1992 es 300 HELP
I just bought this tonight..seemed great on test drive, after i got on the highway...it seemed way sluggish, well i tried to call owner and wont answer and i bought as is so im prob f,d...hr ride home.. so i have a pretty big hill on way home and it wouldnt go over 50, down hill ran just fine... then when i got home its idling at 3000... I have no clue about cars at all...sounds lik emaybe vacuum leak for high idle>>>??? temp gauge didnt move, and tranny seemed to shift fine car just has no power at highway speed... i think i just wasted all my tax money on a jacked up car!! I had my 13 month old with me and my wife and 6 yr old so i couldn't go chase this guy down...ANY IDEAS???Thanx in advance
you have a great base to start with if you got a good price. repairs are easy and relatively inexpensive when you diy. have the codes checked and we will go from there.
also, be sure to check the rubberish intake tube that connects from your air box to the intake manifold. if it appears to have any cracking, it is most likely dry rotted(common issue) and causing your maf to misread. my car did it only under heavy acceleration or loads.
also, be sure to check the rubberish intake tube that connects from your air box to the intake manifold. if it appears to have any cracking, it is most likely dry rotted(common issue) and causing your maf to misread. my car did it only under heavy acceleration or loads.
I adjusted throttle linkageand seems to be running better... I did some more research and heres what i think happened... I forgot to mention she got hot on way home( overflow line was messed up) i fixed added water and n never got hot again..Maybe limp mode>??
Well since you have no car experience any fix we might suggest wont help you because there are many things have the same problem,start with MAF sensor/Clean the throttle body and check for vacuum leaks if you have CEL on take it to auto zone scan it and post the code here, use some fuel injector cleaner and drive the car for few days.check the exhaust smoke clear\white\black\smells bad
Seems to be running better... i have so far---- fixed the hose as mentioned above, installed radio, tore auto antenna apart and put up by hand, new battery terminals, fixed passenger inside door handle, tore off dangling fog lights, fixed passenger back door window switch( still wont work from the drivers door)... replaced 4 burned bulbs...
Ok lights.... all lights are working but left side blinks fast and right is normal...
I can't find anywhere with OBD1 in this small town, no check engine lite on, but wouldn't put it past the f*** i bought it from to have yanked the bulb... So that's next on the list!!!
Ok lights.... all lights are working but left side blinks fast and right is normal...
I can't find anywhere with OBD1 in this small town, no check engine lite on, but wouldn't put it past the f*** i bought it from to have yanked the bulb... So that's next on the list!!!
left side blinking fast indicates a blown bulb, the circuit is the wrong resistance now. also can be caused by using an led in place of a standard bulb.
there are (2) data link connectors, you may access either one to check your codes.
1. engine compartment, passenger side towards rear there is a rectangle data access.
2. drivers underside of dash, below and to the left of the steering there is a round data access connector.
Either Connector will work, look for terminals E1 and TE1. I use a bent paper clip but any conductive thing will work if it fits between those terminals. Turn your ignition key on and insert the paper clip, bridging those two terminals. your check engine light will begin to flash. it flashes fast, then skips and flashes more. the first set of flashes count your first digit and the second count the second. So, two flashes with a pause and two more would be a code 22.
there are (2) data link connectors, you may access either one to check your codes.
1. engine compartment, passenger side towards rear there is a rectangle data access.
2. drivers underside of dash, below and to the left of the steering there is a round data access connector.
Either Connector will work, look for terminals E1 and TE1. I use a bent paper clip but any conductive thing will work if it fits between those terminals. Turn your ignition key on and insert the paper clip, bridging those two terminals. your check engine light will begin to flash. it flashes fast, then skips and flashes more. the first set of flashes count your first digit and the second count the second. So, two flashes with a pause and two more would be a code 22.
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