What controls how fast the turn signal?
01-29-08, 08:24 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Georgia
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What controls how fast the turn signal?
Just like the topic... what determines how fast the turn signal/blinker goes off and on???
My problem is, when I indicate right, it blinks very fast... about every half second... when turning left, it indicates as normall... very moderate, monotone pace... So again, my question is, what determines the speed of the turn signal? is it the module on the steering column? or is it the cpu?
My problem is, when I indicate right, it blinks very fast... about every half second... when turning left, it indicates as normall... very moderate, monotone pace... So again, my question is, what determines the speed of the turn signal? is it the module on the steering column? or is it the cpu?
02-01-08, 02:28 PM
#5
Lexus Champion
Just like the topic... what determines how fast the turn signal/blinker goes off and on???
My problem is, when I indicate right, it blinks very fast... about every half second... when turning left, it indicates as normall... very moderate, monotone pace... So again, my question is, what determines the speed of the turn signal? is it the module on the steering column? or is it the cpu?
My problem is, when I indicate right, it blinks very fast... about every half second... when turning left, it indicates as normall... very moderate, monotone pace... So again, my question is, what determines the speed of the turn signal? is it the module on the steering column? or is it the cpu?
02-01-08, 03:23 PM
#6
Lexus Test Driver
The flasher on/off frequency is determined by the electrical resistance in the circuit. If this resistance is more than designed, the flasher will blink slower. A burned out bulb causes a lower resistance, therefore the flasher will blink faster. Also, sometimes an added resistance is caused by oxidation in the bulb sockets. Make sure the proper type bulbs are used in all the sockets.
Actually, You have that backwards. In the case of a burnt out bulb, the resistance is increased, Thus causing the other light to blink faster. The Flasher is basically a thermal relay, When it is engaged, the resistance causes heat, with bends the contact in the relay, thus turning off the light, once it cools down, it bends back to close the circuit and turn the light on. This happens over and over causing the light to blink.
02-01-08, 06:54 PM
#7
Lexus Champion
Actually, You have that backwards. In the case of a burnt out bulb, the resistance is increased, Thus causing the other light to blink faster. The Flasher is basically a thermal relay, When it is engaged, the resistance causes heat, with bends the contact in the relay, thus turning off the light, once it cools down, it bends back to close the circuit and turn the light on. This happens over and over causing the light to blink.
Try taking a bulb out and you'll see the flasher now works at a much faster speed.
Trending Topics
02-02-08, 01:23 PM
#8
Intermediate
No, JSM1284 is correct. When you have a burnt out bulb, you have increased resistance. That part of the parallel circut is 'open' because the filament is gone (high resistance) which causes other bulb to get all of the power. Because of this, the remaining circut has more current in it, thus causing the thermal relay to work faster since it heats up faster.
The bulb does have resistance, but you have confused the way it goes. If you were to jump the wires across the terminals of the bulb so that you bypass the bulb, the light will go out and you have less resistance in that circut. Since the bulb is burnt out, it has created an open in the circut, which means high resistance. Its essentially just the same as removing the bulb from the circut all together. You could remove the bulb in your ES350 and try your turn signals and you will get the same effect.
Open = high resistance.
Short = Low resistance.
Its been awhile, I had to think about that one.
The bulb does have resistance, but you have confused the way it goes. If you were to jump the wires across the terminals of the bulb so that you bypass the bulb, the light will go out and you have less resistance in that circut. Since the bulb is burnt out, it has created an open in the circut, which means high resistance. Its essentially just the same as removing the bulb from the circut all together. You could remove the bulb in your ES350 and try your turn signals and you will get the same effect.
Open = high resistance.
Short = Low resistance.
Its been awhile, I had to think about that one.
Last edited by onepointon; 02-02-08 at 01:29 PM.
02-02-08, 07:34 PM
#12
It may in fact be a bad bulb causing the rapid blinking, but this same issue has been discussed numerous times in this forum; and, more often than not, the problem has proven to be corrosion in the bulb socket and not a bad bulb.
I have gone through this problem several times with my 94 ES. I have replaced bulbs, and the fast blinking continued. The solution was to remove the front bulb holders, clean the contact points on the perimeter of the bulb socket (sandpaper, perhaps), clean the contact points on the car body that the bulb socket fits into, and replace the bulb socket. This has always fixed the problem.
When you remove the bulb socket from the car body, you will note that the connection to the car's electrical system is a printed circuit. I think this is where the problem lies. This circuit is open to moisture and dirt. Corrosion eventually forms and changes the resistance in the circuit.
This corrosion problem only happens in the front. The rear bulbs are connected with wired bulbholders.
I have gone through this problem several times with my 94 ES. I have replaced bulbs, and the fast blinking continued. The solution was to remove the front bulb holders, clean the contact points on the perimeter of the bulb socket (sandpaper, perhaps), clean the contact points on the car body that the bulb socket fits into, and replace the bulb socket. This has always fixed the problem.
When you remove the bulb socket from the car body, you will note that the connection to the car's electrical system is a printed circuit. I think this is where the problem lies. This circuit is open to moisture and dirt. Corrosion eventually forms and changes the resistance in the circuit.
This corrosion problem only happens in the front. The rear bulbs are connected with wired bulbholders.
02-02-08, 08:26 PM
#13
Lexus Champion
CUMan is definetely right, my drivers side headlight assmebly had to be removed by me 10 times until magically it was just right and it would work proper.it would either be corener light ok or the blinker would be ok, it took a magic touch to make them both work when all was reassembled.
thats why its not right to just say light bulb when really its the circuit-- could be light relay or something in between, cu man you are right on, im glad im not saying this by myself since i get such fierce argument from people
i didn't know it was common on these cars though! that makes me feel better : >
thats why its not right to just say light bulb when really its the circuit-- could be light relay or something in between, cu man you are right on, im glad im not saying this by myself since i get such fierce argument from people
i didn't know it was common on these cars though! that makes me feel better : >
02-03-08, 10:03 AM
#14
Lexus Champion
Actually, You have that backwards. In the case of a burnt out bulb, the resistance is increased, Thus causing the other light to blink faster. The Flasher is basically a thermal relay, When it is engaged, the resistance causes heat, with bends the contact in the relay, thus turning off the light, once it cools down, it bends back to close the circuit and turn the light on. This happens over and over causing the light to blink.
I assumed that this was a series circuit.
