genolex

There are no codes coming up. The dash shift selector lights up all positions when selected except D which is drive with overdrive. Selections are L-2-3-4-D-N-R-P. When I have the shift selector in D the dash light says 4, it should say D? The rest are normal. The engine can not be started in positions other then N and P. Is there any way I can check out the park/neutral position switch in the car, if not were can I find a diagram of it when I take it out. Any other ideas on what I can do before I spend $200. on a new switch that might not fix it??
Thanks
genolex

JSM1284

It is more than likely the switch in the console that depicts whether the gear selector is in 4 or D, considering the difference in those positions dont change the position of the shift cable.

genolex

You nailed it. I looked for a switch and found a Y actuator with haft of it gone. The haft that pushed it back to D. Left the sw in D position, put back together and everything works great. Now I have time to get a sw.

Thanks Jsm1284 (the cane) you saved me a big headache and $$$$
Thanks again
lexgeno

Update

Went to Lexus to get a new sw and of coarse they only sell a complete new console for $330.00. I looked at the new console and I could see my sw was not broken. I cleaned and lubed the sw and actuater without removing it. The upper rear one. I dont think the sw comes off the console. That worked for only a month.
The spring loaded sw has 2 prongs coming out of it with a stationary divider in the center of it. The sw prong on the left side would catch under the stationary black divider when you would shift from D to 4 or L to 1. With nothing to loose I drilled a small hole and put a screw on the white plastic actuator. The actuator moves back and forth and the short screw keeps the left prong from going to far to the to the right.
The way they put this together is a manufacting blunder. I hope no one has to go through this but if you are as cheap as I am, it does work!

genolex

Solo2

I have the exact same issue. Though I didnt find your post before I took it apart. It's now back together temporarily. I need to look more closely at this stationary divider that you're referring to.

I manually moved the Y switch to the D position till I have a chance to look at it again.

Can you post a picture of your solution? The prong seems to go too far to the left, not the right as you indicated. So, I'm a bit confused.

genolex

The fix is still working great. I am reading my post now after almost 2 yrs and you you are right it is confusing. It must be stopping it from sticking under the left side not the right as I stated. I found a pic of it with the screw with red cement under it. I hope this helps. Let me know how you come out!I

Solo2

I came up with a solution that won't last too long, but long enough for me not to care. If I put downward pressure on the rear of the switch, it wouldn't hand up. But under its own weight, it "leans forward" and hangs up.

So, I used a zip tie and tied it around the black pin that is to the left of the left fork. Basically, it doesn't allow the switch to swing to the left and click in the "bad" position. I used the "knuckle" of the zip tie as a stop.

Problem with it as that at some point, the knuckle will rotate. And at some point, if I move it down to L or 2, the zip tie could get hung up and rotate and be useless. Even worse, it could jam the selector.

In the meantime, for the next 100K miles, i should be ok as I don't foresee an need to be in L or 2.