Audacity

Adreano - What size fuses are required for the two amps you're putting in your car. I just reread your original post and I'm not sure what you're saying.... A 1200 watt rms amp certainly doesn't need a 120 amp fuse. I'm thinking a 50 amp fuse at most for your 1200 watt amp. Look at the manuals for the two amps you're going to install. Check what size fuse each amp requires-this is what counts.
Martin

Audacity

Funcrusher - It depends on the size of the fuse needed with the aftermarket amplifier. It also depends on wether or not you're using a capacitor and what size capacitor.

Audacity

Generally if you're running 1000 watts rms or more without a GOOD capacitor you'll need a high output alternator. The HO alternator is a better solution than the capacitor.
P.S. REAL rms is what I'm talking about. You have to look at the amplifier AND driver (speaker) specs very closely to determine REAL rms. You must know the drivers' (speakers') resistance (1 ohm, 3 ohms, 4 ohms etc..) AND how many watts rms the amp delivers to a driver with that SPECIFIC resistance. Amplifier manufacturers all do it different. For example: My JL 1000/1 amp produces 1000 watts rms to a sub with a resistance rating of 1,2,or 3 ohms. Most amps don't do that. Most amps that produce 1000 watts rms to a 1 ohm driver will only produce a few hundred watts rms to a driver with a 3 ohm resistance rating. Get it?
Martin

adreano17

that must have been years ago, they gave me a quote for $400+ thats out, where do you stand on hi-ampsalternators. The guy said they are bad, but i have not seen any bad results, and people are satisfied with them.

1 UP for the alt, i agree 100% once real power is required. My thing is, i dont care how much battery Ah there is, if the alt isnt keeping up with power demand, the batt will not hold its charge continuously, and will slowly decrease in capacity, and this is just logically speaking.
it depends, based off of what you are running, a stock alt will eventually NOT DO. Like me, i have stock alt, and no deep cycle batt, and if my bass is cranking high, my voltage dips, and stereo stops working (dips below lowest operable volume)






I encourage everyone to view this youtube video on relation of Alternators, Batteries, and Capacitors. It is excellent imo http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...IV5KGw&cad=rja it will definitely clear up some arguments, and perspectives.

adreano17

i am positive my amp running my subs is 120A (60x2) straight from the manual. my RF 800a4 calls for 80A, but i am not bridging, so it will only require 40A

also, i had a glass 60A anl fuse from my previous install, running that amp, burned that fuse UP, and warped my fuse holder from current pull. Amprage = (watts/volts)

Audacity

What amp and subs are you running Adreano? How many subs? What resistance load (ohms) is the amp seeing - how are the subs wired?

adreano17

2 12 cvr kickers, wired 2 ohm, parallel to a 2ch zeus hifonics 1300 amp.

Audacity

Sorry Adreano - my mistake. I was wrong about only needing a 50 amp fuse. I guess the bottom line for you is where to get an alternator....Sorry I was so far off with my estimate for Ohio Generators, but they do have a great reputation. Their alternators will always do better than claimed. I'm not familiar enough with any other alternator manufacturers to recommend them. It may be a case of "you get what you pay for". O.G.has been in business a long time-I can't imagine they'd be able to stay in business if their product was overpriced.
How much is it going to cost you to do the big 3 and get a better battery? I know you don't want to hear it, but you may want to consider the $400 for a good alternator...
Martin

P.S. This is one of the best places to learn anything you want to know about car audio and they may be able to steer you towards a less expensive alternator. TONS of experience among the members: http://audioforum.termpro.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

funcrusher

I would go out and get a good alternator but its money. I'm already spending so much on my system and headrests and everything. If I'm having issues after the big 3 and a battery, ill consider a new one

Pyroibw

if thats all your running, you in no way need a upgraded alt. for the $300 and up for a alt you can get a good battery and do the big 3. the big 3 and a battery would only cost like $200-$250.

adreano17

my first quote said i was going to eventually be running mids = 400W

and the battery will eventually get drained without the alternator recharging it like how it should...

