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'96 ES300 Auto Transmission Leak WHERE?

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Old 09-24-11, 11:08 AM
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DRACO A5OG
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Question '96 ES300 Auto Transmission Leak WHERE?

Hey Fellas!

I developed a severe leak where the trans meets the engine. I removed the fly wheel access cover and the flywheel was a bit wet with ATF.

Here is the apparent leaking area :



Here is the car turned on and LEAKING



That dark red drip line is actually the fluid flowing out in a stream like she is pissing

I think it is the Main Shaft Seal (Not sure what Toyota calls it), can someone PLEASE post a Part # or Exploded Diagram of the Main Shaft Seal/Gasket that keeps the ATF in the trans?

Any help/guidance is appreciated, I assume this will require pulling out the engine , right??? or can I split from the engine and pull the trans out the side enough to replace the main shaft seal???

Thanks in Advance!

Jim

Back Round Story. Last night, my wifey was about to drive home, she accidently placed it in 2nd then drove off. 5 minutes later she entered the freeway at 60-65 MPH, another 5 minutes passed, she realized her error, lifted off the gas and placed the shifter into Drive.

She got off the freeway 10 minutes later and existed without incedent. Stopped at a convenience store and started to drive off then the car hesitated and struggled. Then at every stop it started to hesitate for about 2 miles then right before she entered the garage, it sprung a leak.

Car was on, I checked the level not knowing there was a leak and it was in the middle when HOT. I topped it off and was going to test it then my wifey yelled. IT IS LEAKING?

Yeap, she is leaking, raised her and took the pics. There are no leaks from the top at any fitments either.

Old 09-24-11, 11:19 AM
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yeldogt
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Well if the main seal failed -- you have to remove the transmission. The engine does not need to be removed.

I wonder if it overheated?


How many miles? may want to replace the clutch pack while it is out
Old 09-24-11, 11:49 AM
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Thanks Yeldogt!

Oh cool, the trans is about 100-150 lb's thank goodness.

Clutch Pack,??? is that what it is called at Toyota/Lexus??? AT uses clutches?

Miles, unknown, it was a used one my wrench put in about 2.5 years ago. Last year a fluid flush and change.

Over heated? maybe.

2 days ago drove 100 miles round trip no issues.
Old 09-24-11, 01:42 PM
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That's the input shaft seal. Check the fluid for a burnt smell, if yes then you will likely be looking at damaged clutch packs, if the fluid is clear and not burnt then you are probably okay assuming no other issues.
Old 09-24-11, 03:24 PM
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No idea what happened -- but if it was not shifting correctly prior to the leak than you must have some internal issue. If the leak caused the fluid to fall and that lower fluid level caused the trans to act up ............. it may or may not have an internal problem.

A transmission can be damaged quickly -- I asked about the miles because if the transmission had a lot of miles on it it may make sense to do some work on it while it is out. "clutch pack" is my term -- generic for the friction material inside an AT.
Old 09-24-11, 08:32 PM
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Thank you Gentlemen!

Ok got the Seal at Toyota $16.00

Now where does one get the "clutch pack" the dealer had no idea what I was talking about :eek:

Well I will try the seal first, flush, if it does not fix it, then it may be time to look for another trans.

Jim
Old 09-24-11, 08:48 PM
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Tell the dealer you want a transmission hard kit, including clutches and steels. He'll know what you want. If you go far enough into the trans to replace the clutches then you'll need most of what's in a rebuild kit. I concur too, if the front pump seal went and caused the level to drop to the point the transmission malfunctioned then you might have some work ahead of you. Again, check the fluid for a burnt smell. Also, drop the pan and filter and look for bits and pieces.

Last edited by mdbrown; 09-24-11 at 08:52 PM.
Old 09-24-11, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mdbrown
Tell the dealer you want a transmission hard kit, including clutches and steels. He'll know what you want. If you go far enough into the trans to replace the clutches then you'll need most of what's in a rebuild kit. I concur too, if the front pump seal went and caused the level to drop to the point the transmission malfunctioned then you might have some work ahead of you. Again, check the fluid for a burnt smell. Also, drop the pan and filter and look for bits and pieces.
Thank you MDB!

