the circuit may be open or the gauge may be faulty.
The engine coolant temp sensor ECT is a different sending unit positioned slightly back from the coolant temp sensor on the V6. Disconnect the ECT electrical connector. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals on the sensor. It should be between 2,500 and 3,000 ohms at room temperature (68 degrees). Start the engine and monitor the resistance, or remove the sensor and warm it in a pan of water. the resistance should decrease to approximately 250 to 300 ohms at 180 degrees F. If the test results are incorrect, replace the ECT sensor.
The engine coolant temp sensor ECT is a different sending unit positioned slightly back from the coolant temp sensor on the V6. Disconnect the ECT electrical connector. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals on the sensor. It should be between 2,500 and 3,000 ohms at room temperature (68 degrees). Start the engine and monitor the resistance, or remove the sensor and warm it in a pan of water. the resistance should decrease to approximately 250 to 300 ohms at 180 degrees F. If the test results are incorrect, replace the ECT sensor.
Thanks for the info. I am ordering the sensor now to be on the safe side. The mechanic told me lots of sensors have been unplugged in the car and something was done so the check engine light wouldn't come on. Needless to say the guy who sold the car is very dishonest and knew exactly was he was doing by selling this car. My GF and her mom are so upset and even called the guy and he told them it's not his problem now, wtf ahole.
02-19-13, 12:14 PM
#4
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I know all private party cars are sold as is but I wonder if I get evidence from the two mechanics of how the car was rigged not to show issues and CEL lights etc if my gf's mom would have a chance in court.
02-19-13, 12:23 PM
#5
The ECT sensor is the one that the PCM computer uses for adjusting fuel trim. The coolant temperature sensor lets you know temp through the gauge. Personally I would test them before purchasing a new one.
You might take the car to your trusted mechanic for an overall inspection. Good Luck!
You might take the car to your trusted mechanic for an overall inspection. Good Luck!
02-19-13, 12:43 PM
#6
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
The ECT sensor is the one that the PCM computer uses for adjusting fuel trim. The coolant temperature sensor lets you know temp through the gauge. Personally I would test them before purchasing a new one.
You might take the car to your trusted mechanic for an overall inspection. Good Luck!
You might take the car to your trusted mechanic for an overall inspection. Good Luck!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ange-pics.html
And yea the 2 mechanics I have taken it to, one here in Fort Lauderdale and the other in Tampa have both been around for over 40 years and highly trusted. They are the ones who have given me all the details of what looks like the guy tried covering up with the car. I should have the car here tomorrow and will start testing the sensors, either way I am going to replace the coolant one because I do not trust anything the seller has told me now, including that the timing belt/water pump was done and that scares me.
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02-19-13, 05:30 PM
#8
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Man, what a douche bag the seller is.. You should collect evidence from the mechanics and take this guy to civil court. I'm sure you'd have a case considering tampering with a car could possibly be life threatening.
It's dishonest douche bags like this that make everyone so scared to deal with other people (private parties). People will say anything to get a couple extra bucks.
It's dishonest douche bags like this that make everyone so scared to deal with other people (private parties). People will say anything to get a couple extra bucks.
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