volvodude

Hi,

I have a 1998 ES300.

Apparently the reverse lightbulbs are out.

I notice a small wedge like cover in the inner side of the light assembly on the trunk lid that appears to open. I haven't opened it yet. It's dark out now so I will have to wait until tomorrow. Anyway, Looks like a small opening but I'm assuming it gives you access to the bulbs.

I can't find any videos on replacing the reverse bulbs. Any tips? I'm hoping it can be done without removing the light assembly.

Thank you.

Arsenii

Hello,

There is a small access port on each side of the trunk lid, which gives you a pretty easy access to the Reverse Bulbs.

Though it is a lot easier to understand when you see it then when it's written down..

Hope thus helps and best of luck!

volvodude

I noticed the access ports. Glad to hear they provide pretty easy access. As soon as I receive the bulbs I'll give it a whirl.

Both bulbs are out. I'm hoping there isn't a wiring issue. But they may have gone out separately and who knows how long ago. The lightbulb out indicator on the dash has been lit up for years even with all bulbs working. Possibly a mismatch. I've never looked into it.

Thank you!

LeX2K

Reverse lights are not part of the lamp failure warning in the cluster. Check the wires by the trunk hinge. Other causes are very old bulbs or the lamp failure box is bad.

volvodude

years ago when I replaced a bulb in one of the taillight assemblies I noticed one of the sockets was a little melted. The bulb was hard to remove and replace if I remember correctly. Yet all the bulbs worked. Not sure if someone had previously used the wrong bulb or what. Anyway, I'll check the wiring by the trunk hinge. Thank you for the tip!

volvodude

Are the reverse light bulbs the only bulbs located in the lens enclosure attached to the trunk lid?

Apparently the license plate light is out. And I previously noticed the trunk light is out. I'm starting to wonder if it is a wiring issue possibly along the trunk hinge. I will take a look once it stops raining and there's some good day light out. I don't currently have access to a garage.

volvodude

I found the issue. I unraveled the electrical tape from the wiring running below the left hinge and found four severed wires. Fun stuff. Now I'm wondering if it would be helpful to extend the wiring length when splicing them together to give them more free play to prevent them from breaking again in the future?

Arsenii

While I have never attempted it before, you can try replacing part of the factory wiring that is most susceptible to wear with Silicone wiring, which tends to have very fine strands on the inside, making those wires exceptionally flexible, basically like headphone wire, here is a link to one I stumbled across. Cut about 20cm of factory wiring on each side of the damage, maybe more, depending on the circumstances, then use Crimp Connectors with the wire mentioned above to complete the circuit, then route it back into the factory conduit.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

LeX2K

I find it best to get a piece of donor harness, even better if it's from the same loom that way you have matching colours. Splice in from a section that doesn't bend. Leave slightly more slack than factory. The "proper" way to repair this is replace all the wires or it probably won't be long until more break.

Silicone insulation doesn't hold up very well it cracks. Same thing happens with silicone vacuum lines they have a reputation of being better but they fail pretty quickly. Best Toyota wires are from the late 80's to about 2001 after that the insulation became inferior.

Arsenii

Hard to argue that the insulation on the wiring in newer Toyotas became a lot more rigid, and the wires themselves became smaller gauge, not too pleasing to work with. That said, I am not sure about Silicone isolation, unlike in the engine bay, there won't be any constant heat cycles and exposure to some pretty harsh chemicals, it's a trunk area after all. Considering how much finer the strands are, unless the insulation gives in, this wire will outlast the factory solution greatly.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

VanZ

I actually just bypassed my Light Failure Switch in my '92. It was causing problems with the halogens I had in, and would stay on now that I've converted to LEDs.

LeX2K

The problem I had with silicone wire is tape doesn't stick properly, over time the entire mass of tape moved as once piece smearing the adhesive around. And the tape started to fall off. I'm sticking with what I know is good, OEM wires.
I simply pulled the bulb out of the cluster.

VanZ

Mine was actually causing issues with rear runners cutting out when my indicators were on. I tracked down a faulty bulb (which was part of the problem) but jumping pins and getting rid of the LFS altogether seemed to solve the problem with working bulbs.

LeX2K

Depending on year there is a shunt wire or resistor both are prone to frying themselves or the traces they are soldered to. A problematic design for sure. Good thing is LEDs draw at least 50% less power I've noticed on my cars that are all LED that the alternator has to work way less.