Will do.

I was going to drop the pan and filter for the critters :

It did not smell that biurnt but will see, Boy it's going to be fun I just serviced my 911 trans, main shaft seal too
Old 09-24-11, 11:20 PM
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Oh Snap!

Saw a post with a link to the Factory Manual for 94-96 ES300 aka Camry: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=26449

Thanks SRVCM!
Old 10-05-11, 07:31 PM
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Update:

Well I dropped the trans twice and replaced with Toyota (leaked) then with a Lexus Torque Converter (T/C) seals and new refurbed T/C from DACCO, trans still leaks

Went to toyota dealer today to order new axle and T/C seals for the new used Trans I ordered. I shared with the parts guy about my dilema, he said there is an O-ring behind the trans cover plate. He stated if that O-ring fails, the T/C seal will not hold back the fluid enough and it will cause a leak. OK, that kinda makes sense.

So here is the plan, I will try one last time and replace the O-ring and yet another T/C seal. If it does not work then going to pull the trigger on a new used less than 60K A451E trans imported from Japan.

Question: I also replaced the T/C for a refurbed DACCO T/C but the strange thing is my T/C had a metal ring around the shaft but the refurbed one did not. Does anyone know if the metal snapped ring needs to be there?

Dealer stated they did not see a snap metal ring on the replacement T/C or calling for one. I will post a pic tomorrow when I drop the trans again.

Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 10-05-11 at 07:35 PM.
Old 10-05-11, 08:30 PM
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OK here are the two Torque Convertors:

From LevelTen.com claims has OEM T/C's, this one is exactly like my T/C with the metal snap on band



Here is the T/C from DACCO/Autozone:



Notice no BAND/RING
Old 10-07-11, 01:21 AM
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Well, it appears the metal band is a snap in bushing that belongs in the pump,according to LevelTen, the new T/C should not have a band, their photo is a sample photo and should not have the bushing attached to it. Apparently it siezed on the T/C tube and pulled out along with the T/C. Not good. For others that discover a leak and the bushing pulls out with the T/C, it's time for a another trans or pump

One thing LevelTen mentioned is, one must use Toyota WC ATF??? WTF I asked the dealer, there is no such thing, they only have Toyota WS ATF and it is not recommended for a 96 ES300. They only have Castrol ATF Dextron IV.

Dealer wants $500 for the pump. Salvage yard want $250 for a used good Camry trans A540E. Let me think...... Bought the used trans and swapped my new refurbed T/C from DACCO.

Crossing my fingers and toes that this will do the trick. Will update later.

over,

Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 10-07-11 at 01:27 AM.
Old 10-08-11, 08:38 PM
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Update: SUCCESS!

Replaced trans with one from a CAMRY A540E plus a new Torque Convertor (T/C), identical to the LEXUS A541E except the dip stick (which actually clipped better than the Lexus one), $250 + Cali Tax. All new seals, T/C and two axels, 3 crush washer and fill tube O-ring. Will be swapping out the trans gasker after 1000 miles with along with another drain ( trans/differential ) & fill, the Camry gasket is leaking, but not bad. All the bolts were loose, torqued them to 69in/lb.

WIAIT (While I am In There), I replaced the Engine Rear Crank Seal and Fill Tube O-RIng, Also re-torqued the pan 69in/lb. All leaks stopped

Here is the failed snap in ring from the ATF pump behind the trans main plate/brake:



For others, if this comes off with your Torque Convertor, you will need to replace the pump, might as well get a new good used trans like I did.



Hope this helps others.

BTW, removing the trans the 3rd time is alot easier. HINT: when removing the steering component, loosen the sway bar so you can pivot the bar up at the indent then loosen the rear mounts of the support bar about 1. inches to gain access to those 19MM nuts, it is impossible to gain acces to the driver side otherwise.

Jim

Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 10-10-11 at 03:37 PM.
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