What else should be considered during a VCG replacement?
10-09-19, 01:33 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
What else should be considered during a VCG replacement?
Getting VCGs replaced tomorrow on 2006 ES330 (3MZFE).
What other parts should be inspected/replaced during this repair job?
Also what are some easy-to-forget tools/steps for the VCG job itself?
What other parts should be inspected/replaced during this repair job?
Also what are some easy-to-forget tools/steps for the VCG job itself?
10-09-19, 01:52 PM
#2
Lexus Champion
Hard to say since you don't say your mileage or maintenance history
PCV valve/hose
spark plugs
cam seals (requires timing belt removal)
water bypass hose 16261-20010 (requires intake removal)
PCV valve/hose
spark plugs
cam seals (requires timing belt removal)
water bypass hose 16261-20010 (requires intake removal)
10-09-19, 02:09 PM
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
May 2019: Replaced water pump, timing belt, crank seal, front cam seal.
July 2018: 6 denso plugs installed, and 1 denso coil (rear).
Should I replace plugs again? I forgot to mention that I WILL be replacing 2 out of 3 rear COILS since one of the rear cylinders is misfiring.
Since I already replaced front cam seal should I just replace rear seal? Does rear seal also require timing belt removal?
Thank you!
10-09-19, 03:01 PM
#4
Lexus Champion
Why was only one cam seal replaced? To replace the rear seal the timing belt has to come off again. On plugs, mileage is the factor not time so I'm guessing you don't need to replace them again.
10-09-19, 03:22 PM
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
With respect to VCG, could you direct me to where I can find out exact spots to put sealant and the correct torque specs for the bolts?
Thx for your time.
10-09-19, 03:27 PM
#6
Lexus Champion
.......................
Last edited by LeX2K; 10-09-19 at 04:06 PM.
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10-09-19, 04:01 PM
#8
Lexus Champion
What is with some of you? Do you want someone to hold your hand and point out exactly what to do? If you tried even a little you'd find the info on page 63. Getting fed up with this place don't know how much longer I'm gonna post here.
Ask your mechanic next time.
Ask your mechanic next time.
10-09-19, 04:04 PM
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
Lol. Humble yourself smart guy.
10-09-19, 04:05 PM
#11
Lexus Champion
10-09-19, 07:09 PM
#12
Intermediate
Internet skills are appreciated and Lexus2000 is correct.
But back to your Valve Cover dilemma.... A simple search brought this up, so maybe it will help.
“Supply List:
Ultra Black RTV. RTV is *the* gasket "brand" of choice by everyone. Ultra Black is a premium line, and Permatex's most oil resistant RTV gasket. Even better. It is apply & go. (Non-premium RTV's need time to setup when mounted & some need to be re-torqued.) It could take 2 tubes. I used 1.
Thread Locker (Medium - Loc-tite & Permatex Blue)
M7-1 Tap
Acetone, Paper towels, Q-tips. (Ya, ya Alcohol works, Acetone just eats oil so much faster tho! Ventilated area for both)
Scraper (or something with a flat edge you can level with)
1) Clean the gasket mating surfaces with Acetone. I find you can push paper towels through the groove, but a few Q-tips make very short work of it & you can be sure you've cleaned it thoroughly.
2) Completely fill the groove with RTV & scrape it flat so that it's a flush surface.
3) Run your tap down the threads of the valve cover bolt holes. This will clean the threads up.
4) (After the RTV has cured - 24 hours) Apply your "normal" 1/4" bead of RTV as a normal application.
5) (IMMEDIATELY) Put valve cover on & bolt it down. Since we're no longer using a "light pressure to seal" gasket. Torque the valve covers down to say 18-20ft-lb.”
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