Audacity

You'll know as soon as you hit a good bass note at night whether you'll need an alternator upgrade. If the lights dim a H.O. alternator is what you'll want.
A good capacitor would also solve the problem, but the HO alternator is the better choice. A 5 fared Alumipro capacitor would work. A 10 fared Stinger cap. would also work. I used a 5 fared Alumipro under very similar circumstances for a couple years without upgrading the alternator. It solved all problems and I never had a problem with it. People will probably jump in and say that a cap. does nothing, but they're wrong. As I stated I used one for years under very similar circumstances and it solved all my problems. The 5 fared Alumipro goes for about $220 and the 10 fared Stinger goes for about $250.
A capacitor just stores energy-it doesn't produce it. The cap. has the ability to release and store energy very quickly. When you hit a big bass note the capacitor releases energy to the amp immediately and then recharges very quickly.

Here's a link: Click on "The C.A.P." under "Products".
http://www.alumapro.com/homepage.htm

trickedout

Look guys, a capacitor, is just a sorry excuse for a battery. Don't put all that system in your car if you are not going to do it right. This is stuff is definitly not cheap. 2nd of all, don't order a alternator off ebay. BIG RIP OFF! I suggest going to a local shop that rebuilds alternators and that will give you a good warranty and good price. I use a guy near me so if worst comes to worst and the alternator fails you can take it back, but I have never had not one fail from him. If you hitting long bass notes with your system, then you will need a better battery. period. If you use those cheap capacitors and a H.O. alternator, when your lows hit for a while, it will fry your fuse. A customer of mine had the same problem on a impala. Your alternator can only do so much. Remember that your power in your vehicle comes from your alternator, transfers to your battery, and then to your system. If you add a capacitor, thats just another channel that your power has to go through to get to your amps, which is where we want it in the first place. The sole purpose of a capacitor, no matter if it is 1 farad, or a 50 farad hybrid, is to hold power so when the amps hit, it won't come directly off the battery and will compensate in the case that your system might have shut your vehicle off. If this is something that you are worried about, I suggest getting a 2nd battery like Kinetik or shuriken. They are very durable and you can mount them in your trunk out of sight and probably the best in the business. I highly doubt that you are running this much power though. I ran (2) 13W7 off a Kicker 1000.1 in a Tahoe, and despite that its a truck, it didn't need a 2nd battery. But fbefore you go and change all this stuff and start talking real money, what gauge wires are you running? Run 0 gauge all the way. Also, make sure you upgrade the power wire from your alternator to your battery, so that the power will transfer more quickly. Don't jepordise running your system with a stock battery and alternator. It can burn up your starting wires and when you have a lot of A/V equipment, auto shops charge a lot of money to even begin to figure out what your problem is. I had this issue in my mustang and I wish that on nobody. (about 2k worth of repair bills once its all said and done)

Audacity

I basically agree with trickedout. Everything I've been saying is based on adreano17 doing the big 3 and upgrading the battery FIRST. You won't need the additional battery adreano17 if you do the big 3, upgraded battery, and go with a good HO alternator. If you do these you'll be all set to add the second amp you spoke of. Since $ is a big concern do the big 3 (with 0 gauge) and get a GOOD battery. You MAY be OK with that - if not it'll be time to look at a HO alternator. I like trickedout's recommendation about going to a local alternator shop - that may save you some $.

adreano17

i agree with the capacitor, i already have a 2 farad cap, and no capacitor will help with everything. if anything, when it is all set and done, i will continue to use to stiffen attenuated signal (main purpose). but i see you are in MD, what does your local shop charge? and what is your alt charging at for that price, and do you have any audio in your lexus now? i originally planned on getting the big 3, (can get 50 ft for $60, good price) and a XS D1200, or higher, but i still think, i do in fact need an alternator still.